Many homeowners spend painstakingly long hours perfecting their lawn and landscaping. To much shock, they may wake up one morning to find the property in disarray— the ground having been clearly dug into in multiple spots. Just what caused all of this damage? The culprit you may not expect, skunks!
example of skunk damage in woods
Why Skunks Dig in the Ground
Skunks typically dig in search of food or shelter. Where there are huge chunks of grass that seem to be pulled right out of the earth, the skunks have likely been harvesting grubs that lie beneath the surface. They pull the grass to get to grubs found just below the first layer of soil. A single skunk can cause significant property damage, but an entire family of skunks ransacking for grubs can rack up quite the landscaping bill.
Other Issues
Skunks damage lawns and damage the home, trying to find a place to burrow. Obviously, they are most notorious for spraying household pets, but skunks can also carry diseases and bite if trapped. This is especially true if their first defense mechanism, spraying, don’t allow them to escape. Bites and droppings in the yard can cause diseases, which can then spread to your family.
How to Tell if Skunks are the Culprit
It’s important to note that skunks aren’t the only culprits of lawn damage, so how can you tell if they are the problem? Spotting a skunk would obviously tell you this, but if the homeowner doesn’t see the skunk in their yard, they must look for other tell-tale signs. The stench of nearby skunk spray would fall under this category. But what if you’re 0/2 for skunk signs? If there are visible tracks, comparing them to skunk tracks can help you properly identify them. Your best bet is to contact a licensed pest control specialist for proper identification and trapping.
Removing Skunks from the Yard
Those who have had their property damaged by skunks will likely want to know how to prevent it from happening again. One of the most sure-fire ways to deter skunks is by using light. Skunks are nocturnal, so a motion-activated floodlight may work to scare them away. Spraying predator urine around the property is also said to discourage skunks from the area. However, even the most valiant of DIY eradication efforts often come up shorthanded. Calling a professional is most often the last resort when it really should be first. Trapping or coming into physical contact with the skunk must be done by a professional. This ensures they are properly taken care of. In terms of relocation, it must be done by a professional as well. In some states, it is illegal for a homeowner to trap and release wildlife on their own.
Keep Skunks Out of the Yard
Once the skunks have been eradicated, the homeowner may want to take preventative measures to ensure the skunks will not return and further damage their property. The most effective way to do this is by making sure the yard is correctly cared for so you won’t find any grubs under the grass. Another way is to consider fencing off parts or all of the yard. This has the benefit of keeping all sorts of other animals off of the property as well.
Despite how much time and care you put into your lawn and landscaping, skunks can (and will) wreck it if grubs are available. They’ll often return and bring friends. If you’ve noticed damage to your lawn and you suspect it is because of skunks, contact Hogarth’s Pest Control & Wildlife Removal to help you solve this issue once and for all.
We haven’t talked about mosquitos for some time. This is kind of ironic, considering mosquito treatments have always been one of our main ticket items. We’ve braved the storms of West Nile and Zika, laying your fears to rest. But lately, we hardly ever discuss mosquitos with you or even post about them at all. Spring is mightily attempting to conquer winter here in Northern Michigan, which means lots of scenic walks through the forest, as pictured.
What appears to be a picturesque scene to the untrained eye is nothing but a breeding ground in the eyes of a pest control technician. Something you may not know about mosquitos is how they breed. Mosquitos breed in any body of standing water; this includes, but is not limited to:
Flower pots.
Bogs, marshes, and ponds
Puddles.
Birdbaths.
Rainwater barrels.
Empty tires or debris – these can fill up with rainwater.
Ditches.
Untended yards.
Many customers call with one goal in mind: the eradication and prevention of a mosquito problem in the yard. We treat mosquitos a few ways, whatever is best for the situation and customer. However, it is important to rid your yard of any listed above (that you’re able to) in order for treatments to be most effective. To prevent the buzz of unpleasant swarms of mosquitoes around your home, you must understand one simple rule about their breeding and life cycle. The more you disrupt their breeding cycle, the fewer mosquitoes will be around to bite and annoy you. To control mosquitoes on your property, it’s important to know how they reproduce and systematically destroy potential breeding sites near your home. If there are no satisfactory places to lay eggs, the mosquitoes must look elsewhere, meaning you should see fewer of the insects around your home.
Mosquito Breeding Cycle
Each mosquito species has different breeding habits, but most need to lay their eggs near water – usually in still water. Female mosquitoes produce 100-300 eggs at one time, and the eggs typically hatch into mosquito larvae within 48 hours. For about a week, the larva transforms into a pupa, finally emerging as an adult mosquito in about two days. Within two weeks, you have an entirely new generation of mosquitoes ready to begin the cycle again.
On the bright side, mosquitos do not breed year-round. They only become active and produce when temperatures steadily stay 50° or above. Depending on the species, temperatures less than this kills them or drives them into hibernation. For most of the US states, mosquitoes are only a concern in the warm summer months. If you live somewhere with high temperatures year-round, or even early springs, you may experience a long mosquito season.
How to Eliminate Breeding Grounds
Here are several ways you can eliminate places for mosquitoes to lay their eggs:
Good pond pest control. If you have a pond or a body of water on your property, odds are you are unable to move it. You can, however, make it a less desirable mosquito haven by adding mosquito fish. One fish can eat more than 200 mosquito larvae in just one hour! Another option is to introduce bacteria known as BTI (Bacillus thuringiensis) to kill any larvae in your pond.
Cover rainwater barrels. Keep your rainwater barrels covered with a (very fine) mesh fabric to prevent mosquitoes from getting through. You can also keep the barrel completely covered when rain isn’t forecasted as a more permanent measure. If covering isn’t an option, empty your barrels within 24 hours of rain. This is before larvae will have a chance to hatch.
Pump your birdbath. Birdbaths are most often filled with still water— but you can introduce a small pump to keep the water flowing. If, for some reason, this keeps the birds away (it shouldn’t), it truly is best to schedule the daily replacement of the water. It sounds extreme, but it will keep mosquitoes from successfully breeding.
Eliminate debris on your property. Frequent cleanup of empty containers or surfaces where still water can collect eliminates potential breeding grounds. Regular lawn maintenance can also mean trimming back other plant life so mosquitoes can’t hide.
Take a good look at the garden. Flowerpots, garden ornaments, and even paving stones often collect water and become a mosquito breeding ground. Encourage good drainage for potted plants. This will not only improve the health of your plants but also prevents mosquitoes. For garden ornaments, look for hollow pieces with small drilled holes to allow water to drain away.
In the United States, Easter Sunday celebrations often go hand-in-hand with the Easter Bunny. Young children leave their baskets to see what kinds of special fillers the mythical creature has left. Like Santa Claus as the figurehead of Christmas, the elusive figure has no apparent connections to the post-Lenten holy day. So why then has the Easter Bunny become so prevalently symbolic in our modern-day celebrations?
How is a bunny related to Easter?
Stories say that the Easter Bunny’s origins stem from early pagan celebrations, namely, the vernal equinox. Pagans would celebrate the renewal of life, as well as the goddess of dawn and fertility, each spring. They would often represent this goddess, Eostre, by an egg or the hare. As Christianity spread its roots throughout Europe, celebrations around the vernal equinox may have merged with the observance of Christ’s resurrection. This is because they both occur around the same time each year. Over time, missionaries were said to have blended pagan traditions with Christian holidays to make transitions smoother. It’s a possibility that the resurrection of Christ and the celebrations of Eostre were united.
The earliest evidence of a more recognizable Easter Bunny dates back to the seventeenth century as it is first mentioned in German writings. This bunny, called “Oschter Haws” or in English, Easter hare, would lay a nest of colorful eggs for good children.
Is the Easter bunny real?
There is no single bunny that once was the iconic hare; history says the legendary egg-laying rabbit came to America by German immigrants in the 1700s. Children would make nests for the Oschter Haws to leave behind its eggs. As immigration increased, the tradition spread into the U.S., where the hare’s gifts eventually became chocolates and candies, and the nests became baskets. Chocolate bunnies also originated in Germany, where they began making pastries for the fabled hare in the 1800s.
Why not the Easter Chicken?
The hare and the egg became one with the spring holiday because of roots in pagan faith representing rebirth and fertility. It seems more possible that these two images merged into the egg-laying rabbit of German folklore instead of a far more practical, and actually egg-laying, chicken.
Regardless of who’s laying the eggs, eggs are the main Easter image that has come to represent Jesus’s resurrection. A possible reason for actually decorating eggs is to prepping them for consumption on Easter morning once Lenten fasting is over.
Whether it was pagan or Christian associations with the rabbit that ultimately influenced the Germans, the world may never know. But one thing is sure: The Easter Bunny will continue to bring joy and excitement to children across the country every Easter Sunday.
Learn how to keep the neighborhood rabbit out of your garden this spring with these tips.
Why We Keep Rabbits Out
Anyone who tills soil regards the rabbit as more than a cute addition to the carrot patch. This long-eared mammal possesses a voracious appetite for various fresh vegetation— perennials, annuals, woody plants, vegetables, and fruit. The menu of rabbit favorites is so ridiculously long it’s easier to list the foods they don’t enjoy.
As if that isn’t enough, rabbits also reproduce at excessively high rates, hence the phrase “multiplying like rabbits”. This is why allowing them to hang around may quickly become a total garden infestation and destruction. Their numbers skyrocket at three litters of six babies each per year in the north and up to as many as six litters of three babies each year in the south. In the north, the first litter appears in March but is year-round elsewhere. Their gestation period is a mere 29 days.
Your backyard bunny’s main concern is to eat without being eaten, which is a difficult task given that more than two dozen predatory species relish rabbits. Because of this, nibbling your marigolds is not a carefree picnic but, in fact, a potentially life-threatening mission. However, if the neighborhood Peter Cottontail can squeeze through a hole in your garden fence, it will be able to munch safely.
How to Prevent Rabbits
The most effective way to keep rabbits out of the garden is to start using the plants they don’t like early in the spring and then be consistent throughout the growing season.
First and foremost, it’s best to keep rabbits from crossing into the garden, to begin with. Many historical remedies rely on spreading various substances around the garden’s perimeter, i.e., human hair, dried blood, or dried blood meal. If you sprinkle dried blood on the soil around all your plants as early in the season as you can, and repeat after heavy rain. Note: If you have dogs, it’s probably best to avoid this method because they will likely be attracted to the scent and potentially dig up your garden.
Don’t solely rely on repellents. The most effective way of keeping out rabbits is chicken wire fencing. Install a fence that is 4 feet high and bury it 6 inches deep. Bend the fence’s top foot away from the garden similarly to a security fence so that they are unable to climb or jump over it. For fresh bulbs, try securing a cage or dome of chicken wire over the beds.
Rabbits prefer to not leave their shelters, so if you reduce the possible rabbit homes around your yard this will help deter them. Brushing away piles of brush and leaves, and filling in abandoned burrows are also means of prevention. Hopefully, if a rabbit doesn’t have a place to live, it won’t stay long. Rabbits will also breed much more efficiently if they have a suitable habitat available—all the more reason to provide nothing!
What Do Rabbits Dislike?
According to rabbit experts, rabbits have plant preferences based on taste, nutritional value, the presence of poison or prickles, and ease of availability. Their food tastes can also vary by season and even region, so not all plants work for all rabbit species. Do your research, and then tend plants that your local rabbits don’t find very tasty.
Rabbits tend to avoid a few of the same plants as Japanese beetles and deer.
If you’d like to control all these critters, choose plants such as:
Lilac bushes
Daffodils
Lavender
Marigolds
Forsythia
Snapdragons
Zinnias
These will likely help to reduce your rabbit population. Obviously, these are not is not a guaranteed solution, as hungry rabbits will eat almost anything. However, filling your garden with these plants might make your garden less appetizing than another one.
If all else fails, calling a wildlife professional at Hogarth’s Pest Control is always a great option. We are skilled in trapping and relocating sometimes required for rabbit control. If you are experiencing an unrelenting issue with rabbits in your garden this spring, don’t hesitate to reach out today!
As spring breakers flock eagerly to the Sunshine State, another swarm gets ready to descend upon us all…pests! As the weather warms up, the bugs start coming back in full force. As Michiganders, it’s unlikely that we know what kinds of pests to expect in a different state. Pests are often an afterthought when packing for a vacation. But, as always, knowledge is power, so the more you know, the better!
What kind of bugs can you expect during springtime in Florida? Icky palmetto bugs, mosquitos, stinging insects, and more are all ready to join the party. Don’t let that stop you from your plans though.
Here are the top 5 destinations you might find these spring break pests lurking.
1. Kitchens and bathrooms
The cooler weather of the Floridian winter was a nice break, especially when it came to being free of encounters of the bug kind. Palmetto bugs and roaches are back on the scene though, and your kitchen and bathroom are their favorite place to throw down. In search of moist conditions and food, they might mistake your screams for the kind of reveling partiers.
2. Anywhere there’s wood
Spring is a time for termites too, and Florida is rather prone to them. Anywhere you have exposed wood, watch for any termite damage.
3. Your lawn
There’s something so glorious about having a nice, green lawn in Florida. Until the chinch bugs come for a spring break party, leaving dead grass patches in their wake.
4. In your home
Did someone say, “Party?” If it’s a spring break party with Florida carpenter ants, we’ll be there. And we’ll bring plenty of refreshments to ensure these spring breakers get back out of town. They love wood damaged by termites. Chances are if you’ve got a termite party, these guys have probably turned up too.
5. Buzzing around your yard
There are two types of spring break pests that come to call at this time of year – mosquitos and other stinging insects like wasps, bees, and yellow jackets. It was so peaceful in your yard just weeks ago, but now you can’t enjoy your coffee without hearing buzzing in your ear, or worse, being chased back indoors by one of the more aggressive varieties.
No matter where you travel, pests are to be expected. Whether they are different or the same as those we have in our home states, knowing how to avoid potential run-ins with these pests will make all the difference!
Beavers are the largest yet most elusive rodent species in Michigan. Even though these mammals often top the scales at more than 50 lbs, it’s quite challenging to scope them out because of their mostly nocturnal and semi-aquatic tendencies. They are hands down the best dam builders in the state (HAHA). In late autumn, beavers prepare for winter by improving their dams, adding extra sticks and mud to their lodges; but also, and most importantly, beavers stock their underwater pantries. Wildlife biologists like to call the winter food cache a ‘Beaver Freezer.’ Rarely does a human look inside these underwater sites; as ice freezes, it quickly becomes opaque, snow blocks any view.
What are food caches?
Each fall, beavers that live in cold areas (including all of Michigan) construct various Beaver Freezers in relatively deep waters close to their lodge or just a short swim away under the ice. Each Beaver Freezer is an accumulation of tree branches and sustains the family throughout the winter months. As the days of autumn wane, the diligent beavers fell and gnaw tree limbs and saplings into short, manageable lengths, dragging them to the lakeshore. In doing so, they move along canals they’ve created to keep exposure to predators at a minimum. Once back in the lake, the beavers jab one end of a limb into the muddy floor to secure it in place. After few days of this, these winter caches look like miniature underwater forests.
What do beavers eat?
When a beaver becomes hungry, they can flip down into one of the lodge openings beneath the ice and swim to their underwater Beaver Freezer. The beavers then drag the day’s meal into the lodge’s feeding chamber, strip off and eat the bark and inner cambium layers where the nutrients are, and discard the rest. This method is not too far removed from humans eating corn on the cob. This winter, the remains of some early woody meals floated up to the bottom of the clear ice and can be seen next to trapped air bubbles exposing a secret of the beaver freezer.
When spring approaches, or if the ice melts early, the adult beavers emerge from their dark aquatic world to feed on fresh woody stems and emergent vegetation along the shore. During these forays, they are vulnerable to wolves and cougars in the north country of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. In the Lower Peninsula, they draw the attention of coyotes. But now, as winter settles in, the beavers are safe and secure in their snow-capped lodges.
As mentioned previously, beavers fell and gnaw trees surrounding bodies of water. Oftentimes these trees happen to be on property under the ownership of humans. Humans do not take kindly to flooded property or babbling brooks running dry. In these cases, property owners need to seek professionals’ aid to assist in curbing the beaver problem. Not only is Hogarth’s Pest Control and Wildlife Removal skilled in beaver trapping and removal— we rather enjoy it! Please do not hesitate to reach out to us if you require assistance. We are happy to help!
The day is February 2, 1887. Groundhog Day, a holiday featuring a rodent meteorologist, is celebrated for the first time at Gobbler’s Knob in Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania. The legend goes, if a groundhog comes out of its hole and sees its shadow, it gets scared, running back into its burrow; this means six more weeks of winter weather. No shadow, on the other hand, means spring is right around the corner.
Groundhog Day has roots in the ancient Christian tradition of Candlemas. Candlemas is a day where clergy members would bless and then distribute candles needed for the winter. Each candle represents the long and cold winter. Germans expanded upon this concept by selecting their own mammal meteorologist, the hedgehog, to predict their weather. Once in America, German settlers in Pennsylvania carried on the tradition, although they switched from hedgehogs to groundhogs, which were plentiful.
What is a Groundhog?
Groundhogs are also referred to as woodchucks, whistle-pigs, or land-beavers. The term whistle-pig comes from the fact that, when alarmed, a groundhog emits a high-pitched whistle as a warning to the rest of its colony. The name woodchuck has nothing to do with wood. Or chucking. It comes from the Algonquian name for the critters, wuchak. These rodents typically weigh 12 to 15 pounds and live six to eight years. Their diet consists of vegetables and fruits. Groundhogs whistle when afraid or looking for a mate, and are some know them as whistle pigs. They can also climb trees and swim.
Groundhogs begin to hibernate as fall comes to an end; their body temperatures drop significantly during this time. Their heartbeats slow from around eighty to approximately five beats per minute, and they typically lose up to 30% of their body mass. Male groundhogs emerge from their burrows in February to look for a mate (not to predict the weather) before going back underground. They leave hibernation for the season by March.
In 1887, and this is no lie, a groundhog hunting newspaper editor from Punxsutawney, PA writes that Phil, the honorary Punxsutawney groundhog, was America’s only true weather-forecasting groundhog. The line of groundhogs that go by Phil are easily America’s most famous groundhogs; however, other places across North America have their own weather-predicters, from Staten Island Chuck to Birmingham Bill.
Bill Murray’s 1993 film movie Groundhog Day popularized the usage of the term “groundhog day” as one that is repeated over and over. Today, tens of thousands of people converge on Gobbler’s Knob in Punxsutawney each February 2 to witness Phil’s prediction. The Punxsutawney Groundhog Club hosts a three-day celebration featuring entertainment and activities.
Happy Groundhog Day, fine folks! Today is when we look towards a rodent to find out how much more winter we’ll have to endure.
Legend states the groundhog looks out of its burrow today to see if it has a shadow. If it is sunny enough for a shadow, the groundhog will return to the comfort of the den, and winter goes on an additional six weeks.
In honor of the holiday, we’ve rounded up seven tidbits about groundhogs that are likely to be new to you. One for each additional week of winter that’s been forecasted, plus one extra for good measure
1. How much wood?
Groundhogs are also called whistle-pigs, land-beavers, and more commonly, the woodchuck. The nickname ‘whistle-pig’ comes from the fact that, when frightened, a groundhog emits a high-pitched whistle warning to the rest of the lot. The term ‘woodchuck’ has nothing to do with wood. Or chucking. It comes from the Algonquian name, wuchak.
2. Home on the range
Both males and females occupy the same territories generationally. There is minimal overlap between home ranges for female woodchucks except for the late spring and early summer months, as females generally try to expand territories. During this time, ranges may overlap by as much as 10%. Males also have territories that do not overlap, though any male territory usually coincides with between one and three adult female territories.
3. Bundles of joy!
After being born in April, young stick around their home range for only about two or three months. After this, they leave mom’s burrow and disperse. However, at least thirty-five percent of females stick around longer than that, leaving home just after their first birthdays, right before a new litter.
4. Family tradition
Typically, groundhog family groups consist of one male and two females, each toting a litter from the previous breeding season (usually consisting of all females) and their current young. Interactions within a female’s group are friendly for the most part. However, interactions between female groups, even when the same male shares those groups, are rare and aggressive. Even though Papa Woodchuck doesn’t live at home, he visits each of his females and their litter daily.
5. Models of good health
Strangely enough, the groundhog happens to be a good animal for the study of hepatitis B-related liver cancer. Suppose a woodchuck is infected with the hepatitis B virus. In that case, the animal always develops liver cancer, making them integral for the study of both hepatitis b and liver cancer.
6. Looking up
Groundhogs can, in fact, climb trees, though they spend most of their time on and under the ground.
7. Kiss Kiss
Groundhogs greet each other with their own version of the Eskimo kiss: a groundhog approaches another and touches their nose to the mouth of the second groundhog. Or, as scientists call it, they make “naso-oral contact.”
It’s winter in Michigan, the temperatures have plummeted, and all bugs and pests are long gone…right?
WRONG!
Let us lay some facts on you.
1) rodents are even more active in the winter
Mice, rats, and other small rodents seek to enter your home even more desperately during the frigid winter.
If you fail to seal all potential entry points into your home properly, these pests will most assuredly find their way in. From there, they will happily set up residence. If they gain access, it can be difficult to find all their hiding places in every nook and cranny in your home.
2) bugs don’t just die
While you probably aren’t seeing as many pests scurrying about your home throughout the winter, they’re still very much nearby. Though they go unseen, that is because they are likely hibernating in some way. It may be freezing outside, but insects and rodents are quite literally snug as a bug in your 65°+ house; unfortunately, even the attics and spaces between walls aren’t cold enough to kill off most critters.
Treat all entry points: windows, doors, vents, and crawlspaces to keep the pests out. It’s important to take precautions and pay attention during each season, so you can always be protected against these unwanted guests.
Proper exclusion and sealing up any noticeable cracks or gaps help prevent all of these pests. So many pest problems can be avoided with proactive control!
You want your home to be a sanctuary for you and your family during the winter months. Make sure you’re not also extending that luxury to unwanted pests!
It’s a beautiful winter day, and the sunlight is gleaming on the snow. Taking in the view and feeling the warmth of the sun on your face, your attention is drawn to an all-too-familiar sound buzzes by your ear. That’s right— buzzes. There is snow on the ground, but sure enough, there is a fly INSIDE of your house. Eager to get outside, it hurls its large sluggish body against the window. This is not your classic housefly, it’s important to note, but rather a more elusive species. The unwanted houseguest almost went unnoticed. They’re probably around even if you can’t see them!
How do flies survive during winter?
There are too many common fly species to count, and they handle winter in all kinds of ways. Flies associated with filth such as blowflies, fruit flies, and phorid flies tend to live in and around garbage all year. They nestle into the trash in sheltered areas and hunker down to preserve heat during the winter.
Other flies, like face and cluster flies, lay eggs in warm areas during the fall. The flies laying the eggs die off, but their offspring hatch throughout winter. Once they are inside, they continue reproducing— a cycle of laying eggs and hatching. To survive the cooler temperatures and decline in food sources, cluster flies enter the state of diapause to preserve energy and body heat.
What are the flies inside my home?
This winter, the flies most likely to bother you in your home are cluster flies. This species is ubiquitous in Michigan, even during winter. Cluster flies are easy to distinguish as they are big, stocky flies with dark coloration.
Cluster flies are common around attics, basements, and doors/windows. They seek secluded places near a heat source where they can pack together and enter a state of rest called diapause. They occasionally emerge on warm days to regain heat and energy. They will often appear slow-flying and sluggish, “drunk” if you will.
How do these flies enter my home?
Cluster flies find their way inside of homes in the late summer and fall months. They quite literally cluster together in large groups on the sides of walls to soak up the warmth of the sun. As temperatures lower, the flies look for cracks and gaps they can use to stay out of the wind. These cracks may often lead them into your home, either behind the walls or in attics and basements. Common access points include cracks under the windows or door trim, baseboards, and around lights, fans, or other utility appliances.
What do flies want?
Without warmth and shelter, cluster flies can’t survive Michigan’s freezing temperatures. Most common flies can’t hibernate, either, which means they need shelter and food access. If you have a fly infestation, it means your home likely provides both of these. Cluster flies look for warm, secluded areas where they can remain in diapause for long stretches of time. They eat little and do not reproduce or cause any real damage during this time. The only times they may show themselves are on sunny days.
How can I get rid of them?
Admittedly, cluster flies are rather difficult to control in winter. This is because they are already inside the walls. If you seal their access points now, you will trap them in your walls. That could potentially create a mess and attract other, even less desirable pests. Upon the arrival of spring’s consistently warm temperatures, cluster flies will leave your home to warm up outside. This does not always mean through their original access point, though, so don’t be surprised if you see/hear many live flies. Vacuuming up any deceased is the best method of disposing of.
On the bright side, albeit a nuisance, flies aren’t really that big of a deal. At worst, consider them an annoyance. Even if cluster flies are just an annoyance, the bad news is that they’re still… annoying.
The song goes, “Oh Christmas tree, oh Christmas tree! How lovely are your branches”. What the carol fails to mention, however, are the potential pests lurking on those branches. We expect to have our homes filled with guests as loved ones. However, there are less than desirable guests that you’ll need to be on the lookout for and stop before they spoil all the holiday cheer. A vigilant combination of prevention and eradication will help to keep your home free this holiday season!
Christmas Tree Pests
You have to expect that when you bring a live tree into your home, there is a potential for pests to be living in its branches that will be brought inside as well. Examples include spiders, mites, and aphids.
It’s imperative to carefully inspect your Christmas tree before making a purchase. However, if some bugs manage their way into your home, it’s best to use a vacuum cleaner to pick up any spiders or aphids.
You will also want to avoid hanging edible decorations, which are popular holiday staples but will obviously attract pests. Dough ornaments and popcorn garlands are tempting food choices that may attract more bugs inside of your home.
Ticks can live in pine trees, landing on humans and animals. Since ticks are vectors for disease, you must thoroughly inspect yourself and immediately remove any ticks you may find. You can prevent ticks from hitching a ride on your body by wearing long sleeves/pants, and tucking legs into socks when outdoors. Keeping animals on an anti-tick medication also helps to prevent any passengers.
Peridomestic is a scientific term for “around the house,” We use it to refer to cockroaches that have taken up residence inside the home.
Again, prevention is the best defense. Prevent cockroaches by keeping your home free of food debris (such as leaving a rogue snack plate in a bedroom or on the coffee table). When facing an infestation, you will want to consult experienced technicians as cockroaches can become a very large problem.
Bed bugs transfer from an infested house to other houses on furniture, and in baggage, boxes, suitcases, packed clothing, and bedding— especially when people travel frequently or change residences. During this holiday season, protect your home from a potential infestation by protecting your mattresses with bed bug covers, and be sure to dry all bedding on high heat before washing. Bed bugs can be prevented!
To get the most joy from your holidays this year, it pays to be vigilant against incoming pests. You don’t want any of your houseguests bothered by anything other than one another. For more information on dealing with tree pests, silverfish, ticks, and other annoyances or to get started on pest control and eradication program, please contact the licensed and professionally trained experts at Hogarth’s Pest Control today.
As the year draws to a close, many families have become excited about the idea of decorating their homes for the holiday.
But before you and yours get caught up in the excitement, be sure to follow these holiday pest control and prevention tips.
Set aside time to thoroughly inspect all decor before you put these up all over your home. For example, some decor, like Christmas trees, can serve as the perfect hiding place for uninvited guests. Without due diligence, you can find yourself dealing with them instead of having a blast with your loved ones.
Before putting up your Christmas tree/hanging wreaths, give these a close visual inspection, looking for insects and their eggs. Afterward, give them a vigorous shake to remove any eggs that may be hidden out of eyesight.
Make sure that you also check for any gnaw marks left on your Christmas lights, as they are likely made by rodents. You are just better off buying new ones if you do find there to be any damage. Do not gamble with the safety of your loved ones by using compromised lights.
It is best to do all of this outside. This gives you ample light and space to perform your inspection; ensuring the easier cleanup of droppings and debris left by any uninvited house guests.
Apply the same due diligence when using living materials such as branches and leaves for DIY holiday projects. Start your project after inspecting these materials for insects. Otherwise, you’ll only be giving problems a free ride inside of your house.
Apart from inspecting all decor, be sure that you store everything effectively when not in use. Different types of pests (ranging from insects like spiders to small mammals like rodents) can hide in boxes where you store holiday decorations.
Ideally, store holiday decor inside sealed containers such as bins that are a proper barrier against pests. Cardboard boxes, most specifically, are easy targets for rodents, which will damage your decorations.
If you are storing firewood on your property, make sure you use a raised structure about 20 feet away from your home. And before you bring firewood inside your home, check it carefully and brush it off.
These are critical steps that you need to undertake to boost safety in and around your home; preventing pests from dampening your holiday cheer. If you do find yourselves to be a victim of any of these holiday pests, do not hesitate to reach out to Hogarth’s Pest Control & Wildlife Removal. Happy Holidays!
The Christmas season is officially underway! Black Friday is over, and shopping has formally begun. This time of year is for chestnuts roasting on an open fire and Jack Frost nipping at your nose. So, turn up the Christmas music, hang up the lights, decorate the tree, and take in all that makes Christmas the ‘most wonderful time of the year’. However, while you’re at it, consider taking a couple of steps to keep this Christmas season pest-free.
Tips for Before Christmas
If you’re like most, this is the time of year you’re going to bring in boxes of decorations from storage. If you store your Christmas lights, ornaments, and other items in cardboard boxes, you might have a guest stop in for a visit. Many insects like to get into stored cardboard boxes, and a few rodents as well. Be aware that bringing a package in from a shed, garage, or any other outbuilding could potentially bring unwanted guests into your home. Consider thoroughly checking before bringing any boxes or bins indoors.
Pests can also enter your home hitched to a Christmas tree. Spiders can lay eggs in trees, and when those eggs are warmed inside your home, they may hatch into dozens of baby spiders. To be safe, give that tree a fair shake before setting it up.
No holiday is complete without lots of food. Make sure you check all of the packages you purchase at the store to ensure there are no holes or rips, preventing unwanted insects from gaining access to your pantry.
After Christmas
Once the festivities are over, it’s time pack everything away. Consider storing items in plastic totes rather than cardboard boxes. Bins will keep them safe from mold, mildew, dust, and even pests during the year and prevent any surprises for the next.
When you’re storing things away, be sure to check for any nesting material in your garage or attic. This is the season when mice are most likely to invade these places for the winter. Mouse nests look like pieces of fabric, insulation, cotton, cardboard, and other obviously collected materials.
If you find signs of pests this Christmas season, or you would like us to assist in preventing all of the many creatures that can invade your home this time of year, Hogarth’s Pest Control is happy to help. Give us a call today! Happy Holidays from our family to yours.
Thanksgiving is a holiday that family and friends gather together to share a meal and relax without worrying about the world. This year, it is exponentially more important for those who do get to spend time with family and friends to stay healthy, safe, and of course— well fed. Unfortunately, the increased amount of food and foot traffic in your home won’t just attract more humans, but pests as well. Here are a few critters that will make you wish you socially distanced this year.
Mice are always searching for food and shelter, especially when the cold weather arrives. Ensure that your house is free of any visible holes or cracks that grant entrance to these animals. Remember, mice only require holes the size of dimes to squeeze through! The scents emitting from your home during this week will attract mice, which is why you should also make sure that you adequately dispose of all food scraps. Use scented garbage bags and place all trash outside in sealed containers.
Spending time with those you love is what makes Thanksgiving such a special day. However, if you’re staying over at someone’s house for the holiday, make sure you inspect your room for bed bugs. Check the mattress, bed frame, carpeting, linens, et cetera., and make sure you place your bag on a desk or nightstand. Since bed bugs don’t discriminate whom they infest — no matter how clean they might be.
Bringing plates of food to and from the kitchen to the dining room will obviously result in a spill or two. Even just a rogue piece of stuffing in the corner of the kitchen can be an ant magnet. All it takes is for a single ant to discover a food source— from there, the colony will be quickly alerted thanks to pheromones. To avoid this, make sure your post-meal cleaning is swift and thorough.
When Thanksgiving arrives this week, your only worry should be spending quality time with those you love, not executive orders or a virus, and especially not about pests. If you fear your home may have a problem with pests (does not pertain to family members), contact Hogarth’s Pest Control.
Pumpkins are tempting treats for many unwanted pests, but most especially squirrels. If you have jack o’ lanterns outside of your home and are concerned about squirrels ruining them, here are some strategies to deter them.
Use a commercial repellent
Look for a brand made using rotten eggs. This will have a strong odor, especially right after it is applied. The smell should fade when the repellent dries, but you should spray your pumpkin away from the home.
Squirrels hate pets
Sprinkle some pet hair around your pumpkin.
Spicy Surprise
You can also mix hot sauce, water, and a drop of dish soap or vegetable oil to help the mixture stick to the pumpkins. You will need to spray them every day, and especially after it rains.
Straight up tabasco sauce can be an effective repellent as well, but it can become messy and can potentially stain both the pumpkin and your porch.
DIY Stink Bomb
Squirrels are repelled by the smell of distilled white vinegar. Vinegar can damage the pumpkin’s skin, so we suggest putting some in a bowl by the pumpkins.
Making a mixture of one part eucalyptus oil, ten parts water, and a drop of vegetable oil or dish soap to help it stick is also known to help. Apply iwith a cotton ball, repeating daily and after it rains.
Stick it to ’em
Squirrels dislike anything sticky. Another option is to coat your pumpkins with a generous coating of a vapor rub or petroleum jelly. This can last for weeks, even through rain.
You can also coat your pumpkins with a spray lacquer, letting it dry. This method will keep away some squirrels, but not every one of them. The spray must be applied to the whole pumpkin, inside and out.
Another solution is to spray the pumpkins with hairspray. You will need to reapply this every day or two, as well as after it rains.
When it doubt, scare them out
Owls are natural predators of squirrels. You will frighten squirrels by placing an owl statue near the pumpkins.
Another option is to place motion-activated devices near the pumpkins to frighten away squirrels.
Halloween spending has skyrocketed in recent years. The National Retail Federation has stated that “Americans are expected to spend $2.7 billion on Halloween decorations this year”.
In turn, wildlife organizations say they have also seen an increase in animal visits to local rehabilitation centers for injuries related to outdoor holiday decorations.
Halloween any other holiday in which homeowners decorate the exteriors of their houses is particularly dangerous for wildlife populations. Anything that hangs, flutters, or loops can be potential hazards. Increased human activity and scattered candy wrappers during Halloween can also put animals at risk.
We want to share some easy ways you can help make sure this Halloween isn’t a scary one for wildlife!
Keeping Wildlife Safe on Halloween
Limit the use of fake spiderweb or other decorations made of entangling fibers. Wild animals can easily become unable to break the material to free themselves.
Avoid decorations with loops and circles. A foraging animal can unknowingly put its head through a loop or circle and choke.
Avoid decorations with edible-looking parts.
Don’t leave candy where wildlife may find it, always being sure to dispose of candy wrappers.
Carved pumpkins may also be attractive to wildlife as food, so properly dispose of them to avoid unwanted, post-holiday trick-or-treaters.
Be on the look for nocturnal wildlife while out trick-or-treating. Avoid cutting through lawns and brushy areas to avoid accidental encounters.
Drivers on Halloween night know to be alert for children; however, we encourage you to keep an eye out for wildlife that may be scared out by all the increased nighttime activity.
Strings of lights can become snare traps for adult male deer who get them caught in their antlers. As a result, avoid hanging lights or decorations in areas where deer pass.
Wildlife is not the only at-risk critters this Halloween. It is important to be mindful of household pets, too!
Tips for Keeping Household Pets Safe on Halloween
Stash your treats.
The candy bowl is for trick-or-treaters, not the household dog. Several popular Halloween treats are highly toxic to pets. Chocolate in any form—especially dark or baking chocolate—can be very dangerous for cats and dogs; candies labeled ‘sugar-free’ contain the sugar substitute xylitol which can cause serious problems in animals.
Watch decorations and keep wires out of reach.
While a jack-o-lantern is certainly festive, pets can easily knock over a lit pumpkin and start a fire. That being said, curious kittens are especially at risk of getting hurt by candle flames. Popular Halloween plants such as pumpkins and corn are relatively nontoxic but have the ability to produce stomach discomfort in pets who snack on them.
Be mindful of costumes.
For some pets wearing a costume can become stressful. If you do decide to dress up your pet, be sure the costume does not limit his or her sight, ability to breathe, move, bark, or meow. Check the costume carefully for easily chewed-off pieces that could become a choking hazard. Poorly fitting outfits can become twisted on external objects and result in injury.
Be sure to try on the costume before the event; however, if they seem distressed or show abnormal behaviors, consider foregoing.
Keep pets easily identifiable.
Halloween brings exciting activity with visitors arriving at the door; overstimulation and strangers can often become scary and stressful for pets. Even the most social animals should be kept away from the door during trick-or-treating hours. While opening the door, be sure that your pet doesn’t dart out. Always make sure your pet is wearing proper identification!
The main goal of Halloween along with any other holiday you decorate for is to have fun. It is important, however, to always be mindful of how we affect those around us— animals too!
“Halloween Home Decor Can Hurt Wildlife, Officials Warn.” WDRB, 17 Oct. 2019, www.wdrb.com/news/national/halloween-home-decor-can-hurt-wildlife-officials-warn/article_fd700df2-f100-11e9-8162-47f987f12c4e.html.
Michigan is actually home to some of the scariest pests you may imagine. Our state is host to venomous spiders, but aggressive predator and something called an Assassin bug. These are all pests of different species that live in different environments and desire different things. The only commonality they share is that they all scare!
These five Michigan-infesting baddies aren’t necessarily the most common, dangerous, or even destructive pests we share a home state with. Not this post. No, these are simply the critters we’d least like to find underneath a couch cushion or, worse, in our beds. “We ain’t afraid of no critters,” of course, but even us professionals would think twice about approaching the top five scariest pests in our great state of Michigan:
1. Masked Hunter Assassin Bug
We said we weren’t kidding around about true “scariest” contenders here; get a load of that name.
.The Reduvius personatus belongs to the family of assassin bugs (yeah, there’s a whole family). They are small, glossy dark brown or black insects with wide abdomens and distinctive “beaks.” Along with their name and appearance, assassin bugs are the scariest because of how they feed.
Masked hunters prey on smaller insects such as bed bugs. Their beaklike mouthparts are actually hollow and sharp, like a needle. They stab their beaks into prey, which they use to inject a digestive enzyme into the victim’s body. This enzyme literally liquefies their victim’s insides, which the bug then drinks it up through its beak like a straw! That’s probably one of the most savage things we’ve heard. However, before you pack your bags and move, it’s important to note that these bugs can’t drink your insides. However, they will bite you if they feel threatened (it’s about as painful as a wasp sting), but it isn’t dangerous.
2. Woodlouse Spider
This spider has many nicknames: woodlouse, sowbug killer,
pillbug hunter, literally the scariest thing I’ve ever seen. Females are about ½ to ¾ inches long, while males are generally much smaller. Their many names refer to the fact that woodlouse spiders are predatory. They are nocturnal hunters that enjoy feeding on pillbugs and sowbugs.
Woodlouse spiders are easy to spot. Their coloration is quite distinctive: adults have a purple-brown body and bright orange legs. These legs are arranged mostly in front of the spider’s body, enabling them to run very swiftly. They also have large, threatening fangs that point forward. The spider uses these fangs like scissors to grab prey. It’s pretty unpleasant. Luckily, humans are rarely bitten by the woodlouse spider. Even if one did bite you, it would not be medically significant (i.e., dangerous). Unfortunately, the same can’t be said for the next creature on the list…
3. Brown Recluse Spider
Yes, the infamous brown recluse spider appears to have taken residence in our state. They are also referred to as “violin” or “fiddleback” spiders because of the distinct violin-shaped marking on their backs. They measure about 1.3 centimeters (about the size of a quarter) and appear grey-brown, brown, or tan. Unlike most spider species, brown recluses only have six eyes as opposed to the normal eight.
Unlike the Woodlouse spider and many others, the Brown recluse isn’t just scary. They also happen to be one of Michigan’s most dangerous pests. Brown recluse spiders administer a potent hemotoxic venom when they bite. This venom causes rashes, chills, fever, nausea, and vomiting; however, the worst symptoms include necrosis, which is the death of cells. Fortunately, brown recluse spiders are aptly named and are reclusive. They are not aggressive and prefer to avoid humans. Brown recluse spider bites are infrequent, even if the spiders live amongst people. However, brown recluse spiders aren’t the only venomous spider in Michigan.
4. Northern Black Widow Spider
You’re probably familiar with the Black widow. They’re arguably the most infamous spider on the planet, much less in the US. One particular species, the Northern black widow (Latrodectus variolus), happens to call Michigan its home. These spiders are paperclip in size and mostly black in color, except for an hourglass-shaped red marking on their abdomens.
Black widows are said to be the most venomous spider in North America. The venom they can inject via bites is considered 15 times more potent than a rattlesnake’s. Black widow venom is a “latrotoxin,” which means it attacks the nervous system. Their bites can trigger nausea, vomiting, stomach pain, fevers, and even more severe symptoms. Luckily, black widows bite humans very rarely, and even when they do bite, they don’t inject much venom. Black widow bites are rare, but if a black widow bites you, you should take it very seriously.
5. Blacklegged Tick
The Ixodes scapularis, aka the “black-legged” or “deer” tick, is one of three tick species commonly found in our state. Black-legged ticks are most common in western Michigan, but you really can find them in any grassy area. These ticks are small and brown with distinctive black legs. Like all ticks, Blacklegged ticks hunt by perching on foliage and clinging to prey as it passes by. This tick species primarily feed on humans in the summertime.
Blacklegged ticks are the main transmitters of Lyme disease in the Northern United States. Blacklegged ticks pick up the disease-causing Borrelia burgdorferi bacteria when feeding on deer. They then transmit the bacteria into that human’s bloodstream after latching to them. Lyme disease causes headaches, fevers, fatigue, and an expanding rash called Erythema migrans. To avoid tick bites, apply repellent when walking outside and stay out of long grassy areas. Be sure to thoroughly inspect your body and remove any ticks that attach themselves to you right away.
From the frightening/dangerous to the just plain scary, Michigan has its fair share of monster pests to contend with. Luckily, you’ve also got your own personal pest-slaying force: Hogarth’s Pest Control.
If you’re losing sleep about the creepy-crawlies in your basement or attic, give us a call today. We’ll bust those pests before you can say, “Happy Halloween!”
Consider yourself warned: this article is going to be nightmare fuel for arachnophobes. While it doesn’t contain frightening or grotesque spider photos, the topics discussed are enough to make you queasy if you’re not the fondest of the eight-legged creatures. There are so many creepy species of spiders and the things they do, and all that info is just a Google search away.
Of course, not all spiders are bad— not even most. They’re aesthetically unpleasing to many, yes; however, spiders are a crucial part of the ecosystem. They help naturally control pest populations, as well as weave beautifully artistic webs. Spiders actually become more fascinating as you study them. That doesn’t mean you should click on just anything tagged “spider” on the Internet, though.
Whether you’re just morbidly curious, courageous, or plain masochistic, here’s a roundup of spider-related things you probably shouldn’t search on Google.
1. Ear Spider Infestations
Spiders living in ears may sound like an urban legend, and many of the pictures you’ll find of the ‘condition’ have been photoshopped. However, there are true recorded cases of spiders being found lodged in both humans’ and animals’ ears.
Spiders don’t typically seek out ears to crawl into— or noses or mouths for that matter. When it does happen, though, the accounts are genuinely disconcerting. Individuals describe the scratching sounds they hear as the spider tries to move, mention unexplained headaches and ear pain. Even though it’s doubtful to ever happen to you, it isn’t terrific to think about.
2. Ballooning Spiders
Do you know what’s more frightening than a huge ball of spiders? A huge ball of spiders that can fly. In an act called ballooning, some spiders create a parachute of webbing that they can use to catch the wind and travel to other places. Like all things, what goes up must come down, and before long, witnesses will experience spiders raining down from the sky.
In Australia, this can occasionally become a major issue. Witnesses have reported millions of spiders falling from the sky, covering full towns in arachnids.
3. The Baltimore Wastewater Treatment Plant
This might be the worst spider infestation to date. The year was 2009, and the Baltimore Wastewater Treatment Plant sought help for what they deemed an “extreme” spider problem. When they said extreme, they weren’t kidding. Almost four entire acres of the property were completely coated in spider webs. Scientists who studied the event estimated over 107 million spiders were living there, with over 35 thousand spiders per cubic meter in some areas.
If you’re still debating whether or not you should give this a Google search, maybe this quote from the local paper will help your decision: “We were unprepared for the sheer scale of the spider population and the extraordinary masses of both three dimensional and sheet-like webbing that blanketed much of the facility’s cavernous interior… Far greater in magnitude than any previously recorded aggregation of orb-weavers, the spectacle’s visual impact was nothing less than astonishing. In places where the plant workers had swept aside the webbing to access equipment, the silk lay piled on the floor in rope-like clumps as thick as a fire hose.”
4. The Ukraine Mutant Spider
This story is an urban legend, no doubt, but it’s still one Google search to avoid when you’re alone late at night. The tale goes that, in the ’90s, a man was found dead in a Ukrainian elevator, with no immediately obvious cause of death. However, there did seem to be a bite mark, and an examination showed that he was missing a ton of blood.
Later, more victims were discovered, and authorities became concerned that there was some mutant creature or vampire. A police sergeant and detective decided to take matters into their own hands and search the elevator. They heard a strange sound from the top of the elevator and went to check it out. They discovered a giant spider with a head the size of a man’s fist. The detective managed to take out the spider – but not until it had claimed its final victim, the sergeant.
5. The Goliath Birdeater Tarantula
The Goliath Bird-Eating Tarantula is the world’s largest known spider. It can grow to roughly the size of a child’s arm and weigh as much as a puppy. Not all of them reached that immense size, but the largest one was recorded as 12″ long. Because they are so hairy, these spiders are often mistaken for small mammals.
This tarantula’s body is covered in barbed hairs, makes a loud hissing noise if threatened, and has fangs that are a staggering two inches long, capable of piercing a mouse’s skull. Oh, it’s also venomous and can regenerate lost limbs.
6. Brown Recluse Bites
Bites from the brown recluse are truly gnarly. Now, before you go suppressing your gag reflex, there’s something you should know: many of the terrifying bite images you will see when searching are misdiagnosed. Brown recluse bites are often blamed for diabetic ulcers, skin cancer, and complications from unrelated MRSA and Staph infections. Some are even bites from other animals. They can still really really mess you up, of course, but many people are quick to claim recluse when it’s actually something else.
All that aside, the images, whether misdiagnosed or real, are completely nauseating. And if you so choose (or not), you can look into what actually happens when you suffer a brown recluse bite. It’s not pretty.
7. Zombie Spiders
Imagine you killed a spider – and then it came back from the dead. This isn’t exactly what happens with zombie spiders, but the very concept of how they work is downright eerie. Ichneumonid wasps lay their eggs on the backs of orb weaver spiders. The eggs then become larvae and burrow down into the spider until it is pretty much dead. But the larvae don’t stop there; they assume control, ordering the spider to stop spinning webs to catch prey instead of making a new bed for the larvae. The larvae then let the spider die, eat it, and wait to turn into wasps to restart the cycle.
8. Wolf Spider Babies
Wolf spiders aren’t exactly as fuzzy as their namesakes. They got their name because they hunt down and catch their prey, rather than spinning a web and just waiting.
Wolf spider babies are far creepier than you could ever imagine. When a wolf spider lays her eggs, she attaches an egg sack to her stomach and carries it around until the babies are ready to hatch. She continues to carry her young around when they do, just like a human mother would – only more terrifying because she’s covered with swarming baby spiders.
9. Trapdoor Spiders
While ingenious, trapdoor spiders are also jump-scare masters. These little critters create burrows under the ground, made of earth, plants, and their own silk. Once the burrow is built, it creates a lid, complete with a camouflage top, which blends right into its surroundings. Then, the spider crawls in, shuts the burrow, and waits. When it senses its prey through vibrations outside, it springs its trap by throwing open the door, reaching out, and grabbing the creature. Spiders of this sort catch frogs, baby birds, and even fish!
10. Decoy Spiders
Some spiders don’t want to make themselves known to predators or prey, so they create a sort of diversion. These decoy spiders are, to put it mildly, pretty creepy. Some South American spiders will collect their prey and enemies’ corpses, and jungle refuse, to create a second spider on their web. Spiders in the Philippines do something similar.
Upon first glance, you might assume you see a spider and shy away. But if you see a spider decoy, you should also know that the spider is nearby, watching your every move.
It’s officially fall, which means Michigan’s woods and fields are buzzing with stinging insects fueling up for winter; and some of them are grumpy.
Yellowjackets are especially not in the mood to be trifled with as they can be really intolerant this time of the year. As things begin to wind down in the fall, they can become aggressive.We receive numerous calls each fall season with homeowners claiming to have a nest somewhere on their property Homeowners will notice singleton bees and wasps hanging out around their doors, windows, and soffits; they searching for any crevice to squeeze into. Yellowjackets often nest in the ground in colonies that can reach 4,000 to 5,000 workers. The entrance holes they are searching for might’ve been there since spring— but autumn is when the colony reaches its largest and when the insects become feisty. One reason is the last hatch consists of next year’s queens, which are the future of the colony.
Encounters
Swat a stinging insect and you might trigger and even more threatening response: Like a honeybee, a dying yellowjacket releases a pheromone that alerts the nest. Meddling or even stepping in the wrong place can trigger a full-on attack with the wasps swarming and pursuing.
Humans are most likely to encounter stinging insects as they look for food. Their diet somewhat changes. Throughout the summer wasps are predators, feeding on other insects. In the fall they develop somewhat of a sweet tooth. Fermenting fruit, colas, ciders, fruit juice, become more attractive to the wasps. Because of this, they tend to linger about orchards, cider mills, picnic areas, outdoor restaurant seating, and barbecues— all popular fall hangouts for Michigan residents.
Similar to mosquito bites, wasp stings contain a protein that can cause itching. They can and will sting multiple times, along with hornets. Both wasp and hornet stings can be painful and swell for up to 24 hours as they inject venom into their victims.
Honeybees, on the other hand, have a barbed stinger and can only sting once, as they die after stinging. The stinger remains in the victim’s skin until someone removes it. You can easily scrape it out with a fingernail or with a credit card.
Overall, avoiding these insects in any season is the best method to prevent stings. Knowing the correct precautions to take not only keeps your fall season safe but above all, fun!
For more information on how to distinguish stinging insects from one another, be sure to check this out!
Here are some examples of nests to avoid:
Miller, Korin. “Is That Stinging Insect a Bee, Wasp, or Hornet? Here’s Exactly How to Tell.” Prevention. 18 May 2020, www.prevention.com/life/a32389815/bee-vs-wasp-vs-hornet-difference/.
As shadows lengthen and days become shorter, we begin to see some six-legged critters sneaking around our windows, eaves, and soffits. This change is a good time for a reminder about just who some of these fall invaders are and how you can tell them apart. The insects are all just following the instinct to seek a secluded overwintering spot. Unfortunately for everyone, what happens next is anything but natural. The exterior sidewalls of our structures provide a beautiful array of nooks and crannies for these critters to sneak. The problem is that these spaces are often within human dwellings.
Who are the fall invaders on the side of my home?
Three of Michigan’s fall invaders are closely related in the order Hemiptera, or ‘true bugs.’ They are the boxelder bug, brown marmorated stink bug (BMSB), and western conifer seed bug (Table 1). During late summer and fall, it is possible to find all three species on one building.
Of these three insects, the brown marmorated stink bug is the newest arrival to Michigan, and the only one is a garden or agricultural pest. Often mistaken as a BMSB, western conifer seed bug is less common and mostly remains unnoticed until fall. Boxelder bugs are native Michigan insects that can be relatively abundant in some parts of the state. Boxelder bugs are not considered garden pests, but they can become a nuisance in homes only due to the large quantities that can accumulate on around doors, windows, and in attics over the winter.
If you are unsure whether the insects in your home are BMSB or not, Table 1 will help tell them apart. We use the shape of their hind legs, overall body shape, and color to differentiate these three fall invaders.
Table 1. Features that distinguish Michigan’s most common true bugs (Hemiptera)
Like many insects in the order Hemiptera, all three have a piercing-sucking mouthpart and can use it in self-defense. In other words, handle them with caution. It is important to note, however, that none of these insects sting or transmit disease; they do not reproduce in the winter. They are simply nuisance pests. In some of the most severe cases, excretions from high numbers of these bugs may stain furniture.
A fourth fall invader worth mentioning is the Asian lady beetle. These beetles spend their summers dining on aphids and other agricultural pests. They form large aggregations on the sides of structures in the fall as they search for a spot to overwinter.
Unlike the three mentioned previously, multi-colored Asian lady beetles are beetles (Coleoptera), not true bugs. Asian lady beetles can bite but do not spread disease. They also emit foul-smelling defensive secretions that can stain fabrics, and, in rare cases, can cause allergic reactions.
What causes these fall invaders to gather?
The summer months are when insects are active outdoors. However, as daylight lessens, insects undergo a physiological change known as ‘diapause.’ diapause is a time of inactivity during which they eat little to nothing and do not reproduce. In their natural habitats, the insects spend winter beneath tree bark.
BMSB begin to gather on the SW-W sides of buildings when there is less than 12.5 hours of daylight, usually the second or third week of September in Michigan. They mainly migrate toward garages, sheds, and siding with small spaces or gaps that protect them from the elements. For several weeks in the fall, BMSB and other aggregating insects may attempt to enter homes searching for an environment protected from snow and cold temperatures.
How can I keep them out?
In fall, be sure to check for gaps on the outside of the house that are wide enough for insects to enter. You can cover these areas with screens, wire mesh, or caulk. Window air conditioners should be checked for gaps. When hundreds of swarming insects are outside of a home, leave the windows closed or check for openings in the screen. The force of water from a hose knocks insects off exterior walls.
On homes with severe outbreaks, we apply a pest control treatment to the foundation or siding.
What do I do once they are inside?
The best way to control nuisance pests indoors is through removal or exclusion by a professional. Inside, BMSB are attracted to light and may fly towards light fixtures, resulting in an annoying buzz. We do not recommend applying insecticides to overwintering insects that are already inside your home. The chemicals will only kill insects that make direct contact and prevent additional insects from finding their way inside.
When hundreds of stink bugs are in the home or shed, vacuum with a shop-vac, on warmer winter days, a stray stink bug or two may emerge from diapause and walk or fly around the house. By this time, all overwintered insects are already inside a home, and hand-picking is the easiest way to eliminate them.
Fall invaders perpetually return each year. However, knowing the signs and how to prevent an invasion from occurring in your home is imperative.
Ah, the simple pleasure of an impeccably organized pantry. Who doesn’t feel at least slightly re-energized after a bout of over-the-top arranging? As it turns out, squirrels might feel the same way about neatly-organized nuts.
Scientists from the University of California Berkeley report that nut-hoarding squirrel species can be quite particular about their nut caches, putting them away in neat little groupings. This strategy helps them remember where all of their hiding places are. The findings point to just how mentally taxing caching nuts is; however, the organizational abilities of squirrels only go so far.
Aptly called “scatter-hoarders,” squirrels create lots of small caches where they store their loot; lest a crafty competitor or natural disaster wipes out their stockpiles. By having lots of small stashes all over the place, the squirrels ensure that at least some will stay safe. But the more caches you make, the more difficult it becomes to remember where all of them are. That’s where organization skills go a long way, cognitively speaking.
When we humans organize, we tend to put group things into discrete units. Scientists call this “chunking.” We humans do it daily, most regularly with phone numbers. Whether we realize it or not, we break the number into smaller strings—the area code, followed by the first three digits, and then the last four, rather than try to recall an unbroken line of numbers.
This type of chunking helps us remember locations, too. If you have 50 books, you’re never going to be able to recognize the exact location of each one on a bookshelf. But you could likely find any given book if you split the books into categories—say, non-fiction and fiction—and took a mental note of where each chunk is.
Chunking
We consider chunking a key mechanism of human cognition; studies have shown that rats and other animals can also use this critical memory recall strategy (aka mnemonic) in a laboratory setting. However, tests for chunking in wildlife are few and far between.
To find out if squirrels are chunkers, researchers from UC Berkeley gave 45 free-ranging Eastern fox squirrels a series of sixteen seeds from a central location: four each from four different species of plant. Some of the time, they gave them in organized groups. Others, they gave the nuts in a pseudorandom order, where they were mixed, and no species was presented twice in a row.
When the squirrels hid their loot, the scientists used GPS to record the location of each cache. They then reran the experiment, but this time, each time a squirrel hid a nut, the experimenters gave the next from that spot but later on, thus handing out the nuts from different locations each time. Then, they compared how often the squirrels overlapped nut varieties in their caches in each of the trials.
The Experiment
As the fastidious hoarders they are, the squirrels took the nuts handed out from the isolated central location and put them into species-specific storage. It made no difference what order the nuts were handed out in. “This first demonstration of chunking in a scatter-hoarder underscores the cognitive demand of scatter-hoarding,” the authors wrote. If it weren’t mentally taxing to remember all of the hiding spots, the animals wouldn’t need chunking to keep track of their findings.
However, when the researchers began handing out nuts from multiple locations, the animals’ neat little system started to break down. When the nut species were handed out in sequence from various locations, the species overlap was minimal, including up to only two species per cache. However, when everything was mixed and handed out from different places, the rodents’ organizing skills failed. Instead of grouping nuts by species, the squirrels appeared to avoid caching in the same areas as they had previously.
The Results
It’s unclear why the animals changed strategies. The pseudorandom order from multiple locations put a tremendous memory burden on their brains; so the animals should have needed a mnemonic device to remember their organized caches even more than before accurately. It’s possible that their mental capacity couldn’t handle the overload of information. Or, the strategy switch may have been due to the increase in the energetic demand of the organized grouping nuts by species and location when the different nuts are handed out so far apart from one another.
When you actually think about it, the mental energy it likely takes to be a scatter-hoarding squirrel is quite astronomical. Most humans find it hard enough to locate their keys after they put them down ten minutes ago; imagine remembering where you buried a nut in the woods weeks after!
The photo included shows an example of chunking we discovered in a generational squirrel job. We had never seen anything like it in all our years of service, but after finding this study, we are curious to know if we will ever stumble upon a nut hoard again!
Anwar, Yasmin. “Fox Squirrels Use’ Chunking’ to Organize Their Favorite Nuts.” Berkeley News, 15 Sept. 2017, news.berkeley.edu/2017/09/12/nut-chunking/.
All whiteflies suffer from somewhat of an identity crisis, as they are not flies at all. Their tiny, white appearance resembles moths, but they are, in fact, most closely related to sap-sucking aphids. Aphid-cast skins are easily mistaken for that of the whitefly, but whiteflies will quickly fly away if disturbed.
The fact that they hide on the undersides of the leaves, coupled with a quick flight pattern, makes them challenging to manage. Whiteflies are also fruitful because their numbers rapidly increase from two to four, four becomes eight, eight becomes 16, and so on. During the hottest weeks of summer, whiteflies may mature from the egg stage to a reproductive adult in as little as 16 days.
Damage
Whiteflies cause two types of damage to a plant, the first being direct. Whiteflies seriously injure plants by extracting juices from them, causing leaves to yellow, wither, and fall early. If the number of whiteflies per leaf is significant enough, it could lead to plant death. The second, or indirect, happens by way of adult whiteflies. They are able to transmit several viruses from diseased plants to healthy through their mouthparts.
Whiteflies (again like aphids) excrete “honeydew,” which is a sweet substance that forms a sticky coating on leaves. A fungus called “sooty mold” also quickly colonizes, which makes leaves look dirty. Generally speaking, sooty mold is harmless except when it is incredibly expansive, thus preventing light from reaching the surfaces of leaves, which stresses the plant. Sooty mold washes off easily with a forceful stream of water on sturdy plants.
Detection
Like many insects, whiteflies have nymphal and adult stages. Females lay their eggs in arcs or circles on the underside of the leaves that they spend their entire life cycle on. Whitefly nymphs have wingless, oval bodies and no apparent legs or antennae. The adults that emerge from mature larvae are winged and look like a very tiny moth.
Prevention
Attract beneficial enemies to your garden.
Plant a wide variety of flowering plants or individual insectary plants can provide beneficial insects with the habitats they require. Natural enemies of whiteflies are spiders, small birds, lacewings, ladybugs, and big-eyed bugs.
Scrutinize new plants. Make sure you aren’t purchasing infected plants.
One way to detect an invasion early is to hang sticky traps above the plants at the beginning of the season.
Use slow-release, organic fertilizers.
Maintain healthy plant growth, but make sure you do not over-fertilize with high nitrogen fertilizers. Too much nitrogen can overstimulate lush plant growth, prompting aphids to reproduce more quickly. Organic fertilizers are superior because they slowly release the proper levels of nutrients.
Avoid excessive pruning
This stimulates whitefly-attracting growth.
Use a row cover to exclude whitefly and other pests while still allowing light, air, and water to reach all plants.
Control ants by painting or spraying a 4″ wide sticky barrier around woody shrubs or trees.
For many sensitive trees, such as citrus, apply a protective barrier of white latex paint to the trunk before the sticky wall.
Less-Toxic Control
Use a syringe of water on the undersides of leaves on sturdy plants to wash off whiteflies and honeydew.
Use a vacuum to suck up whiteflies in the early morning when they are cold and slow-moving.
After vacuuming, empty into a sealed plastic bag and remove it from the premise.
Prune away any severely infested portions of the plant.
Place and seal material in bags and remove them from the premise.
Dispose properly and do not compost.
Use insecticidal soaps to kill whiteflies while causing the least harm to beneficial insects.
Even coverage of the underside of leaves is essential for effective use. These products do not leave toxic residues, sparing injury to the natural enemies.
Use spray (horticultural) oils to control whiteflies minimizing adverse effects on natural enemies.
To protect bees, avoid applying imidacloprid during the period one month before or during bloom. Removing blossoms before they open on young trees will prevent honey bee exposure to imidacloprid in the nectar/pollen.
We have no shortage of snakes in Michigan. Precisely speaking, the Michigan Department of Natural Resources lists 17 separate species that live within our state. Let’s get to know them! (Spoiler alert: Most of them are harmless.)
Black Rat Snake
The black rat snake is found in the southern lower peninsula, typically living in or near woodlands, often near water. They can reach anywhere from 3.5 to 8 feet in length! State law protects black rat snakes, citing them as a Michigan DNR species of particular concern. These non-venomous snakes are harmless to human, though it is the largest snake you will find in Michigan.
Blue Racer
Blue Racer snakes live throughout most of Michigan’s Lower Peninsula and the southern tip of the Upper Peninsula, inhabiting a variety of areas from open woods to meadows, marshes, and the other regions. They can reach anywhere from 4 to 6 feet in length. Once a common species, the number of Blue Racer snakes is decreasing. They have light-colored bellies and will shake their tails when they feel threatened. While they might bite in these cases, these snakes are not venomous.
Brown Snake
Brown snakes live throughout the Lower Peninsula and the southern tip of the Upper Peninsula in many areas, both residential and rural. They are small snakes, reaching only 9 to 15 inches in length. Brown snakes are common throughout the state; they rarely bite and are non-venomous. Brown snakes are shy and like to hide under objects or below the ground.
Butler’s Garter Snake
This widespread species lives in the eastern and southern Lower Peninsula, typically inhabiting moist areas like meadows, marshes, and the edges of lakes. While they can bite, it is unlikely, and they are non-venomous. Many say their teeth feel similar to velcro! Earthworms are a favorite food for the Butler’s Garter Snake.
Eastern Garter Snake
The most common snake in the state, the Eastern Garter snake, can be found everywhere, including urban areas! They have red tongues with a black tip and can reach 2 to 4 feet in length. They can bite but are non-venomous.
Copper-bellied Water Snake
You can only find the copper-bellied water snake in the southern area of the Lower Peninsula. Reaching 4 to 5 feet in length, these snakes do not lay eggs. Instead, they are one of the very few types of snakes that give birth to live offspring. Copper-bellied water snakes are endangered and protected by state law. They will bite if threatened but are non-venomous.
Eastern Hognose Snake
The Eastern hognose snake lives in the Lower Peninsula and the southern tip of the Upper Peninsula. However, they are most common in the western and northern Lower Peninsula, mostly in sandy woodland areas. While once prevalent, this medium-sized species is declining in numbers due to an irrational fear by humans who will kill the snake. They cannot harm you and will even play dead if threatened.
Eastern Massasauga Rattlesnake
This authentic rattlesnake reaches 2 to 3 feet in length and can be found in the Lower Peninsula, inhabiting wetlands during the spring and drier areas in the summer. While this species will try to avoid confrontation, they will bite if in danger, and they are venomous— however, the Massauga is the smallest and least venomous rattlesnake. It is important to note that this is the only species of poisonous snake throughout the state of Michigan, which means that the Upper Peninsula is void of any harmful snakes.
Eastern Milk Snake
The Eastern milk snake is common in the Lower Peninsula but rare in the Upper Peninsula. They survive in a variety of environments and reach 2 to 4 feet in length. They are harmless to humans, though these snakes got their name by lingering around farm buildings, eating mice and rats.
Fox Snake
The western fox snake is found in woods, fields, and dunes in the Upper Peninsula, while the eastern fox snake spends its time in the marshes and wet meadows of the Lower Peninsula. These snakes reach 3 to 5 feet in length and are classified as “threatened” and protected by state law. They are harmless to humans. In the U.P, the western fox snake goes by the “pine snake.”
Kirtland’s Snake
The Kirtland’s snake lives in the Southern Lower Peninsula in damp meadows, vacant lots, and open woodlands. This snake flattens its body when threatened and is endangered and protected by state law. They rarely bite and are non-venomous.
Northern Ribbon Snake
Common in wetland habitats throughout the Lower Peninsula, the Northern Ribbon snake, reaches anywhere from 18 to 38 inches in length. They are great swimmers and harmless to humans.
Northern Water Snake
One of the least pleasant on the list is the Northern water snake. These snakes can reach between 2 to 4 feet in length and live throughout the Lower Peninsula and the eastern Upper Peninsula, mostly near bodies of water. The Northern water snake can have up to 48 young per litter! While not a threatened species, human aggression has eliminated water snakes from many areas. They will bite if threatened but are non-venomous.
Queen snake
The Queen snake is a generally uncommon species that live near bodies of water in the Southern Lower Peninsula. They range from 15 to 36 inches in size and are not only unlikely to bite; they are non-venomous as well. Their diet primarily consists of crayfish.
Red-bellied snake
You can find red-bellied snake throughout Michigan, in fields and woods. They are common and like to hide beneath objects in trash dumps, reaching only around 15 inches in length. They are utterly harmless to humans.
Ring-necked Snake
Throughout Michigan but most common on the state’s larger islands, the ring-necked snake typically lives in moist woodlands. Spotting one is rare, and receiving a bite by one is even more unusual— though they do have slightly poisonous saliva. Despite only reaching 10 to 24 inches in length, they sometimes feast on smaller snakes.
Smooth Green Snake
Measuring at 12 to 20 inches in length, the smooth green snake can be found throughout lower Michigan in grassy areas. They are a common species that likes to chow down on insects. They rarely bite humans and are non-venomous!
As with most pests, proper identification is key when dealing with any sort of wildlife situation. If any of these snakes are an unwanted presence around your home, you know who to call!
“Michigan’s Snakes.” DNR – Michigan’s Snakes, 12 June 2019, www.michigan.gov/dnr/0,4570,7-350–61219–,00.html.
If you’ve stayed up-to-date with our blog, then you probably recall a post from a few months back discussing garden pests. While all of that information is relevant, it is essential to consider a few more factors that should be taken into account when gardening.
The home landscape is a complex habitat mainly consisting of vegetables, flowers, turf, and other foliage. For the majority, gardens are a relaxing place where we tailor the environment to our aesthetic and physical needs. Yet the garden is also home to nuisance pests. As a result, residential landscapes have become the depository of nearly 11% of the conventional pesticides used in the USA. Indeed, acre for acre, your cousin’s tomato patch has more pesticides than a farmer’s soybean field! Fortunately, the garden is also home to the natural enemies of these pests. Most gardeners come to know a great deal about their plants’ growth needs, but often know little of the resident insects within their garden.
We do not consider many of the insects in a garden to be harmful. The vast majority of North American insect species are either harmless to humans and garden plants or beneficial. To properly utilize the work that natural enemies do, we must first identify them and help them flourish. By using natural enemies to control pests, you reduce the need to use pesticides.
Garden placement
Garden placement is imperative for botanical survival. Be sure to keep gardens away from the home or structures, as they will cast shadows; keep planting areas at least 10ft from walls. Crops planted in the shade are less productive and may be more susceptible to disease and insect damage than planted in full sun.
Who are Friends of the Garden?
Most of us are familiar with ladybugs, spiders, and praying mantids; we know their diet consists of a lot of bad bugs. In addition, there are many other ‘natural enemies’ that are also taking care of pests. There are three major groups of natural enemies— predators, parasitoids, and pathogens.
Predators, such as ladybugs and spiders, eat much prey throughout a lifetime. They are often the most visible natural enemies in our garden and are larger and more robust than their prey. Some are agile hunters, while others sit and wait to pounce on a victim. You can promote beneficial predatory insects by including flowering plants in the garden.
Parasitoids are insects that develop as young in a host, leading to the eventual death of the said host. Unlike predators, most only kill only one object of prey during their juvenile stage. Many wasps and flies are parasitoids, but they are typically small and therefore go unnoticed.
Pathogens such as viruses, bacteria, nematodes, protozoans, and fungi— cause diseases. Many of these happen to naturally occur in our gardens, while others must be introduced. Commercial companies have begun to develop many of these pathogens as spray and bait formulations, making them more comfortable for us to use.
How To Avoid Common Garden Pests
To minimize beetles, clean up the garden and rotate crops every year. Hang birdhouses in the garden as birds enjoy eating worms. Water gardens in the morning only as slugs and snails prefer feeding on wet foliage. Encourage birds, snakes, frogs, and toads because all of these critters eat slugs and snails.
Carefully inspect all new plants for white flies before purchasing from a nursery. This is actually a constructive tip for preventing all of the vegetable garden pests.
One of the critters that are known to cause the most damage in our area is the thirteen-lined ground squirrel. To the untrained eye, this squirrel is often mistaken for an Eastern chipmunk. The squirrel causes extensive structural damage due to their tunnels. The tunnels are dug beneath patios, stairs, and foundations. However, burrows are the most common type of lawn damage caused by thirteen-lined ground squirrels. Because of these reasons, its presence is a nuisance and requires control.
As previously mentioned, thirteen-lined ground squirrels look a lot like the Eastern chipmunk. The biggest difference is that while chipmunks take to the trees, ground squirrels burrow. They make their homes along the foundation of buildings, in gardens, mulch beds, and so forth— they avoid wooded areas.
Associated problems
We hardly ever find thirteen-lined ground squirrels inside of homes and other structures, unlike the majority of their relative squirrel species. Rather than chewing inside, these squirrels will do their damage outside. They cause problems with erosion— tearing up gardens, and creating burrows/holes around the property.
In addition to structural damage, thirteen-lined ground squirrels also affect crops. In some areas, they feed on agricultural crops such as wheat, oats, corn, and — although the damage is limited to the harvest season, not during winter storage.
The thirteen-lined ground squirrel can also be a reservoir and vector for fleas and ticks. Contact with these squirrels risks contracting Lyme disease, as in more recent years they have become conduits of the tick-borne illness. Fleas, lice, and mites can also live on these rodents, so it is best to refer to a professional when dealing with them.
If you suspect you may have an issue with ground squirrels, we would be happy to help! These small and agile squirrels fit into our bait boxes where we trap them, so our control methods are environmentally friendly. Getting on a regular trapping program to control the population is an easy solution.
We hate to break it to arachnophobes, but Michigan has its share of the eight-legged crawlers. The good news is that only a couple possesses the power to hurt humans significantly. In this blog, we will get to know 22 of Michigan’s resident spiders.
Cross orb weaver Araneus diadematus
Size: Between 6 and 20 millimeters
Where can you find them?: Many places including yards, fields, and farms
Can they harm you?: Not known to bite humans unless cornered. The resulting bite is similar to a mild bee sting.
Fun fact: These spiders can sometimes “balloon,” meaning they ride the wind to higher locations. They can sometimes be found on the outside of skyscrapers.
American house spider Parasteatoda tepidariorum
Size: Between 4 and 9 millimeters
Where can you find them?: Indoors and outdoors, often near where humans live
Can they harm you?: These will only bite when attacked by a human; otherwise, it will likely run. Even if it does bite a human, only swelling and itching will occur.
Alternate name: Common house spider
Banded garden spider Argiope trifasciata
Size: Between 4 and 26 millimeters
Where can you find them?: In open fields and prairies
Can they harm you?: They will only bite a human if attacked, but the result will be similar to a bee sting.
Fun fact: Males are much, much smaller than females
Grass spider Agelenopsis
Species: A variety of species under the genus Agelenopsis
Size: Between 6 and 19 millimeters
Where can you find them?: In grass and the corners of buildings
Can they harm you?: No, and they will likely retreat if you approach.
Fun fact: They are very easily startled by any creatures except their prey.
Hacklemesh weaver Amaurobius ferox
Size: Between 8 and 15 millimeters
Where can you find them?: In dark places, near homes, under rocks and logs
Can they harm you?: Not known to bite
Fun fact: In addition to bugs and spiders, these creatures will munch on earthworms.
Dark fishing spider Dolomedes tenebrosus
Size: Between 7 and 26 millimeters
Where can you find them?: You’ll likely find this spider in the forest, hanging out on a tree.
Can they harm you?: It’s unlikely they will bite, but if they do, the bite is similar to a mild bee sting.
Fun fact: These spiders are preyed upon by individual wasps and other animals.
Black and yellow garden spider Argiope aurantia
Size: Between 5 and 28 millimeters
Where can you find them?: In gardens (hence the name), fields and farms
Can they harm you?: They might bite you if they feel attacked, but the bite is harmless to humans.
Alternate names: Writing spider, golden garden spider, corn spider
Goldenrod crab spider Misumena vatia
Size: Up to 10 millimeters
Where can you find them?: These spiders love flowers and are often found hiding in goldenrods … hence the name.
Can they harm you?: No.
Fun fact: These critters change colors from white to yellow and back again, to camouflage on different flowers.
Ant mimic spider Castianeira longipalpa
Size: Between 5 and 10 millimeters
Where can you find them?: In a variety of place near ground level, including under rocks, under logs and near fallen leaves
Can they harm you?: No.
Fun fact: These spiders exhibit many behaviors associated with carpenter ants, including raising front legs into the air to look much like an ant’s antennae.
Six-spotted fishing spider Dolomedes triton
Size: Between 8 and 20 millimeters
Where can you find them?: This spider is found on the edges of all different varieties of bodies of water.
Can they harm you?: They will bite if threatened, but the bites are not dangerous to humans.
Fun fact: These critters can stay underwater for 30 to 60 minutes at a time.
Woodlouse hunter Dysdera crocata
Size: Between 9 and 15 millimeters
Where can you find them?: This spider is predominantly found in gardens, forests, and fields.
Can they harm you?: The worst that will likely happen if this spider bites you is slight itchiness at the site of the bite.
Fun fact: The common name for this spider comes from its diet that consists almost exclusively of woodlice, also known as pill bugs.
Eastern parson spider Herphyllus ecclesiasticus
Size: Between 4 and 13 millimeters
Where can you find them?: Usually hiding underneath objects in wooded areas but might be spotted in the open or even indoors during nighttime hunting
Can they harm you?: They are considered harmless, though their bites might cause an allergic reaction in some humans.
Fun fact: These spiders are very fast and not often captured either literally or photographically.
Carolina wolf spider Hogna carolinensis
Size: Between 18 and 35 millimeters
Where can you find them?: Typically found in dry areas
Can they harm you?: They are timid and will flee humans. However, if caught by a human, this spider might bite, causing a similar reaction as a bee sting.
Fun fact: It’s the official state spider of South Carolina.
Orchard orb weaver Leucauge venusta
Size: Between 3.5 and 8 millimeters
Where can you find them?: In different habitats, including on trees in wooded areas and moist environments
Can they harm you?: This spider is too small to have fangs large enough to deliver venom to a human.
Fun fact: Charles Darwin named this spider.
Arrow shaped micrathena Micrathena sagittata
Size: Between 4 and 10 millimeters
Where can you find them?: In the woods or on the edge of forests, living in foliage
Can they harm you?: If this spider does bite you, which is unlikely, the resulting bite will appear much like a mosquito bite.
Fun fact: This spider has three claws at the end of each leg.
Spitting spider Scytodes thoracica
Size: Between 3 and 6 millimeters
Where can you find them?: You will likely find them in or around buildings, especially in dark spaces.
Can they harm you?: No.
Fun fact: While spiders typically have eight eyes, these creatures only have six eyes.
Barn funnel weaver Tegenaria domestica
Size: Between 3 and 6 millimeters
Where can you find them?: You will likely find them in or around buildings, especially in dark spaces.
Can they harm you?: They rarely bite humans, and even if they do bite, it should cause zero pain.
Fun fact: They sometimes curl into a ball if they feel threatened.
Zebra jumper Salticus scenicus
Size: Between 4 and 7 millimeters
Where can you find them?: In areas inhabited by humans, such as on buildings and fences
Can they harm you?: Another timid spider, their bite is rare and resembles an ant bite
Fun fact: They can tell when a human is watching and immediately change their behavior, basically showing off.
Southern black widow Latrodectus mactans
Size: Between 3 and 13 millimeters
Where can you find them?: Confined, protected spaces both near and far away from structures
Can they harm you?: While this spider is not aggressive, meaning a bite is rare, the venom is dangerous to humans. Healthy adults will likely avoid any potential for life-threatening reactions to the venom but will likely experience extreme muscle cramping and other effects. Anyone who has experienced a bite should seek medical attention immediately.
Fun fact: These spiders are preyed upon by certain wasps and other animals.
Size: Between 4 and 11 millimeters
Where can you find them?: In wooded areas and tree stumps, mostly in the western Lower Peninsula, according to Michigan State University
Can they harm you?: Bites are rare but dangerous because the venom is very poisonous. A tiny percentage (less than 1 percent) of bite victims die. Others experience pain, nausea, cramps, and profuse sweating.
Fun fact: They can be told apart from southern black widow spiders because the hourglass on the northern variety is detached in the middle.
False black widow Steatoda grossa
Size: Between 4 and 11 millimeters
Where can you find them?: Often they are found indoors near the ground
Can they harm you?: This is an extremely timid and non-aggressive spider. However, like many other species, they will bite humans if they feel threatened. Some blistering at the site of the bite is possible, according to the Penn State Department of Entomology, as well as pain and nausea.
Fun fact: In the 2002 film adaptation of “Spider-Man,” this is the species of spider that bites Peter Parker.
Long-legged sac spider Cheiracanthium mildei
Size: Between 5 and 10 millimeters
Where can you find them?: Mostly found indoors, many times nocturnally crawling on walls and ceilings
Can they harm you?: If bitten by this spider, mild irritation or itching is likely.
Fun fact: This spider is many times confused for the brown recluse.
A note about the brown recluse
Let’s be clear — you are unlikely to come across a brown recluse (species name Loxosceles reclusa) in Michigan. If you do, yes, they are dangerous.
These critters cannot live in temperatures under 40 degrees Fahrenheit, which means Michigan is not the place for them. Once in a while, though, they are found in the state. For instance, a Davison family recently found some of these bad boys in their garage.
If you do believe a brown recluse has bitten you, seek medical attention immediately.
Identification is critical with spiders, and we always ask our customers to try and save the specimen for the professional to identify and treat accordingly. Most of our calls regarding spiders are concerning their presence inside of the home, or their unsightly nests on/around buildings. Spider excrement can leave marks on windows and stain siding as well.
Hogarth’s Pest Control specializes in the removal and prevention of spiders in and around homes. If you are experiencing an unpleasant spider issue, do not hesitate to give us a call today!
The Pennsylvania State University. “False Black Widow Spider (Department of Entomology).” Department of Entomology (Penn State University), 2020, ento.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/false-black-widow.
This year we have seen a significant uptick in calls regarding large, black ants spotted around properties. These are carpenter ants, and they can become quite the nuisance if not properly treated. Swarming and flying carpenter ants are often mistaken for termites. It. is important to note that termites are somewhat uncommon in Northern Michigan and it is almost always carpenter ants that clients are finding.
Identifying Carpenter Ants
Carpenter ants are one of the largest species of ant. They can be as small as 1/16 of an inch and quickly grow to 1/2 inch. Queens are significantly larger and can easily grow up to an inch in size.
These ants can be found in the home and swarm towards windows to get out. Swarmers, as we like to call them, are the reproductive ants. They attempt to access the outside to produce satellite nests. After approximately a week they can exhaust themselves trying to get outside and die. There is no treatment to get rid of the swarming and flying carpenter ants, however, this indicates that there is a working nest in your home or structure that does need to be treated by a pest control professional.
Can they bite?
Carpenter ants can bite on contact, however, they are not venomous. They prefer to eat things with protein and sugar, including honeydew, jelly, and meats they come across within the home. Carpenter ants can travel up to 1,000 ft. away from their colony to forage their food, and depending on the weather, can be seen both inside or outside the home. On nice sunny days, typically from late March to mid-June, nests can be “woken up” and the ants may suddenly start appearing in and around your home looking for food.
Homeowners can do their own inspection to identify a carpenter ant issue. Carps are typically the most active in the afternoons on warm, sunny days. It is easy to find the ants the outside corners of your homes. If you identify a carpenter ant infestation, it is very important to have Hogarth’s Pest Control treat the issue. Carpenter ants can cause an extensive amount of structural damage to your home by chewing and destroying wood, similar to termites. Clients sometimes go years without realizing they have a carpenter ant nest.
Treating for Carpenter Ants
If carpenter ants become overwhelming, you may wash the countertops or use over-the-counter gel baits. DO NOT SPRAY OR USE GRANULES under any circumstances. If you had previously had another company treat or if you used any type of over-the-counter spray or granule, it will affect the outcome and how long it can take for our treatment to work. Gel baits can help to kill off some of the ants for the time being, but sprays and granules may only make the situation worse. Carpenter ants are EXTREMELY smart and can tell when their fellow ants are dying off. Carpenter ants can detect when a product has been put down and may avoid the area altogether.
They may work to avoid being seen by moving outside or relocating their nest. Gel baits will not kill off the nest. Hogarth’s Pest Control uses an un-detectable product that works by using the ants to take the product from outside to the nest itself, killing off the nest and the colony within 14-21 days of treatment. Once the carpenter ants have been treated for and the nest has been killed off, Hogarth’s can do an exterior preventative spray for all crawling insects, bees, wasps, and hornets. It is important to know that these are two different treatments and must be done at separate times.
Discovering A Nest
Occasionally, clients are unaware that they have carpenter ants until after their yearly spring treatment has been done. A typical exterior preventative treatment works to keep all crawling insects, bees, wasps, and hornets from getting inside the structure. However, this can trap carpenter ants inside the walls if not identified before-hand. If this is the case, Hogarth’s will need to do an interior ant treatment to rid your home of the ants. The interior treatment is non-invasive; we treat the baseboards, cracks, and crevices.
Within the 21 days after treating for carpenter ants, it’s extremely important not to kill the ants as you see them. It is imperative for the ants to cross the product and transfer it back to the nest. Hogarth’s Pest Control guarantees your home to be ant-free until the snow flies in the fall, however, they can return to the structure in the following spring. It is very important to have Hogarth’s do a preventative spray every spring to avoid re-infestation.
Avoiding Carpenter Ant Infestations
Carpenter ants seek out moisture and food. The homeowner can prevent infestations by correcting moisture problems and trimming tree branches to avoid touching the roof. Be sure to clean gutters regularly to avoid water run-off onto decking and other parts of the structure.
If you suspect a carpenter ant issue, be sure to consult Hogarth’s Pest Control for professional treatment and to avoid re-infestation.
Spring is an exciting time for everyone, but especially gardeners. The time to begin their yearly botanical endeavors is quickly approaching. However, it is not all smooth sailing no matter how skilled of a gardener one is— there are dangers in the form of garden pests lurking around the corner. Garden pests lay in wait for your new plants to begin growing, which when they’ll come out in full force, hungry from winter dormancy. By diligence and taking preventative action, you can stop these pests from wreaking havoc on your garden.
Aphids
Aphids can come in many colors and species, all of which can cause damage to your plants. These pests use their piercing mouthparts to feed on plant sap and juices. They can be found feeding in groups on new plant growth or the undersides of leaves, which kills them, as well as stems and buds. An aphid infestation can actually be exacerbated by over-fertilization with nitrogen. The plants most affected by aphid damage include geraniums, roses, tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, carrot crowns, kale, and cabbage. You can plant certain herbs that will attract wasps, who prey on aphids, to help control an infestation; however, spraying them off with a garden hose is most effective.
Corn Earworms
Corn earworm is a pest that migrates to Michigan every year carried on weather fronts; it overwinters in the southern United States, where it is also a pest of cotton and soybeans. Aptly named, corn earworms feed on ears of fresh corn. These worms are the biggest threat to sweet corn in Michigan because once they enter the ear, they become impossible to remove.
The worms attack corn silk, which results in moldy and deformed ears. Controlling corn earworms can be a difficult task that requires year-round vigilance.
Colorado Potato Beetles
Potato beetles have a yellow shell with ten narrow black stripes. In the spring, the females lay their eggs on the undersides of leaves.
When the larvae hatch, they feed on plant vegetation for 10-30 days before reaching adulthood. Potato beetles continue to feed on the foliage, which leads to the death of the plant. Use a floating row cover on potato plants to prevent these beetles from reaching the plants. Hand pick adults and larvae from the leaves and drop them into a cup of soapy water.
Cucumber Beetle
Cucumber beetles cause severe damage to crops like cucumbers, watermelons, and cantaloupe. These yellow-green beetles don’t limit the extent of their damage to feeding; they also cause bacterial wilt.
The bacterium that causes bacterial wilt lives in the stomachs of the cucumber beetles— in the spring when they emerge to feed, they spread the bacterium from their mouthparts and through their excrement. Once inside, the bacterium quickly multiplies which produces blockages that cause the leaves to wilt and die. The beetles unwittingly pick up the bacteria from the exterior of the plant and transfer it. There is, unfortunately, nothing that can be done to save a plant infected with wilt. Early preventative measures are essential to halt the spread of bacterial wilt. Cover crops with a row cover and remove as plants flower to help control these beetles.
No gardener wants their hard work to be compromised by garden pests. Knowing what to look for is the first step toward protecting the fruits of your labor!
It’s a public health concern perfect storm: With outdoor recreation one of the only exceptions to Michigan’s stay-home order during the current COVID-19 crisis, more people are heading outdoors— just as ticks reach peak season.
Michigan is home to various species of ticks, a few of which become active early this time of year. The deer tick, known as the black-legged, is perhaps the most notorious of them all; this is because they can carry the Lyme disease-causing bacteria.
Not all of Michigan’s tick species harbor dangerous bacteria, viruses, and parasites. However, several species do, and they can live in a variety of habitats, including people’s backyards.
Try to avoid habitats that ticks frequent. Ticks tend to prefer grassy and wooded locations. Avoiding these spots may be difficult if you’re also trying to hike or walk outdoors, which is why the following prevention tips are essential.
Don’t stray from the path.
This is especially relevant today as we find ourselves amidst a coronavirus crisis—trail maintenance may be limited, many park restroom facilities are closed, and people are supposed to stay six feet away from others even outdoors. Stick to the middles of trails whenever possible. If you must step to the side to let others pass, try to do so in a clear area and avoid coming in contact with brush and tall grass.
Do a “tick check” after coming indoors.
As you come indoors, check over your clothing for ticks (wearing clothes in light colors make them easier to find). Check children and pets for ticks, too. Look carefully: Adult-stage black-legged ticks are sesame-seed sized, while the nymphal-stage (which are more likely to carry the bacteria that causes Lyme) is the size of a poppy seed.
Be extra vigilant throughout the summer season.
Ticks are most active between April and September, though black-legged ticks can be active any time there are consecutive days above 32 degrees Fahrenheit. According to the Michigan Department of Health and Human Services, the “peak” Lyme disease transmission season in Michigan is in June.
Shower within two hours after coming inside.
Check all over your body, paying close attention to any crevices such as armpits, scalp, and groin. As an extra precautionary step, put your clothing in a dryer for 10 minutes on high heat. This kills ticks before washing.
Use insect repellent or treat your clothing before heading out.
The CDC recommends using products that contain permethrin, which you can use to treat footwear, clothing, and gear, as well as EPA-registered insect repellents.
What to do if a tick bites you
Gently remove the tick with tweezers, being sure to pull the tick straight out without squeezing or twisting.
Save the tick somehow and snap a photo for identification.
Living in Michigan, it is important to now your ticks. Ticks are a very common occurrence throughout the summer months for humans and animals alike. Be sure to protect your entire family, including your pets, against ticks this summer by familiarizing yourself with Michigan’s most prevalent species.
As of March 24th at 12:01 AM, Michigan is under a “Stay Home, Stay Safe” executive order due to the COVID-19 pandemic. This order will last 21 days, at least, and will significantly affect many of our resident’s lives. This has caused many of our residents to fall into somewhat of a panic (hello, toilet paper shortage). Many of you have asked how this affects the services we provide, especially as spring progresses and more critters awaken from their long winter’s nap. That being said, there are a few items we would like to address; hopefully, this will clear up any confusion you may have before making a call.
According to the executive order, businesses deemed as essential can continue to operate; even as more quarantines and restrictions are put in place. Both the National Pest Management Association and Michigan Pest Management Association firmly believe that structural pest control is an essential industry; one that must continue to provide the valuable services we offer during the COVID-19 pandemic. These services protect our customers from not only emotional distress but more importantly, from an array of diseases. However, despite operating as usual, the questions do not stop there, and for a good reason!
There are many questions surrounding COVID-19, including how it spreads. With spring progressing, there have been concerns about potential disease transmission from insects. It is imperative to note that COVID-19 does not spread via pests. While the most accurate and up-to-date resource for information on COVID-19 remains the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, we’ll dive deeper into the differences between common vector-borne diseases and various coronaviruses to help dispel any myths about transmission.
What are Vector Pests?
Vector pests such as mosquitoes and ticks play significant roles in the transmission of many serious diseases. Worldwide, mosquitoes are the leading vector pests responsible for the transfer of infections to humans. They are responsible for spreading malaria, West Nile virus, Zika virus, Eastern equine encephalitis (EEE), yellow fever, and others. Ticks are responsible for the transmission of Lyme disease, the most common vector-borne infection in the United States; as well as many others such as Rocky Mountain spotted fever, ehrlichiosis, babesiosis, and anaplasmosis.
What are Coronaviruses?
Coronaviruses, which are common to humans, are well-known causes of the common cold and flu and were first identified in the 1960s. There are four main subgroups of human coronaviruses; they mainly transmit through contact with the bodily fluids of an infected person. This is done by simple acts such as coughing and sneezing. Droplets, often microscopic, from the infected person are inhaled by someone nearby (usually within a three to six-foot radius); also via contact with a contaminated surface— such as one that was just coughed or sneezed upon, then inadvertently touching one’s face or eyes; or by something as simple as sharing an eating utensil. This is why it is imperative to wash hands and refrain from touching our faces during this time.
How is COVID-19 Different From Other Coronaviruses?
Middle East Respiratory Syndrome (MERS), Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome (SARS), and now COVID-19 are zoonotic coronaviruses– meaning they are viruses that have jumped the species barrier from their regular animal hosts to humans (Think Bird and Swine flu). This happens through direct contact with an infected animal, as well as indirect contact or eating contaminated food. Zoonotic diseases are also prevalent, and once they transmit to humans, they continue to spread through person-to-person contact as well. This makes proper handwashing and other preventative actions outlined by the CDC paramount to public safety.
Can Pets Contract Coronavirus?
Dogs and cats can contract certain types of coronaviruses, such as the canine respiratory coronavirus, but we believe this specific coronavirus to not be a health threat to pets. The CDC says that “while this virus seems to have emerged from an animal source, it is now spreading from person-to-person.” The CDC also states that “there is no reason to think that any animals or pets in the United States might be a source of infection with this novel coronavirus.” Fortunately for pet owners, the virus survives best on smooth surfaces, such as countertops and doorknobs. Porous materials, such as pet fur, tend to absorb and trap pathogens, making it harder to contract them through touch.
While the world is in an uproar unlike any we’ve seen, rest easy that we are doing as much as we can to ensure the protection of your home. We have received training in the use of proper PPE (personal protective equipment); as well as practicing proper hygiene to cut back on the spread of any germs. So, if during this 21 day period you hear/see any unwelcome guests around your home (in-laws not included) please do not hesitate to call. Remember: no question is a stupid question, and we look forward to answering yours!
AKC Staff. “Can Dogs Get Coronavirus?” American Kennel Club, American Kennel Club, 20 Mar. 2020, www.akc.org/expert-advice/news/can-dogs-get-coronavirus/.
“Animals and Coronavirus Disease 2019 (COVID-19).” Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, 16 Mar. 2020, www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/prepare/animals.html.
March 23, 2020 at 11 AM EST, Governor Whitmer officially implemented a ‘stay-at-home’ order. This order was set to curve the spread of the COVID-19 (coronavirus) pandemic beginning March 24th at 12:01 AM.
The order states:
“To suppress the spread of COVID-19, to prevent the state’s health care system from being overwhelmed, to allow time for the production of critical test kits, ventilators, and personal protective equipment, and to avoid needless deaths, it is reasonable and necessary to direct residents to remain at home or in their place of residence to the maximum extent feasible. To that end, on March 23, 2020, I issued Executive Order 2020-21, ordering all people in Michigan to stay home and stay safe. The order limits gatherings and travel, and workers who are not necessary to sustain or protect life to stay home.”
However, we believe it is imperative to address how this affects our services. According to the Michigan Pest Management Association: “Both NPMA and MPMA firmly believe that structural pest control is an essential industry that must continue to provide the valuable services we offer during this pandemic.”
We will continue to operate business as usual. However, we will make sure to practice proper social distancing; as a result, this ensures we keep both our employees and customers as safe as possible.
We will operate based on the Occupational Safety and Health Administration’s (OSHA) Safe Work Practices and Personal Protective Equipment
Coronavirus will not stop from keeping your home pest-free!
For more information on our operating procedures during this time, visit our COVID-19 page.
Spring is here, which means so is everything (or everyone) that comes with it. We’ve mentioned these months being the mating season for various wildlife, but we have yet to touch on the creepy-crawlies that decide to make their way out of hiding as the snow dissipates.
When pests wake up in spring, they’re hungry, thirsty, and ready to find mates. To make up for their long winter’s nap, they tend to enthusiastically pursue these activities. Their valiant pursuits create problems that are all-too-common this time every year. Here are the most common pests you’re bound to encounter this spring, what they’re up to, and the challenges they cause.
During the fall, BMSB’s desperately seek out any warm place where they can hunker down for the winter. Once they find their spot, they become dormant until temperatures rise back up to survivable levels. Once this happens, they wake up with a one-track mind: mating. In their earnest attempts to get back outdoors, however, they tend to get trapped inside.Luckily for homeowners, BMSB’s don’t nest or reproduce indoors, bite, or spread disease. True to their name, however, they do stink. When threatened, BMSB’s secrete a foul-smelling substance from a particular scent gland. The scent is reminiscent of rotten vegetables. These smelly secretions can also leave behind a dark yellow stain on carpets, furniture, and window sills.
Starting in the early fall, boxelder bugs seek out warm, dry places where they can wait out the winter months. Unfortunately, those ideal places often include homes. When spring makes its appearance, boxelders become active again to reproduce and find newly rejuvenated food sources. When this happens, they vacate their winter hideaways in droves. If they were overwintering in your home, you’re going to run into them again in spring.
Boxelder bugs are a nuisance, but like BMSB’s, they’re not dangerous. Boxelders spread disease, don’t bite, lay eggs indoors, or eat fabrics or stored foods. Instead, they vacate the premises to seek flowers and the seeds oftrees such as, you guessed it, the boxelder. The nuisance part comes from the quantity you may notice as they vacate. Boxelder excretions can also stain window ledges and other favored areas.
The short but very active pavement ant mating season begins in late spring. During which you may notice swarms of larger-than-average, reddish-black ants moving in alarmingly large groups, called clusters. After mating, the ants lay eggs in the tight crevices of pavement (aptly named). When young pavement ants emerge, they begin to look for a food source almost immediately.
In the home, pavement ants are most often encountered in swarms in your kitchen. They break down and carry off many types of stored food, especially sugars and grains. When food is available, they tend to linger. It’s not uncommon to find an ant infestation in pantries, cabinets, cupboards—anywhere food is readily available. They indeed will attack whatever they can get their mandibles on. Unlike other pests on this list, they tend to stay active as long as they’re warm and have food.
During spring, these infamous wood-infesting ants come marching in to nest and search for water. Carpenter ant infestations tend to be the most noticeable at the beginning of the season. Starting in mid-spring, the reproductive carpenter ant castes swarm to seek mates and start new colonies. After mating, queen ants find ideal places to lay eggs. These eggs hatch into worker ants, and the infestation begins.
Carpenter ants are a problem because they colonize in wood. The tunnels they bore can compromise the structural integrity of wood products. Carpenter ants don’t eat the wood they infest like termites. Instead, they hunt for sources of sugar and protein. You may find forager ants in your basement, kitchen, or garden. Keep a close eye out for swarmers (winged) in particular. If you notice these flying ants in your home, chances are their nest is also inside your home.
Spring is always a lovely, refreshing time of year–, especially after the brutal Michigan winters. Don’t let any of these pests ruin that new-season bliss for you. If you need any help combating an infestation so you can enjoy the beautiful parts of spring, give us a call. We can deal with the dirty work so you can enjoy the rest.
Love is in the air, and it’s almost as if we can smell it. Oh, wait… we can. However, it isn’t love that is making our eyes water, but rather the all too familiar stench of skunks. In Michigan, skunk mating season stretches from February through the end of March. This means you may notice that familiar smell wafting through your neighborhood, as well as increased sightings of skunks’ bushy black tails scurrying for cover— or maybe even some of the less fortunate specimens alongside the road.
Skunks Mating Habits
The trademark stink we’ve come to recognize occurs when males attempt to court females who may not be “in the mood”, per se. When this happens, female skunks will generate the aroma to repel the dejected suitors. Fortunately, this epic skunk romance only lasts a short time.
After a sixty-day gestation, the pregnant female skunks give birth to their litter of 4 to seven pups in April to May. Older females come into their breeding season earlier in the season than the younger females and, therefore, give birth to their litters earlier in the spring. Older females also tend to bear larger litters. Females tend to breed by their second summer. In a typical population of skunks, the vast majority of the females will be pregnant or will have just had litters.
Most female striped skunks only reproduce once a year; however, males will reproduce multiple times, with numerous females. After mating, the females no longer associate with males and will become aggressive towards them.
Litters & Life Expectancy
After mating, female skunks disperse from their winter dens to separate maternal dens to wait out their gestation.
The young are born blind and deaf with short, fine fur. Despite this, they already have patterns present on what little coat they have at birth. Pups do not open their eyes until they are about three weeks old, and then they continue to nurse until they are about six weeks to two months old. It is around this time that they learn to forage and hunt by following their mother in a single-file line during outings. The mothers protect their young; during this time, she displays extremely defensive behavior, so it is essential to avoid a little of skunk pups should you come across one. The male young become independent by July to August, while the female young may remain with their mothers until the following spring season. Both males and females begin mating around ten months old.
Unfortunately for most, striped skunks usually do not survive their first year due to severe weather conditions and disease. After that first year, they can live up to seven years in the wild and up to a decade in captivity. Other factors contributing to skunk mortality include predation and parasitism, as well as risk from road systems and hunting. Like humans, skunks who don’t get lucky can’t die of shame. As the saying goes— try, try again.
So the next time you’re outside this spring season and notice that familiar stench, take a moment of silence for yet another guy who, much to his chagrin, struck out on love. Poor sap. Better luck next time!
With winter at our doorstep, pests have already begun searching for shelter from the harsh elements. Unfortunately for humans, they often end up as unwelcome guests in your home and other buildings. The National Pest Management Association (NPMA) suggests homeowners take proactive steps to prevent overwintering pests from invading their houses. A few pest-proofing techniques can help prevent the aggravation of infestations and help prevent structural damage and protect family health.
When pests enter homes to overwinter, they can often go unnoticed. However, as the weather warms, they reemerge and become active, often revealing more significant problems.
There are all kinds of different people in the world. Some will stop everything they’re doing to chase a single stink bug around the house. Others can have hundreds crawling in their curtains, walking across their television, buzzing through the living room and kitchen—and dismiss them as nothing Most fall somewhere in the middle. No matter where you land, we’re thinking you would probably like to know how to keep those pests out of your house.
Keep Out!
Knowing how to prevent overwintering pests from moving into your home begins with understanding the reasons they enter a house in the first place. Overwintering pests are unique in that they don’t prefer to live indoors; in fact, many of them cannot survive inside. Their food sources are outdoors.
So, why come in? The secret is in their name. Overwintering pests are transient and need a place to stay for the winter months. Once the cold weather dissipates, they’re happy to go. The problem is, they can be quite a problem while they’re waiting to do so, namely in the spring, as they try to leave and have trouble figuring out how they got in.
In many cases, these pests will make themselves comfortable in seasonal homes where they become dormant. However, if a homeowner is to visit and raise the temperature in the home, these pests will awaken and emerge. This can be quite disturbing for anyone looking to celebrate a holiday or spend a peaceful weekend at the cabin.
Prevention
The two ways to avoid welcoming overwinterers are directly linked to the behavior of these pests. In the fall, rather than warming themselves on the sunny side of a rock, they are most likely warming themselves on the sunny side of your home. This can be easily averted by hiring a pest control company to treat any exterior walls. If the pests are unable to congregate, they won’t be exploring your defenses to find a way into the home.
The second way to avoid these pests is essential, but can be ineffective if not completed properly. Since overwintering bugs are searching for a way in, it makes sense that sealing your cracks and crevices in walls will keep them out. The problem is that your walls have a lot more vulnerabilities than one may realize. Many pests, including mice, can squeeze into tiny holes in areas under your porch or deck, slide under siding, wiggle in through torn screens, and make their way right down your chimney. While it is essential to address as many entry points as you can, the only real solution is to create barriers to seal them out.
Common Overwintering Pests
Stink Bugs – The brown marmorated stink bug, an invasive species from Asia, has quickly spread throughout much of the United States over the years. Though the majority of their lifecycle is spent outdoors, they become a smelly nuisance when they invade homes in high numbers searching for overwintering sites.
Asian Beetles – Most species of this beetle family pose little threat to humans, but the multi-colored Asian beetle can aggravate asthma and cause allergic reactions. They also tend to exude a staining, yellow, foul-smelling fluid. These are not to be confused with Lady Bugs, a harmless species of beetle.
Boxelder Bugs – Boxelder bugs congregate on warm spots of buildings before migrating indoors to overwinter in insulating cracks and crevices. Their fecal material can discolor fabric, and they occasionally bite when handled, which causes slight irritation.
Mice – Though they don’t “overwinter” per se, mice are active year-round and scurry indoors when the weather cools to nest and be close to food sources. Their constant gnawing causes damage and even spark electrical fires. They are also a sanitation issue, contaminating food and defecating on surfaces like counters.
To prevent pests this fall, repair torn screens, seal cracks with high-quality silicone or silicone-latex caulk, fill holes around utilities with steel wool and install door sweeps on exterior entrances. If you suspect an infestation, a qualified pest professional can evaluate the problem and recommend an action plan.
Spiders are one of the easily recognizable and beneficial creatures; despite this, many people have an inherent fear of them their bites and will not tolerate their presence. The vast majority of spiders living in Michigan are not even dangerous, let alone poisonous. As a matter-of-fact, it is rare to even come in contact with Michigan’s more hazardous species. In short, don’t panic over poisonous spiders in Michigan.
Spider Bites
Most people associate spiders with the potential of venomous bites, but the danger of those bites is profoundly blown out of proportion. The majority of spiders are not at all dangerous to humans, only a small percentage. All spiders, even those that are venomous, are non-aggressive and will not (typically) bite unless they feel threatened or provoked; even then, only the more sizeable species have the capability of piercing human skin with their tiny fangs.
According to the Michigan Department of Natural Resources, there are only two species of venomous spiders living in Michigan: the Northern black widow and brown recluse.
Northern Black Widow
The northern black widow is native to Michigan and can be found throughout the state, especially in the lower peninsula. The black widow is relatively small, only growing to about a 1/2 inch long (1.5 inches if you include the legs). They are entirely black except for a distinct bright red, hourglass marking on the abdomen of the female (it is important to point out that the hourglass is incomplete in the middle). Males lack this trademark, but many have red or yellow bands on their abdomen or back.
Black widows are commonly lurking near or in woodpiles; many encounters with this spider occur as people are carrying firewood into the home. These spiders may also live in boxes, outdoor toilets, meter boxes, under eaves, and other various undisturbed places. Taking extra precautions when working in areas where black widows may live is beneficial; always be sure to wear gloves and pay attention.
Black widows rarely bite, as they are timid and prefer to flee an encounter. If a black widow bites you, however, you will need to seek medical attention immediately. Their bites are quite painful. They can cause acute latrodectism, a condition in which the spider’s venom spreads quickly throughout the body, causing constant, intense muscle contractions in all of the major muscle groups followed by painful and severe cramping. These muscle contractions (a condition called tetany) may include anxiety, dizziness, headache, tearing of the eyes, joint pain, and tremors.
Though death from a black widow bite is rare, and though symptoms will usually dissipate within three days, medical treatment can considerably lessen the unpleasantness of the symptoms by the use of antivenoms and muscle relaxers. Asn with many ailments, the elderly, extremely young, or very ill victims are at a higher risk for more severe complications.
Brown Recluse
Brown recluse spiders are about 0.5 in long with a dark violin-shaped mark on the combined head and midsection. They live in the south-central United States and can only survive in arid, undisturbed areas, such as rock or woodpiles.
Brown recluse bites don’t always hurt immediately. You may not know that you are suffering from their venom until other symptoms become present. Symptoms of a brown recluse bite include:
Reddened skin that may precede a blister that forms at the site.
Mild to intense itching and pain for 2 to 8 hours following the bite.
An open sore with necrosis (a breakdown of tissue) that develops a week or more following the bite. This may take months to heal.
The brown recluse is not one of the indigenous species to Michigan and cannot survive in temperatures colder than 40°F, so they are infrequent in the state. It is believed that those that are found have come in on trucks originating in the southern United States.
Despite this, there are rare, isolated populations of these spiders living in the state. Still, the vast majority of Michiganders will never come within a half-mile of a brown recluse spider.
Dangers of Spiders and Their Bites
Most people concerned about the presence of spiders in the home worry about the potential of bites. Except for the aforementioned brown recluse and the black widow, none of the other species’ in Michigan pose as a threat to human health. This is not to say that these other spiders will not bite because they definitely can; even the bites of the non-venomous spiders can be painful. Spiders will most likely bite if they are handled, but most spider bites do not occur in this manner.
A more conventional yet still rare manner of a bite occurs when people are asleep. A spider will be lurking about beneath the covers, seeking the darkness and warm. A sleeping person can unknowingly move and startle the spider, which will then results in a bite before scampering away. The unsuspecting victim will then up with a painful or reddened bite, sometimes mistaking the spider bite for bed bugs.
It is imperative to note that it’s challenging for a medical professional to diagnose the perpetrator based solely on the appearance of a bite, though.
Many “spider” bites are bites from other insects that go unnoticed until a reddened, itchy, or painful spot occurs. These are likely reactions from the bites of mosquitos, gnats, and flies.
Spider Control
Spider eggs are also a threat, in the sense that a spider that lay eggs in the home will only create more spiders. These sacs look like furry, white balls, usually a little smaller than a marble. Destroying/removing spider eggs is essential in controlling spider a population.
When it comes to spiders, identification is key. We always ask our customers to try and save a specimen for our professionals to identify and treat accordingly.
Despite knowing the rarity of an encounter with a dangerous spider, it does not stop the vast majority of the public from letting out a shriek when spotted. Knowing what to look for is the most important step in avoiding an encounter with a potentially poisonous biter. The more you know!
It is that time of the year (again) when homeowners need to start thinking about fall exclusion against overwintering pests and wildlife rather than prevention alone. It is most ideal for homes and businesses to take the necessary steps to exclude various pests before the temperature really begins to drop.
The most common fall pest problems include:
Rodents
Wildlife
Overwintering Insects
Rodents
The house and field mouse are two of the leading players in this group. The house mouse prefers grains, seeds, cereals, fruits, and vegetables— virtually anything humans will consume. They will take up residence inside and feed off of whatever they can find, and they do not come and go.
Field mice are most known to find dwellings inside in older homes and structures, such as barns, garages, etc. We most commonly find them in areas where there are more forests and fields. They are scavengers and will eat any food that is readily available to them— from birdseed to garbage.
Wildlife
Wildlife that you may find yourself trying to eliminate from your home would include raccoons, squirrels, birds, bats, and opossums. These animals can create several different issues depending on the animal. They all, however, can wreak havoc on your home, attic, and electrical equipment, not to mention the health hazards which can arise from the feces and urine. All of these animals search for ideal places to overwinter, which is why fall exclusion can be very common.
Overwintering Insects
These include anything that will try to survive the cold winter months inside a hidden protective section of your home or business. This includes stink bugs, Asian lady beetles, and cluster flies.
Stink bugs are small enough to use many different opportunities to enter a structure, so think about more than just the windows or doors as possible entry points.
Overwintering guests usually occur in the fall when the temperatures start to drop. They can be located in your attic for up to six months during the winter, which is why homeowners will then see huge populations as they make their way out around the windows and doors as the temperature begins to increase.
When the stinkbug or other pest starts warming up, you may begin seeing them move out of light fixtures, vents, and any other opening they may have found. Their antennae are capable of sensing temperature change and wind current.
So why exclusion as opposed to trapping?
Fall exclusion is always the best policy with overwintering pests (although it is not 100% when it comes to in-laws).
Protecting an area against pest access via physical exclusion is the most effective method for protecting your home or structure. Exclusion involves altering the environment so pests cannot enter or travel through.
Wildlife tends to occupy space under structures or decking through unseen gaps and holes. To most homeowners, merely trapping the animal seems like the best option. Though useful in most cases, trapping is not a permanent fix. Typically, property owners have had to trap an animal every year in the same spot. Excluding the deck using different applications, depending on the intended animal (or animals) that the homeowner would like to keep out, is the key to success. In most cases, the exclusion is guaranteed permanent.
How do you know exclusion is best for you? Just take a look!
The best starting point is to walk the perimeter, scanning the home top to bottom. Look for overhanging branches that may give easy access to the roof or vents. Look for entry points that need to be repaired. Think small; a mouse can enter into a hole the size of a dime.
Look for excessive coverage on the ground level. Make sure you are not giving rodents and other animals a protective place to move around with no chance of being discovered. Think about relocating woodpiles and other items that may be leaning up against the home or structures, as these can be safe havens or access points for unwanted guests.
Call a Pest Control or Wildlife Removal Professional
Exclusion reduces long-term pesticide requirements, as well as continued trapping. There are particular products we utilize to stop mice or other pests from entering a structure. A copper mesh can be used in most entry points where ventilation is needed. Caulk, netting, and wire mesh are ideal around windows, doors, holes, and cracks. Cap the chimney opening, ridge vents, and any other accessible runs into the attic should be repaired and closed off.
During our inspection, we will also check openings from the ground on up, look at the roof, shingles, vents, soffits, and plumbing penetrations.
We’ve excluded, but are still spotting wildlife scurrying about.
If you happen to be dealing with a severe rodent problem, it may be time to invest in bait stations and bait to place around the structure and keep them working for you year-round. This will keep the outside population under control and help stop them from entering at all.
For overwintering insects, applying a residual insecticide to the entry points will eliminate the large populations you may find yourself. Spraying the exterior of the home, usually, the south side is an excellent area to start as this will help reduce the numbers that make it inside.
Example of our work
Hogarth’s Pest Control & Wildlife Removal offers our customers a solution to the entire problem, not just a band-aid. If you are suffering from any unwanted pests or wildlife near your home this fall, exclusion may be right for you. Call us today!
The big brown bat happens to one of the more common species of bat we encounter. We most often find in barns, attics, and other buildings. These mammals play an integral role in the ecosystem of many areas, helping to manage the populations of insects in these locations.
Big Brown Bat Biology
Aptly named the big brown bat is a larger than average species of bat. They have sleek brown fur over most of their bodies. The wingspan of the bat ranges between eleven and thirteen inches, the torso being no more than eight inches long. Female big brown bats are slightly larger than the males; despite their stature, even the largest specimens will rarely weigh above 5/8 an ounce. These bats are know to form maternity colonies, the numbers being far less than the little brown bat, which tends to form large groups.
The biology of the bats offers a variety of communication methods for the mammal; their nasal glands emit different chemical signals, and like other bats, are nocturnal animals, using echolocation while flying, allowing them to identify prey in mid-air.
Big Brown Bat Habitat
The living range of the big brown bat is quite vast; the species can adapt to the climates of most parts in North America, from northern Mexico to Canada. However, the big brown bat is most common in the north half of the USA, with fewer colonies in the southern states (mainly in Texas and Florida). The big brown bat shows a preference for roosting in areas closer to the water; they will also always look for somewhere dark and cool where they can sleep during the day. This means that they will often roost in caves and the attic spaces of buildings, and look for more secluded, quiet roosts for their hibernation.
The big brown bat is commonly a species found in more rural areas, but is highly adaptable and can survive in both urban or suburban areas with gardens and parks where insects are abundant
Diet
The big brown bat is an insectivore, eating almost any flying insect it can catch. For this purpose, the bats have 38 small, sharp teeth. Although the bat can catch many of these flying insects in its mouth, it will also net insects with its tail membrane. From there, it can then transfer the food into its mouth, all while flying. All of the bat’s hunting is done during twilight and in the night. Insects such as gnats, mosquitoes, midges, moths, and mayflies are all potential food. An efficient digestive system means that the big brown bat can eat up to 600 insects within one hour! Contrary to popular belief, these bats are not blind; they simply use echolocation to help them catch insects in the dark of night.
The Reproductive Cycle
The big brown bat mating season generally spans September and October, which is the period leading up to their hibernation. Mating usually happens as the bats swarm at the entrances of the hibernation roosts, although it is also known that a male waking during hibernation may also mate with a female during her hibernation. The sperm of the bats then stores until the spring, which is when fertilization happens. The females join large nursery colonies in the spring and give birth to one, sometimes two, young in June—July.
For the first few flights, the baby will often cling to the teat of its mother; although, after a few weeks, will then be left at the colony. After around a month, these young bats wean and become capable of flight; from here, the mother will depart from the nursery colonies. Females are often ready to breed after the first year, while the male will begin mating in the second. The big brown bat’s life can span over ten years in the wild!
White Nose Syndrome
Because of their tendency to roost in colonies, the bat population is particularly at risk of White Nose Syndrome. This is a fungal disease that has killed many thousands of bats in North America. We identify this fungus by the white traces left on the noses of a variety of species of bats (all of which live in caves). This disease has decimated many colonies of the Big Brown Bat.
Infestation Remedies
The most effective and safe method of bat control is an exclusion. This involves the process of sealing, caulking, screening, and/or venting all potential bat entry points on the exterior of the structure to evict the bats and prevent future entry. Removal is often done through the use of one-way exit devices that allow them to leave the structure but not re-enter.
Bat trapping is not a biologically sound method of eviction, one that we at Hogarth’s Pest Control and Wildlife Removal do not use or promote. Call us to set up an inspection of your structure today!
A fall nuisance, boxelder bugs get their common name from the fact that they are often found on and around boxelder trees. The species is native to the western states; however, they can live wherever boxelder trees are—from eastern Canada throughout the United States to eastern Nevada. The bugs are primarily a nuisance pest as they enter structures, including homes, sheds, and garages to overwinter.
Boxelder Bugs Appearance
Boxelder bugs are black with orange to reddish markings on their back. Adult boxelder bugs have somewhat-flattened and elongated oval bodies and are about one half of an inch in length. They have six legs and two, non-segmented antennae that are typically half of their body length. Nymphs look similar in shape to the adults but lack wings and are bright red.
Infestation Signs
Boxelder bugs generally become a problem in the fall (and when they emerge in the spring) when they invade structures. Like many pests that overwinter, homeowners may see evidence of these bugs as the temperatures rise. This is when the insects emerge and go back outdoors.
Habits
Overwintering boxelder bugs emerge from hibernation in late March to early April when the boxelder tree buds open. During this time, the adults leave their hibernation sites to return to their host trees for the warmer months. They first feed on fallen boxelder seeds, later moving to the female boxelder trees where they will feed on the newly developing leaves. Occasionally, boxelder bugs will also feed on apple and plum trees.
The adult females lay clusters of straw-yellow eggs on stones, eaves, grass, shrubs, and trees; but especially in crevices in the bark of boxelder trees. The eggs will turn red as the embryos develop, hatching in about two weeks. The nymphs will feed on fallen boxelder seeds and then on freshly budded leaves. There are most commonly two generations per year in the warmer regions of the United States.
Threats
Inside, boxelder bugs are primarily just a nuisance pest; however, their fecal material can cause a red stain on curtains, drapes, clothing, etc. When crushed or handled roughly, boxelder bugs also produce a sharp, disagreeable odor.
Habitat
In autumn, boxelder bugs become gregarious and assemble on the south-facing side of trees, rocks, and buildings where the sun hits. After gathering in large masses, they will migrate to nearby homes or other structures to hibernate. They tend to hide in small crevices or cracks in walls to insulate themselves from the cold. In anywhere from late March to April, adults will leave their overwintering sites to return to their host trees for the warmer months.
Boxelder bugs are not known biters, but their piercing/sucking mouthparts can occasionally puncture the skin, producing a red spot similar to that of a mosquito bite.
How To Get Rid Of Boxelder Bugs
To prevent a boxelder bug infestation in your home or structure(s), be sure to repair holes in screens, seal crevices and cracks with a good quality silicone or silicone-latex caulk, and install door sweeps to all exterior entrances.
When getting rid of a boxelder bug infestation in homes or buildings, you should not make any attempt to eradicate them in wall voids. Insect carcasses can attract dermestid beetles (ie., carpet beetles, larder beetles, etc.). We recommend waiting until summer when all live adults have left the wall voids. To provide temporary relief, consider using a vacuum cleaner to get rid of the boxelder bugs. You should remove the bag to prevent the pests from escaping. Then, be sure to seal up all entryways into the living space – window and door frames, cracks in the baseboards, etc. – to prevent any future infestation. Remove the cover plate, seal and replace outlets, heating ducts, switch boxes, and air vents for electrical fixtures. For lights and ceiling fans, remove the fixture to its base plate, seal, and replace.
If you suspect a boxelder bug infestation, a licensed pest control professional should be contacted to evaluate and assess the problem.
There’s so much to love about the early fall months; fresh apples, donuts and cider, flowers, colorful hikes, camping, and so much more— however, one of the most significant negatives of the first warm fall months is fruit flies. We’ve written about these nuisances before, but the continued warm temperatures in Northern Michigan have seemingly allowed infestations to maintain. And if you’re like us, you love the goodness of having fresh fruit available and that glass of wine to enjoy without the hassle of these aggressive pests, so, we thought we would offer some DIY methods in curbing the seemingly endless issue.
Unfortunately for homeowners, the average natural life span of fruit fly adults (in optimal temperatures) is forty to fifty days. Females have the capability to mate and lay several batches of eggs in that time, which allows the fruit fly population inside of a home to multiply quickly.
Now, many commercial traps can aid in ridding your home of them, and we even offer them to customers. That being said, there are also some natural and effective remedies that you can do by using goodies found in your pantry that’s inexpensive and effective.
Keep in mind, however, that to curb an infestation, it is imperative to start at the source. Ensuring any houseplants you may have are potted in high-quality soil, maintaining clean drains, keeping all areas dry, washing dirty dishes, and keeping trash receptacles tightly closed are all effective methods. If these efforts remain unsuccessful, it may be time to seek out other options.
Below, we’ll share some at-home methods that are proven effective if you’re experiencing a visit with those pesky rascals.
Apple Cider Vinegar
ACV is genuinely a heaven send for attracting fruit flies. They absolutely cannot stay away from it. Mixing the vinegar with a few drops of dish soap is a timeless method in trapping and killing the flies.
Essential Oils & Herbs
Basil, peppermint, and eucalyptus are a few of the herbs that help to deter fruit flies. Placing these in tea bags or muslin sacks and hanging them around the house can help to prevent them.
Lavender, camphor, (be very cautious with this one), peppermint, clove, and lemongrass essential oils deter fruit flies as well. They simply can’t stand the smell. Dab some cotton balls and wipe the oils around the home, especially in the kitchen area, and deter them all while making your home smell naturally amazing. Another method is dipping tea bags into essential oil blends and hanging around the home.
Beer & Wine
It’s no wonder why these pests like a good glass now and then. Fruit flies are lushes of a sort and love the smell of red wine, and it will draw them in very rapidly! So, a small glass of leftover wine used to trap them, similar to the apple cider vinegar method, works exceptionally well with attracting, trapping, and killing the fruit flies. Beer is a close second, which is no wonder why you will find hoards of them buzzing around your recycling. The same method words for beer as well, so whichever beverage you have handy should do the trick.
Fruits
Place jam, jellies, or ripened fruit (especially bananas) into a jar covered with plastic wrap to attract the fruit flies.
Incense
Fruit flies hate all smoke but especially smoke from incense—their bodies can’t handle inhaling it. When they inhale, they die fairly quickly, which can help leave you fruit fly-free.
Closing Tips
Keeping fresh fruit refrigerated, reducing any standing water including in vases, as fruit flies are attracted to the sugar water in most flower arrangements, and getting rid of any rotting fruit (the yeast is where they lay their larvae).
If all else fails, there is hope on the horizon as fall progresses. Studies show that at 60°F, the lifespan of fruit flies significantly decreases. When the temperatures fall below 53°F, these flies stop developing entirely. While the first frost may not seem like something to look forward to for many of us, those experiencing a fruit fly infestation can rest assured that these unwanted houseguests will soon be gone— until next year, that is!
During the late summer and fall and also in late winter/early spring months, the invasion of flying yellow or reddish-brown to black ants is common. Also known as citronella ants, the winged female swarmers are golden-yellow while the males are black. Their nickname is the citronella ant because when crushed or alarmed, it gives off a pronounced citronella or lemon verbena-like odor. Homeowners often fear that these 3.0 mm to 5.0 mm long-winged insects are termites. However, in most cases, they are usually reproductives of either the smaller or larger yellow ant.
Although there is one species of subterranean termite living in Michigan that will swarm in the fall months, most termite swarms are active March to late May. This necessitates knowing the difference between the flying ants and flying termite species.
Antennae: Termites have beaded antennae similar to keychains; flying ants have elbowed antennae with the bend at or near the middle.
Wings: Termites have four wings, all equally lengthed and almost twice the length of their thorax. Though ants also have four wings, their hind wings are shorter than the front wings and are not twice the body length. Also, ant wings have prominent wing venation. The wings of termites have no prominent veins and resemble milk glass.
Body shape: Ants have a three-segmented body, with their waists constricting like an hourglass between each segment. Flying termites have two body segments without the constricted waist.
In most instances, termites shed their wings shortly after swarming.
Habits
Citronella ants typically nest outside next to foundations or under concrete or wooden slabs. They survive almost exclusively on honeydew, which is a sweet material made by root-feeding mealybugs or aphids. Therefore, workers seldom invade homes or structures in search of food in contrast to many other ant species. However, they may cause problems by pushing dirt through cracks in foundations and slabs. The winged yellow ants can and do cause concern when flying into living quarters, creating a termite-like fright. Also, a very large number of yellow ant reproductives (with wings) and the smaller workers (without wings) may congregate on the side of a building on a mild fall to an early spring day, which can also cause a scare.
Tips for Control
Colonies do not require professional pest control unless the swarmers enter a home or structure. Even in these cases, treatment may not be possible because it is difficult to know precisely where the colony is located beneath the structure. Sealing all cracks in the floor where the swarmers enter can stop the swarm from entering a home or building, but the ants will likely find other cracks. Any treatment of extreme cases will involve drilling and treating beneath the slab, thus requiring the services of an experienced professional.
Fall pests can be a real mood-wrecker. Cold weather brings everyone indoors, including some of the more undesirable houseguests. Snuggling up on the sofa with a pair of fuzzy slippers and a blanket wrapped around your shoulders can be a comforting feeling— until something scurries across the living room floor.
Unfortunately, your family may not be the only ones enjoying the warmth of your home. Pests such as mice, cockroaches, flies, and certain species of spiders have life cycles that last longer than a year; meaning they must find shelter during the winter months to survive. Apart from being creepy-crawly, these pests can pose serious risks to both people and homes.
When making their nests in walls, rodents often chew on drywall and electrical wires, and they are known to pass on diseases including Hantavirus and salmonella. Cockroaches will leave droppings around the home, contaminate stored food, and, especially in children, can even trigger asthma. On top of it all, some spiders commonly found in and around homes are poisonous.
Below are ten pest-proofing tips that every homeowner can follow to more effectively keep pests outside during the fall and winter:
Installing screens on attic vents and openings to chimneys, as well as keeping an eye on any other areas where the home may be open to the elements, such as animal doors and mail slots.
Keep attics, crawl spaces, and basements dry and well-ventilated. Pests are attracted to areas with an abundance of moisture, which is something they need to survive. Running dehumidifiers in garages and basements will help to keep these areas dry.
Caulk and seal any noticeable cracks and crevices on the outside of the home. Be especially mindful of the areas where utility pipes enter the structure. Keep in mind that many rodents can fit through a dime-sized hole.
Keep kitchen counters clean, dispose of garbage regularly in sealed receptacles, and store food in airtight containers. A buildup of trash and crumbs are an attractant to pests scavenging for a bite to eat. We recommend properly cleaning up and disposing of all waste after meals and to ensure garbage cans remain closed when they are stored inside of the home or outbuilding.
Replacing weather-stripping and repairing loose mortar around the foundation and windows is another means. Both are simple ways to keep not only pests but also cold air from entering the home.
Keep shrubbery well-trimmed and store firewood at least 20 feet away from the house. By merely removing areas where pests can hide near your home, you can significantly reduce the chance of them finding a way ins.
Install door sweeps and always repair damaged screens. Cracks under doors and torn window screens are ideal entry points for most household pests. When you open a window with a damaged screen, you are likely allowing more than just fresh air to enter.
Inspect items such as package deliveries, boxes of decorations, and grocery bags before bringing them inside. Pests often find creative ways to enter a home. Shake out and thoroughly inspect anything that has been left or stored outside or in the garage.
Avoid leaving pet dishes outdoors for prolonged periods. Pests will not discriminate between cat food and human food. Dishes that have been left sitting outside are extremely attractive to all kinds of rodents and insects.
Have and maintain a proper drainage system on the exterior of your home. Installing gutters or making repairs an existing system will help to draw water and moisture away from your home, which prevents any leaks or build-up that may attract unwanted houseguests (is not effective for in-laws, though!).
Following these pest-proofing tips in the fall when the temperature begins to drop is the most effective way to protect your home and prevent any pest infestation during the winter months. However, if you think you have a pre-existing pest infestation, be sure to contact a pest control or wildlife professional to assess the situation.
Opossums are North America’s only marsupial. They live everywhere except for the Rocky Mountains, plains of the west, and areas in the northernmost region. Opossums live in solidarity and are mostly nocturnal. They are distant relatives of the kangaroo; however, opossums are much slower and produce a nauseating smell when threatened. The opossum can survive in a wide range of conditions and locations due to their flexible diets and reproductive tendencies. If you are potentially dealing with an infestation, removal should be handled by a professional.
Opossums can reach up to 40 inches in length, which is about the size of the average housecat. Their bodies are covered in grayish-white hair. Opossums have a narrow, pointed face with hairless ears and a bald, rat-like tail. Additionally, the female opossum has a pouched stomach for holding their young.
Although the general public may use the terms “opossum” and “possum” interchangeably, they are different. A possum is a term used to describe a marsupial found in New Zealand, Australia, and China though they happen to be similar in appearance.
Habits
As mentioned before, opossums are nocturnal marsupials, which means that they are mainly active after dark. They are typically known to live in solidarity when they are not actively breeding. Though they prefer to travel by land, opossums are also skilled swimmers and can use their opposable rear thumbs and long tails to climb trees and other structures effectively.
Opossums enjoy a diet of grains, fruits, and insects, but will also eat out of garbage cans, compost piles, and pet food dishes if easily accessible. They will even eat fish, birds, and other mammals if need be.
Opossums usually bear two to three litters each year, with an average of seven young per litter. Like many marsupials, the newborn young spend their first several weeks of life in their mother’s pouch. After this period, young opossums will leave their mothers in search of their own home.
Opossums do not hibernate through the winter. Their greatest challenge, especially in colder climates, is simply to survive. In many cases, opossums will alter their foraging and sleeping habits during the winter months, coming out during the day instead. It is not uncommon for opossums in northern states to suffer from frostbite during these frigid periods. Their tails are particularly susceptible to frostbite as they have no fur to protect them.
Habitat
Opossums will seek out pre-existing structures such as hollow logs, tree cavities, brush piles, garages, or animal burrows when looking for a place to live. They are partial to environments near swamps or streams but also can survive in diverse areas, ranging from moist to arid, open fields to forests. Opossums will always prefer to make a home with proximity to water and food.
Threats
Though not dangerous to humans, opossums do cause somewhat of a structural risk. Opossums can den in garages and attics where they will construct a messy nest. They can also tear insulation and ductwork if they gain access to the interior of a home. When searching for food, they can also damage lawns. Opossums may destroy the nests of game birds and poultry. When startled, they tend to bare their sharp teeth and hiss.
Although the lifestyle habits and overall appearance of opossums make them seem like prime hosts for rabies, they are not. Their body temperature is too low to house the disease, and it is only in rare cases that they can contract it. However, opossums can carry an array of other conditions; this includes, but is not limited to, leptospirosis, tularemia, and tuberculosis. They may also become infested with mites and fleas, especially in urban regions.
Opossums have been known to “play possum” when startled or harmed; this can give a witness the impression that the opossum is diseased. They play possum by drawing back their lips, baring their teeth, producing saliva and foaming around their mouth, as well as secreting a foul-smelling substance from the glands of their anus. Rather than a sign of disease, this act is a natural defense mechanism. In other moments of extreme distress, opossums are known to play dead.
Opossum Removal
To prevent an opossum from shacking up in a home or other structure, homeowners should always store trash and compost in sealed bins with animal-proof lids, preferably in a locked shed or outbuilding. It is good practice to bring pet food dishes inside at night to avoid attracting not only opossums but other nuisance wildlife as well. Homeowners should also remove other apparent sources of food from the property, such as fallen berries and fruits. It is imperative to inspect the outside of the home or structure(s) for holes and access points, such as broken vent covers. To further limit opossum accessibility to a home, tree branches hanging near roofing should be trimmed, as opossums are skilled climbers and leapers.
If you suspect an opossum infestation in your home, contact a licensed pest control professional to conduct an inspection and work with you to develop an opossum treatment plan. Opossum removal techniques, such as traps and fencing, may be used. A professional can also provide more helpful opossum facts that can help prevent future infestations.
The brown marmorated stink bug, otherwise abbreviated as BMSB, is an invasive species; as it was introduced to the US from Eastern Asia in the mid-90s. It is also known as the East Asian or yellow-brown stink bug. The BMSB was first collected in the United States in Allentown, PA in the fall of 1996, but was not identified until years later in 2001. From there, it quickly spread east. Today, BMSB has been identified in 44 states including Washington DC. The stink bug’s native range includes China, Japan, Korea, and Taiwan.
Stink Bug Odor
BMSB is aptly named by the odor they emit when they feel threatened. It is thought that this odor aids in protecting against predators. The bugs produce the smelly chemical in a gland on their abdomen. Some species can actually spray the several chemical inches. The smell has often been compared to potent herbs like cilantro.
Interestingly enough, the composition of the odor is comprised of chemicals commonly used as food additives and is actually present in cilantro. This smell can linger for hours so it is in your best interest to try to avoid the bugs or carefully sweep or vacuum them up if they have entered your house.
Physical Attributes
Stink bugs are characterized in several different ways. They are described as “large and oval-shaped” and “shield-shaped”. Adult BMSB can reach almost 2 cm in length and are almost as wide as they are long. Their legs extend from their sides, which makes adult bugs appear even larger. The BMSB is brownish in color with lighter bands on their antennae and darker bands on their wings.
Adult stink bugs are strong fliers and fold their wings on top of their body when they land. The wings of nymphs are not fully developed but they do appear as they become an adult. Mature wings are an identifier of adults.
The nymphs are very tiny when they first hatch and are yellow and red in color. As they mature the yellow fades to white. Nymphs have bright red eyes during this stage of their lifecycle. They molt or shed their skin 5 times as they mature. Nymphs become larger each time they molt. By their final molt, the nymphs are almost as large as adult stink bugs.
Habits
In general, adult BMSB feed on fruits and the nymphs feed on leaves, stems, and fruit. The life cycle of BMSB typically involves mating, then reproducing, and feeding from the spring months to late the fall. Upon the cold temperatures, stink bugs seek shelter to spend the winter in a dormant phase known as ‘diapause’.
BMSB search for overwintering sites in late fall before the weather conditions change drastically. They spend the winter in diapause inside homes or buildings, usually within the walls, attics or crawl spaces. However, diapause may not be the total competition of their season. If the weather warms up for long enough, overwintering stink bugs may be misled in thinking it is time to exit diapause and become active once again. Stink bugs will then reemerge in early spring and become active.
BMSB mate and create up to 3 generations per year depending on their habitat. Colder areas only see one generation each year, whereas warmer areas will likely see two or three. Stink bug females typically lay 20 to 30 eggs. These eggs are light green and barrel-shaped, attached side-by-side in a mass on the underside of a host plant’s leaves. The eggs will hatch within four to five days and from there the nymphs will begin to feed.
Signs of an Infestation
In most cases, homeowners will first detect stink bugs by their large invasions in the fall months. Finding large numbers of living or dead stink bugs is also a sign of an infestation. Stink bugs will show themselves on sunny sides of homes where they enjoy warming themselves. Farmers often detect an infestation by the damage caused to their crops.
Threats
The BMSB cannot sting and is also unlikely to bite humans or animals. The stink bug’s mouthparts are grouped into the piercing/sucking category, but they do not use blood as a food source like mosquitoes, bed bugs, or biting flies. Their mouths are not structured in a manner that allows them to bite through human skin.
Stink bugs are relatively harmless to humans, though they do have the potential to spread throughout the country. This could result in harm to the agricultural industry, as they destroy crops. BMSB can cause damage to fruit trees, ornamental plants, and gardens, but they are more of a nuisance pest than an actual threat to humans. They do not spread disease or cause structural damage.
To avoid a potential infestation of these pests, proper exclusion is of the utmost importance. Hogarth’s is well-versed in varying types of exclusion for residential and commercial properties. We will seal entrance holes around pipes, windows, ridge vent and soffits. It is important to note that exclusion alone will not always fix the issue; the home will need to be treated to keep every BMSB away from the structure. Call us today!
Raccoons are medium-sized mammals that are about 2-3 feet in length. They have round, stocky bodies and their coats are made of salt-and-pepper colored fur. Raccoons are known best for the “bandit mask” of black fur around their eyes, and black rings around their fluffy tails. They have a 5-fingered paw with opposable thumbs, allowing extreme cheekiness.
Nicknamed “coons” for short, we rarely spot these mammals during the day because of their nocturnal lifestyle. Raccoons live throughout the United States but have become increasingly common in the forested eastern portions.
Habitat and Diet
Raccoons prefer to live in forest areas close to a body of water. Although commonly in association with water and trees, we also find them around farmsteads and livestock watering areas. Typically these mammals like to den in ground burrows, brush piles, hollow trees, muskrat dens and runs, abandoned buildings and barns, dense clumps of cattail, haystacks, and crevices in rocks. They are also notorious for overtaking parts of homes, including attics, chimnies, and hollow areas beneath porches to make dens.
Raccoons are omnivorous, which means they consume both plants and other animal meat. This includes berries, fruits, nuts, frogs, fish, crayfish, mussels, insects, turtles, mice, rabbits, muskrats, and even bird eggs. Raccoons usually have one litter of young each year, usually born in late spring or early summer. One litter can yield between three and five young, called kits. They can live for 12 years in the wild and even longer in captivity. They do not hibernate per se but do become inactive during severe winter weather.
Signs of a Raccoon Infestation
There are both visual and audible signs of identifying a raccoon infestation. Damage to a home’s shingles, insulation, lumber, electrical wiring, walls and other parts of the structure are telltale signs that a raccoon has taken up residence. Another indication of an infestation is the presence of scat, stains from urine, or nesting materials.
Additionally, raccoons often ransack and make a mess of garbage in cans while they search for food. If a homeowner notices trash randomly dispersed about the property, raccoons could be to blame. Pawprints may also be visible throughout the property.
In some cases, raccoons will destroy bird nests, kill poultry, and cause damage to gardens and agricultural crops, so any signs of these types of activities can also mean there is an infestation. Hearing loud thuds and noises from movement can also signify a homeowner may have raccoons in the home.
Dangers of Raccoons
While not all raccoons carry rabies, they are major hosts of the rabies virus throughout the United States, especially in the eastern states where their populations are continuously increasing. It is important to note that just because you see an active raccoon during the daytime, it does not necessarily signify it is rabid. That being said, there are key indicators that a raccoon may be infected with the rabies virus. Key symptoms of a rabid raccoon include apparent confusion and disorientation, wet and tangled looking hair, leg paralysis or difficulty walking, significant aggression, and production of loud, strange noises. Rabid raccoons are likely to foam at the mouth and have watery eyes.
In addition to the rabies virus, there are other harmful diseases that raccoons can carry and potentially transmit to humans; this includes roundworm, an intestinal parasite. Roundworm transmitted through unintentionally ingesting one of their microscopic eggs.
Raccoons also pose a severe threat to property. They will damage homes and other structures, especially when they try to enter through chimneys or attics that they target as potential den sites. Raccoons can even tear off shingles or boards to gain access to an attic or wall space as they have opposable thumbs.
How to Get Rid of Racoons
There are numerous precautions that homeowners may take to try to avoid a raccoon infestation from taking afoot. Firstly, raccoons can gain access into homes through holes, uncapped chimneys, broken vents, and other openings near/on the roof, which is why homeowners should regularly inspect these potential points of entry. Loose shingles and siding should also be repaired upon noticing. It is also helpful to have a licensed wildlife technician (if your builder hasn’t) install a chimney cap or mesh cover over exposed openings to prevent the animals from entering.
Homeowners should always store trash in sealed areas or containers, ideally in a locked shed, garage, or outbuilding. Raccoons are very cheeky and are easily able to open garbage cans; if they are left out in the open, it is imperative to have tightly fitting lids to avoid attention from hungry raccoons. Homeowners should also remove bird seed, feeders, and fountains, as they are sources of sustenance to raccoons. Likewise, brush, built-up debris, and leaves can serve as perfect hiding spots and dwellings for raccoons; it’s essential to rid the yard of these piles regularly. Also, consider storing firewood, which raccoons can use to build a shelter, at least 20 feet from the house during the colder seasons.
If you suspect an infestation and require additional information, contact a licensed pest professional to properly inspect the property and buildings. From there, they will formulate a plan to get rid of the raccoons. Please note that homeowners should not attempt to address an infestation themselves, especially since these mammals may be rabid or carrying raccoon roundworm and other diseases as mentioned above.
Contrary to popular belief, there is a variety of species of common flies. In fact, there are over 20,000 in North America alone! While we’d thoroughly enjoy discussing the differences between all of the fly species, we wanted to focus on the two we deal with most regularly— the house fly and the cluster fly.
House Flies
The house fly is by far one of the most common pests we find in and around homes. It has a worldwide distribution and is extremely prominent throughout the US. We consider these insects to be not only nuisance pests while buzzing in and around homes— but they also have the potential to carry diseases. They have relatively brief lifespans; however, they have the ability to quickly reproduce in numbers, leading to large house fly populations if not properly identified and effectively controlled.
House flies are usually grey in color and have four black stripes on their thorax. Adults are about 1/8-1/4 inches long. They have slightly hairy bodies, a single pair of wings and compound red eyes, which contain thousands of individual lenses that give them broader vision. Female house flies are usually larger in size than males and they do not have teeth or a stinger.
Housefly eggs closely resemble grains of rice; these eggs will hatch into larvae, or maggots, that range in size from about ¼-3/8” long. Maggots are cream in color and appear to be greasy. When entering the pupal stage, maggots become dark and develop hard outer shells, as well as legs and wings, ultimately emerging as full-grown adult flies.
Signs of an infestation
The most common sign of a housefly infestation is the physical presence of the flies themselves. You may also see larvae crawling out of their breeding material as they pupate. Along with seeing the insects, people may hear them around the home. House flies produce buzzing sounds which are a result of their two wings beating together.
If you suspect to have a house fly infestation in your home, it is important to contact a licensed pest control professional in order to conduct a proper inspection, specifically looking for any places where house fly eggs deposit. Since house flies enter from the outdoors, internal breeding sites are uncommon. However, garbage rooms and trash compactors provide an ideal environment for house fly breeding and should be routinely checked. If the breeding site(s) are not thoroughly cleaned or removed, the problems with these pests will persist.
Once the breeding site has been remediated, eliminating the existing adult flies is the next step. A pest control professional will develop a treatment plan based on the circumstances of the infestation; this may include the use of fly bait, applications, or traps.
To prevent a house fly infestation from occurring in the first place, vigilant and constant sanitation is a necessity. Regularly removing trash and using adequately sealed garbage receptacles can help to deter any house flies from residing around waste bins. Additionally, pet waste must be taken care of immediately to prevent the development of any further breeding sites. Finally, all doors and windows should have fine mesh screens in order to avoid house flies from entering the home. If screens are already present, make sure there are no visible rips or tears.
Cluster Flies
Cluster flies, on the other hand, are slightly larger and thinner than house flies at 3/8 of an inch in size. They are a dull grey in color (not metallic like some other fly species) with golden hairs on the thorax and a grey checkerboard pattern on the abdomen. When resting, their wings usually overlap over their backs. If you crush cluster flies they may smell sweet, like honey!
These flies have a unique life cycle. The larvae live in soil where they are internal parasites of earthworms. Consequently, structures with large lawns or those near fields are more likely to have problems with overwintering cluster flies. There are four generations a year, but we only consider the late-season adults as pests as they move inside structures in late summer or fall. Adults feed on flowers and are not attracted to garbage, feces or dead animals.
Cluster flies are slow-moving, especially when they become active indoors on warm winter days (when the heat fluctuates) or in early spring as they look for a way outside. They head for light and often end up clustered around windows or in ceiling light fixtures.
We can control cluster flies by creating barriers in mid-to-late-summer to prevent their entry: treatment of the exterior with a repellent residual, as well as pest-proofing of openings, especially around the roofline. It’s critical to time the residual application before fly entry in your area.
Once the flies are inside, control is difficult, and results are often disappointing. Avoid killing them in inaccessible voids because the dead flies can attract beetles. Vacuuming, sticky traps, and light traps can remove wandering flies.
Signs of an infestation
During the cold winter months, cluster flies often congregate around windows or doors on warm days or when the heat is increased, prompting frantic calls for service. Controlling cluster flies indoors can be difficult as populations are frequently hiding in hard-to-reach voids or attics. Indoor insecticide applications are often impractical and result in large numbers of dead flies that are attractive to secondary pests such as carpet beetles. Usually, exclusion is the best solution but should be complete by the early autumn, before the insects make their way indoors.
Completely sealing every entry point is difficult, especially because cluster flies enter near the roofline through soffit or ridge vents. Exterior surface applications of appropriate repellent insecticides can be helpful in deterring them, but applications should be made before aggregations of flies begin to appear on the building. In many cases, we instruct clients to vacuum any carcasses popping up in homes.
No matter the fly, Hogarth’s Pest Control and Wildlife Removal has the skillset to not only curb an infestation but the necessary exclusion and clean-up work required to keep any home fly-free. If you have noticed an issue with house or cluster flies in your home or business, please give us a call. We have been keeping Northern Michigan homes free of these pests for 25 years!
Beavers or Castor Canadensis are giant, primarily nocturnal mammals. They are brown and have a long, leathery flattened tail that acts as a rudder in the water. Their teeth are yellow and curved, which they use to gnaw through wood. If they do not chew, their teeth will continue to grow until they break through their skulls. Chewing is imperative to their survival! Beavers played a significant role in Michigan’s early history. The beaver and the coureur des bois who traded their pelts and helped the Great Lakes region grow. Since the decline of the fur trade in Michigan, property owners have experienced an uptick in beaver related damage to homes and bodies of water.
Beaver Anatomy
They are the largest rodent in North America and can weigh over 60 pounds. They are America’s largest rodent and the third-largest in the world, often reaching lengths of 3.5 ft! Their body is well adapted to their aquatic world but also allows them the ability to waddle about a forest habitat in search of trees to fell. Their tails are flat, broad, flexible, and very muscular; serving as a prop when gnawing down trees. Their tails also function as a four-way rudder, and their large hind feet are completely webbed, which helps to propel them along, as well as adds strength to their ability to pull logs underwater. Their delicate forepaws are incredibly dexterous and function so well as ‘hands’ that they can carry small branches, mud, and even stones. Beavers have amazing construction abilities, using their incisors to fell trees, and their forepaws to construct dams.
Habitat
Beavers spend most of their time foraging along the banks of rivers and streams, and this is where people most often spot them. However, if there are no rivers readily available, beavers have no issue taking up residence in any body of water with banks suitable for their survival. Beavers burrow into th3e banks to make their dens; the entrances to these burrows are in a portion of the bank that submerges and angles, so the living quarters can be deep inside the bank while still above the water level.
If a beaver builds its dam too close to the ground’s surface, it may not have enough overhead support and can collapse. In the winter, when food is scarce, predators such as bears and wolf can dig into the den if it is not far enough underground. The problem is that many banks are not suitable for this type of excavation. Beavers will address this problem by mounding sticks over the den and piling mud on top of the sticks. During winter, the mud freezes, creating a rugged and durable barrier that protects the den.
Dams and Lodges
They construct dams and lodges out of sticks, mud, and logs on the banks of rivers and other bodies of water. The primary function of a beaver dam is to provide deep, still water to protect against any predators as well as to float building materials and sustenance. They may build multiple in the same river! Beaver lodges serve as their shelter, and they fashion them out of the same materials as the dams. Each summer, mature beavers will mud the exterior of the lodge so that it will freeze providing warmth and protection. Throughout the years, their population has declined severely due to hunting for their fur and glands (which is where castor oil comes from). Their hunting season is in the fall, but special permits can be granted in the off-season.
We most often receive calls from property owners experiencing issues due to beaver damage of trees and flooding of waterways, which interferes with land uses. This can cause devastating structural and landscaping damage if untreated. We specialize in the trapping and removal of these animals, so call us to set up an inspection today!
If you have seen small flies or gnat-like insects in your kitchen, odds are they are most likely fruit flies. Fruit flies are a year-round issue; however, they are especially common during late summer and fall months. This is primarily because they are most attracted to ripe, fermenting (rotting) fruits and vegetables. Fruit flies have oval bodies with six legs. Adults are about 1/8 inch in size and usually have red eyes. The front section of the body is tan, and the rear part is black. They feed on decaying food items, especially fruits and vegetables.
Melons, tomatoes, grapes, squash, and other perishable items from the garden are often the cause of an indoor infestation. Fruit flies thrive on rotting, unrefrigerated produce from the supermarket as well.
Biology
We find fruit flies most commonly in homes, restaurants, grocery stores, and wherever food can rot. Female fruit flies lay their eggs near the surface of rotting foods or on other moist, organic materials. Upon hatching, the small larvae continue to feed near the surface of the rotting item. This surface-feeding characteristic is significant; the affected over-ripe parts of the vegetables and fruits may be cut away without having to discard the entire piece out of fear of containing any developing larvae. Fruit flies reproduce like wildfire, notorious for laying up to 500 eggs at any given time! The entire lifecycle from egg to adult completes within seven days. All that is necessary for development is a moist film of fermenting material.
Behavior
Though fruit flies are especially attracted to ripened fruits and vegetables in the kitchen or pantry, they will also breed in trash cans, drains, garbage disposals, empty bottles and cans, mops, and cleaning rags. Infestations can enter the home via previously rotting or fermenting fruits and vegetables, or empty bottles and cans.
That being said, adults can also fly in from outside through windows and doors with inadequate screens. For those who live or work near orchards, even the cleanest home may still experience a fruit fly issue due to all of the rotting fruit. One of the best and most straightforward solutions is to keep a fan blowing at the most frequently used door. This works toward keeping the flies outside because, due to their tiny stature, they are unable to fly against the force of the wind.
This trick actually works with most fly species because they aren’t strong enough to fly against the blowing air. The primary issue associated with fruit flies is that they are nuisance pests. However, their excrement also has the potential to contaminate food with their bacteria and other disease-producing organisms.
Prevention
The most effective method to avoid a fruit fly infestation is to eliminate sources of attraction. Produce should be eaten, discarded, or refrigerated upon ripening. Cracked, bruised, or otherwise damaged portions of fruits and vegetables should be cut away and dumped– especially if eggs or larvae are present in the affected area. A single rotting potato or onion at the back of a pantry or sticky fruit juice under a refrigerator is breeding ground for thousands of fruit flies. In addition, full and unclean trash or recycling bins are also ideal locations.
People who can fruits and vegetables, or make their own beer, cider, or wine should ensure that the containers are well sealed. Otherwise, fruit flies will lay their eggs under the lid, and the tiny larvae will enter the container upon hatching. Equip windows and doors with tight-fitting (16 mesh) screens to help prevent adult fruit flies from entering from outdoors.
Eradication
Once a structure is infested with fruit flies, all potential breeding areas must be located and eliminated. Unless the breeding sites are removed or cleaned, the problem will continue no matter how often one applies insecticides. Finding the source(s) of attraction and breeding can be very challenging and usually will require much thought and persistence. We often suggest personal eradication attempts right off the bat because a small infestation can be easy to nip in the bud. Potential breeding sites that are not easily accessible to humans (i.e., garbage disposals and drains) can be inspected by taping a clear plastic food storage bag over the opening overnight. If flies are breeding in these areas, the adults will emerge and enter the container.
A better approach, however, is to construct a trap by placing a paper funnel (or roll a sheet of notebook paper) into a jar that contains a few ounces of cider vinegar. Place the jar trap(s) wherever fruit flies are buzzing about. This simple but effective trap will soon catch any remaining adult flies which can then be killed or released outdoors.
If you exhaust your personal attempts and still can’t seem to shake a fruit fly problem, Hogarth’s can inspect your property and assist in eradicating the issue completely.
More closely related to the yellowjacket wasp than actual hornets, bald-faced hornets get their name from their mostly black bodies and stark white faces. They classify as hornets rather than wasps because of their size and aerial nests. Queen bald-faced hornets are larger than their adult-worker counterparts. Bald-faced hornets are social insects, although they are not true hornets. They are most noticeably active during the day and live in colonies that may contain between 100 and 400 members at their largest.
They construct their nests of a grey, paper-like substance; these nests are enclosed, unlike the cone-shaped structures of other stinging hornets and insects, such as yellowjackets and paper wasps. These nests will be at least three or more feet off of the ground and are most commonly found in bushes, trees, utility poles, on overhangs, sheds, and houses. The nests can reach up to 14 inches in diameter and more than 24 inches long!
Dangers of Bald-faced Hornets
The stings of bald-faced hornets are venomous and painful, and the sites may swell and itch up to one full day. Because of this, humans run the risk of allergic reactions from bald-faced hornet stings as with other insect stings. These are aggressive insects that will attack anything that invades their space; making them quite unlike other stinging insects that typically only sting when they feel exceptionally threatened. These factors make the removal, which you should always leave to a professional for safety purposes, somewhat tricky. Their stingers are short and smooth, so they can sting repeatedly; whereas other stinging insects with barbed stingers, such as honeybees, are only able to attack once before their stinger physically rips off.
Homeowners will begin to notice bald-faced hornets in late summer when the populations are at their largest. Males hatch from unfertilized eggs to impregnate the new females for the next year’s season in the late summer months. The inseminated hornets are the only ones that overwinter when the temperatures cool, while the remaining, uninseminated members die off. In the following spring and summer, the process repeats. Unlike other nest-building insects, bald-faced hornets do not reuse their nests year after year—the new members will rebuild them each year using fresh materials.
How To Avoid An Attack
Avoiding contact with these insects at all costs is key to preventing the painful attacks. Homeowners should seal up any tiny holes or cracks where bald-faced hornets are able to enter when seeking shelter. In addition, keeping food covered at all times, especially when outdoors, will help keep the hornets at bay. When spending time outdoors, you should avoid wearing strong perfumes or products with fragrances and opt for unscented products instead. Likewise, you should wear footwear that covers and protects feet from rogue hornets.
If you find what you assume to be a bald-faced hornet nest on your home or property, it is imperative that you do NOT make any attempt to remove it on your own. This can aggravate the colony, which will cause the hornets to attack and sting. Contacting a licensed pest control professional about proper hornet removal to avoid the risk of bald-faced hornet stings is the safest and most effective method.
Unfortunately for bald-faced hornets, they do not serve any real purpose like the honey bee; also, they do not pollinate plants. Hogarth’s Pest Control and Wildlife Removal can effectively and efficiently remove these types of hives from your property. Please give us a call if you happen to find one of these nests throughout the summer.
When many picture a bee, the first species that comes to mind is often the bumblebee. The same goes for wood-boring insects; many assume them to be termites. What many do not expect is that there is a species of bee that bores into wood. Carpenter bees, like their relative the bumblebee, are large, black and yellow insects whose life only spans up to a year. Female carpenter bees rarely sting, only when provoked, and males completely lack the ability to. They are, however, quite territorial and are typically the gender that most people come into contact. Males will hover closely to people and structures, especially attracted to sudden movements, but do no more than create unnecessary fear. Though not particularly harmful to humans, carpenter bees can be a significant threat to wooden structures, affecting their integrity.
Found throughout the US, bees bore into raw wood and deck timbers, especially if it is weathered or has starter holes. As a result, a large number of bees can cause damage to log and wood-sided structures. In the case of thinner wood, such as siding, this damage can be severe. Contrary to popular belief, these bees do not eat the wood; they chew and live within it. Since they do not actually eat the wood they bore into, nectar from flowering plants is their primary food source. Some say that painting or staining wood will help to deter them, but they are known to damage that on occasion as well. The first signs of carpenter bee damage include small, smooth holes. A more advanced infestation may also include physically seeing bees hovering around the wood.
Carpenter Bee Nests
Unlike other common bees, such as honeybees, that live in colonies, carpenter bees are not social and build individual nests into trees or into the eaves, frames, or sides of buildings. Adult carpenter bees will overwinter in abandoned tunnels where they have stored pollen. The bees that survive the cold months will emerge when the temperatures warm up to feed on nectar, mate and make new nests, called galleries. Reused galleries expand every year, and some have been known to grow up to 10 ft in length.
The female makes large, open rooms to lay her eggs in off of the main gallery, called cells. She will ensure that each cell has enough pollen and regurgitated nectar for her developing young to feed. She will lay one egg in each gallery and seal off the entrance with wood pulp. The eggs take approximately 36 days to develop to an adult where they will then excavate themselves from the cell and into the gallery. Furthermore, the developing larvae, especially in homes, can oftentimes be attractive to woodpeckers that will seek out developing carpenter bees and create more extensive damage to the existing holes.
Eradicating Carpenter Bees
In order to keep carpenter bees out of the home, it is essential always to inspect the perimeter. Seal any cracks and crevices you jay see along the foundation and walls with caulk; repair holes in screens on windows or doors, and keep the doors closed unless in use. Professional treatment is vital if you have an active infestation. Dusting in entrance holes and an exterior pesticide treatment on affected wood is the most effective method for control. Carpenter bees typically require multiple treatments throughout a season. To prevent re-infestation, caulk and seal off holes, refinishing, or replacement of wood is necessary.
If you believe to be experiencing problems associated with carpenter bees, it is crucial to call licensed wildlife professionals. We have been keeping structures free from carpenter ants for over 25 years and are eager to help today!
You’ve all heard the saying, “sleep tight, don’t let the bed bugs bite”! There are multiple origin theories around the rhyme, specifically the “sleep tight” portion and its relation to bed bugs. One theory in particular suggests that it is referring to the way beds were made during the 16th and 17th centuries. Before the introduction of spring mattresses, mattresses where stuffed with coarse materials such as straw or feathers and sat on a latticework of ropes. Since it was necessary to tighten the ropes regularly to prevent the bed from sagging, many have suggested this is where the phrase “sleep tight” originates. Tightening the ropes would both allow for a good night’s sleep and keep the mattress off the ground to potentially avoid bedbugs. However, humans have been combating bed bugs even earlier than the 16th century!
Fossils and ancient texts have shown us that bedbugs have existed as far back as ancient Egypt and Rome. The colonization and industrialization of North America lead to their worldwide dominance, until extremely harmful pesticides like DDT wiped out most of them in the mid-20th century.
Nowadays, however, these parasitic bugs are increasingly becoming a problem within residences of all kinds, not just including homes. Apartments, hotels/motels, cruise ships, dormitories and shelters can all suffer from an infestation. The bugs transfer from an infested house to other houses on furniture, baggage, boxes, in suitcases, packed clothing, and bedding— especially when people travel frequently or change residences.
Physical Traits
They are small, reddish-brown, wingless insects that feed solely on the blood of warm-blooded animals. Bedbugs and their relatives have evolved as nest parasites. Hatchlings are the size of poppy seed, and adults are about ¼ of an inch in length. From above, they are oval in shape, but are flat from top to bottom. A pest control treatment is the only way to get rid of this infestation, and it usually takes 2-4 treatments.
Detecting an Infestation
Contrary to popular belief, bedbugs are not associated with filth or social class. Bedbugs will infest anywhere that blood meals are plentiful. There are a few different ways to detect whether your home has an active infestation. In heavily infested home or apartments, there will be an overpowering sweet smell, similar to the smell of ripe raspberries. Early on, bed bugs are found most commonly in the bed and bedroom area—hence their name. They hide in the folds and creases of the mattress. However, they can leave blood stains or smears on bedding, walls, and curtains. Later on in an infestation, they will seek to hide behind loose wallpaper, behind pictures, window/door casings, baseboards, and cracks in plaster.
The lifecycle of these bugs includes five stages, called instars, as they develop from nymph to adult. In order to transition to the next instar, the bug must have a blood meal. Because of this, bedbugs do bite which typically happens at night. They leave a flea-sized mark; which can become a large, red, inflamed oval or oblong accompanied by severe itching caused by an allergic reaction to their saliva. Depending on which instar they are in, bedbugs can survive anywhere from three months to one year without a meal. Once a host is found, the bugs will feed for only a few minutes. They become engorged, and then return to their hiding place for several days in order to completely digest the meal.
How To Prevent Bed Bugs
You can prevent the spread of bed bug infestations by taking some precautionary steps when traveling, moving, or staying away from home.
Be sure when traveling to inspect mattresses of the room(s) you are staying in.
In hotels, be sure to keep clothes off the floor.
When returning from a trip, be sure to dry, not wash, all clothing on the hottest setting upon unpacking.
In order to provide you with the most effective service possible, we ask you review all the necessary steps listed prior to our arrival. Bedbugs take multiple treatments to properly eradicate, and all efforts will be lost if the proper protocol is not followed. If you believe to be experiencing problems associated with bedbugs, do not hesitate to give us a call. We have experience eradicating infestations in private homes, community centers, dormitories, and apartment buildings for over 25 years, and no job is too big or too small! Give us a call today.
Sources
Cohen, Jennie. “They’re Back: A Bed Bug History.” History.com, A&E Television Networks, 31 Aug. 2010, www.history.com/news/theyre-back-a-bed-bug-history.
Potter, Michael F. “The History of Bed Bug Management—With Lessons From The Past.” American Entomologist, Vol. 57, no. 1, Spring 2011, pp. 14–25.
First brought to North America in the 19th century by Shakespeare enthusiasts, European starlings are now among the continent’s most plentiful birds. Their stocky, black bodies have short tails, triangular wings, and long, pointed bills. They are extremely resilient birds; they are strong fliers, eat a wide variety of foods, and are willing to use an array of places to nest and roost. This flexibility helps them thrive in both urban and rural areas such as cities and suburbs, as well as on farms. They are one of few bird species who are able to live in otherwise barren industrial wastelands. More than 200 million European starlings live between Alaska to Mexico today, and many consider them pests.
Starling Nests
Homeowners resent these birds for their abundance and aggressiveness; as they can be harmful toward other native bird species as well as causing quite a ruckus for humans. An invasive species, starlings are cavity nesters and can overtake structures in a very short period of time. Even just a pair of starlings can be a force to be reckoned with. They build gigantic nests that require professional clean-up. They enjoy nesting inside attics, dryer vents, soffits, fan vents in bathrooms, and other areas that are accessible to them. Starlings will enter attics via abandoned holes made by woodpeckers and other pests.
When starlings nest in larger spaces such as attics, they do not seek out a particular spot to build the nest; they overtake the entire space. These nests can lead to health problems for humans due to their excrement. Even when starlings decide to nest in confined spaces such as a dryer vents, they will still make a mess. Oftentimes homeowners will hear a starling in their dryer vent, chimney, or attic and assume it is another pest, such as a squirrel.
Associated Problems
Starlings are quite the impressionists; they are able to learn the calls of at least 20 different species, often including (but not limited to) the Eastern Wood-Pewee, Killdeer, meadowlarks, Northern Bobwhite, Wood Thrush, Red-tailed Hawk, American Robin, and Northern Flicker. They are known for being aggressive toward and overtaking the nests of other bird species. Male starlings are especially aggressive in their search for nest sites— They will peck holes in the eggs of other birds, throw out their nesting material, and kill their young. Starlings will also build their nests on top of occupied nests containing eggs, and can even evict birds as large as ducks!
In addition, female starlings will attempt to lay eggs in the nests of other females. This is a common tactic used by those without mates— as the longer it takes to get nest started is directly related to the probability of the its success. Most starlings breed and start laying early. They have been known to dive-bomb anything that goes near the nests, including humans and other animals, to protect their young.
Controlling Starlings
Starlings are one of three species of birds not under the protection of the Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918. This means they have an open season year-round; where other birds have a specific hunting season, or no season at all. If you find a nest, keep in mind federal law allows you to remove starling and house sparrow eggs; however, it is illegal to remove the nests or eggs of all other birds, so proper identification is key. It is best to refer to a licensed wildlife professional when dealing with and handling birds and their nesting material.
The key to starling eradication is complete removal and clean-up of the nest, but also exclusion of the entrances as well. During the eradication process it is extremely important to not only remove the birds, but their their nesting materials as well. The nests can create fire hazards and/or block off ventilation to the home, restricting how the home retains heat in the winter. Their fecal matter is hazardous to human health, so it is imperative to leave their nesting material untouched.
Starling droppings, like those of many other bird species, can contain the histoplasmosis fungus. Histoplasmosis is an infection caused by breathing in spores of a fungus often found in bird and bat droppings. The infection transmits to humans when the spores become airborne, typically during cleanup or demolition. Histoplasmosis can lead to flu-like symptoms and in some cases death. Those who have underlying lung diseases, such as COPD, may develop a chronic histoplasmosis as a result. This is why it is important for professionals to properly and safely handle the nests and birds themselves.
If you believe you have a starling infestation, call a licensed wildlife professional. There will need to be not only removal, but exclusion work and clean-up involved in the entire eradication process. Hogarth’s specializes in full-service starling eradication, so please give us a call today!
Sources
“European Starling.” All About Birds: European Starling, Cornell Lab of Ornithology, 2018, www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/European_Starling
“Histoplasmosis.” Mayo Clinic, Mayo Foundation for Medical Education and Research, 27 Jan. 2018, www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/histoplasmosis/symptoms-causes/syc-20373495.
“What To Do About Starlings.” Wild Neighbors, The Humane Society of the United States, 2017, www.humanesociety.org/resources/what-do-about-starlings.
Have you ever noticed tiny ants congregating on a droplet of melted ice cream that has fallen to the ground? Those tiny ants are known as ‘sweet ants’ or ‘sugar ants’ because their affinity for all things saccharine. The technical name for these ants is the ‘odorous house’ ant, and they are most commonly found in the kitchen snacking on sugary substances. These ants won’t cause any damage to the home, unlike carpenter ants and acrobats ants, but they are a nuisance insect that licensed pest control professionals can eradicate.
How To Identify
The odorous house ant does not get its name from a foul smell, per se. For instance, if you have discovered a trail of ants in your home, you will not notice any odor emitted. To an untrained eye, the species of ant does not have any physical traits that set them apart from others right away. They do look similar to pavement ants, but their bodies only have one node as opposed to two. Due to their size, this can be difficult to distinguish at first glance.
To properly identify an odorous house ant (this is actually something we pest control professionals always do), you can crush one between your thumb and index finger. If the crushed ant smells like coconut, then you know for certain that it is an odorous house ant! You read that right, the odorous house ants smell shockingly similar to rotting coconuts. This scent is actually a chemical compound that is very similar to those emitted by rotting food— more specifically, the penicillin mold that causes food to rot.
Diet
Odorous house ants particularly enjoy carbohydrate-rich materials, such as plant nectar, honeydew from aphids, and sweet human foods. As a result, these ants tend to invite themselves to picnics and into kitchens. However, their saccharine-loving ways can also lead them to their demise; in most cases, odorous house ants respond well to sugar-based baits if they do find their way in to your kitchen.
Odorous house ant will essentially nest anywhere. They create large colonies that usually split into sub-colonies, often making them difficult to control and eliminate. If you notice odorous house ants in your home, it is important that you do not attempt to self-treat. Many store-bought products will simply deter the ants, which forces them to take an alternative route. This only displaces the ants rather than eliminating them.
Many forms of self-treating often affect large quantities of ants at once; however, they do not affect the rest of the ants living in the colony. If your DIY fast-acting spray kills the first, unsuspecting victims that it touches, the other ants will take notice to the spike in mortality rate and re-route to a new food source. This food source will always be near water; in kitchens, bathrooms, and laundry rooms.
Takeaway Tips:
To identify an odorous house ant, squash the ant between your fingers; it should smell like coconut.
We advise that customers DO NOT attempt to spray or treat odorous house ants with store-bought products. Spraying will cause budding and make the problem much worse and harder to deal with.
The key to eliminating an odorous house ant colony is a professional pest control treatment. If you have been noticing ants inside of your home, don’t hesitate to reach out. We have been eliminating issues with these ants for 25 years, so give us a call today!
Sources
Liesch, P. “Identifying Insects by Smell, Part 2: Odorous House Ants.” Insect Diagnostic Lab, UW Madison Department of Entomology, 24 Apr. 2019, labs.russell.wisc.edu/insectlab/2019/04/24/identifying-insects-by-smell-part-2-odorous-house-ants/.
The yellowjacket, or yellow jacket, refers to several species of North American predatory wasps. These wasps are aptly named based on their appearance black with yellow legs, and a yellow “jacket” on their thorax. Commonly mistaken as bees, yellowjackets are extremely aggressive and should be left alone and dealt with by a professional at all times.
Threats of Yellowjackets
Yellowjackets pose as a threat for an array of individuals. They cause trouble for lawn maintenance professionals because they can disturb a nest by weed whipping or mowing. Roofers also have a tough time with them when they have decided to nest in the attic, and homeowners may notice them nesting under siding or windows. Yellowjackets also pose a threat for both pets and unsuspecting humans, whether indoors or out; sometimes, they make their way inside the home and become aggressive trying to find their way out. All these situations can be extremely dangerous and even deadly.
These wasps cause fatalities every summer in Northern Michigan; even if you are not specifically allergic to these wasps, the venom from their sting can still be fatal—, especially if swarmed by multiple. Their stingers, unlike other stinging insects, are not barbed; thus allowing them the ability to sting repeatedly. Symptoms of an allergic reaction include swelling of the face, mouth, and/or throat with the eventual inability to breathe (anaphylaxis). Other equally serious symptoms may also manifest, such as vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, and loss of motor function.
The most common way to encounter these wasps is by stumbling upon a nest. These nests are easy to identify by their papery appearance, a substance made from chewed cellulose. The nests are near or on trees, bushes, and the eaves of houses. Some species of yellow jackets build their nests in the ground, making them easy targets for unsuspecting walkers. This event not only affects humans but animals as well.
Dogs and Yellowjackets
Dogs, curious by nature, tend to encounter these wasps most. Unsuspecting dogs are often stung on the face or in the mouth. This usually results in a yelp, followed by pawing at the muzzle or other affected areas. Other signs can range from mild to severe, depending on the location of the sting, the amount of stings, and whether the dog has an allergy to the venom. Typically, the dog will experience slight swelling and/or redness of the affected area. These side effects will subside within hours to a day.
In more serious instances, a potentially deadly reaction can occur from 10-30 minutes. These symptoms include the swelling of the eyes and face, which can lead to difficulty breathing. Other symptoms may also manifest, such as drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, weakness and collapsing.
Tips for keeping Yellowjackets away:
Keep trash cans covered
Make sure all doors and windows have screens
Avoid wearing sweet-smelling perfume
Caulk and seal small holes around the home
Work with licensed pest control professionals to eradicate an existing issue
Make sure all of the outdoor areas near your home are free of garbage, including empty cans. Like many other flying insects, adult yellow jackets will feed on picnic fare, fruits, the nectar of flowers, and the occasional soda or beer when they find an open can. However, something that makes yellow jackets unique is their carnivorous diet. In the larval stage, yellow jackets will feast on meat from other insects, such as flies and bees, foraged by worker wasps. These wasps will search for food up to 1 mile from their nest!
While most homeowners consider yellow jackets a pest, their unique diet actually makes them an important part of garden pest control. Gardens are chock full of all the insects for yellow jacket larvae to feed on. However, this makes them a seasonal pest as food supplies dwindle throughout the year. Yellowjacket queens are the only survivors during the winter months, as they will live to create a new colony in the spring.
“I found a nest”
Common places for a nest are attached to bushes, trees, or the eaves of homes. Yellowjacket nests are built with a recognizable paper-like material made from chewed cellulose. If you believe to have come across a yellow jacket nest, stop! Contact a licensed pest control professional to properly move the nest as soon as possible. It is important to steer clear from these wasps at all costs because they are quick to attack, one may develop a hypersensitivity to their venom after being stung. This makes the threat of a future encounter even greater.
Yellowjackets and other beings are able to live harmoniously so long as the wasps get the respect they deserve. They do not seek out humans or animals to sting, and only do it as a means to protect themselves. Yellowjackets can be controlled and we work with them every day. If you are experiencing issues with yellow jackets near your home, do not hesitate to give us a call today!
Sources
“Animal Facts: Yellow Jacket.” NatureMapping Foundation, Washington NatureMapping Program, 01 June 2019, naturemappingfoundation.org/natmap/facts/yellow_jacket_712.html.
“Dog Stung by a Bee? Here’s What You Should Know.” Taste of the Wild, Taste of the Wild Pet Food, 23 May 2017, www.tasteofthewildpetfood.com/health/dog-bee-sting/.
“Everything You Need to Know About Yellowjackets.” www.PestWorld.org , PestWorld, 02 June 2019, www.pestworld.org/news-hub/pest-articles/everything-you-need-to-know-about-yellowjackets/.
One of the most easily recognizable pests we deal with is the Asian beetle. Its orange body, adorned with black spots, is commonly mistook for the ladybug. Despite its name, the ladybug is in fact not a bug at all; it is actually a member of the same family as the Asian beetle. They look quite alike at first glance, but a closer look reveals some of their many differences. While similar in color, the lady bug is a richer, deeper red than the orange shell of the Asian beetle, with fewer black spots (most ladybugs have 7-9 spots). The ladybug is featured in children’s nursery rhymes; it is also seen as a symbol of good luck by many (especially those with 7 spots!). Some consider ladybugs to be a symbol of the Virgin Mary in Christian culture.
Ladybugs, for the most part, are beneficial to the environment. They feed on crop-destroying aphids and scale insects. While Asian beetles are also a predator to pest insects, they have taken over native species since their first introduction into the United States. They have hefty appetites and tend to feed on non-pest insects as well, including Monarch butterfly eggs and larvae. These beetles are more aggressive and will even bite! Asian beetles have become such a problem in vineyards have actually begun to affect the taste of wine— as they are collected with the grapes and included in the winemaking process.
Asian Beetles In The Home
Like boxelder bugs and stink bugs, Asian beetles seek warmth during the colder months. They crawl into the home through cracks in poorly excluded siding, ridge vents, crawl space vents, or even the foundation to overwinter between the walls. If the home is seasonal, they will hibernate in the walls and can be quite the shock to unsuspecting visitors upon turning on the heat. When the temperature rises, the Asian beetles awaken from their hibernation and seek to be closer to the heat source. They will exploit any available openings to make it into the living space of the home.
From there, they crawl and fly around, congregating at windows; it’s not unusual to see thousands of Asian beetles congregated in an area. If something disturbs them, they secrete a yellow, odorous substance that can stain walls and furniture. Their mouths are small but they have a reputation of being biters— though the bite is not very painful, some may have an allergic reaction which ranges from general eye problems such as pink eye to hay fever, asthma, and/or hives. Reactions can be triggered by handling the beetles and touching your eyes, so it is important to always wash your hands after touching!
Asian Beetles vs Dogs
In addition to being potentially harmful to humans, Asian beetles are a threat to dogs as well. If a dog ingests the beetles, their tough exoskeleton, made of a tough substance called “chitin” does not break down easily. It is similar to the hull of a popcorn kernel in consistency. Asian beetles are able to secure themselves to the roof of a dogs mouth, congregating at the palate. Due to their hard, thickened wing covers their rounded shape proves difficult for a dog’s tongue to remove. The yellow, odorous substance mentioned earlier is called hemolymph, and is secreted when they feel threatened. It tastes just as bad as it smells, which is why dogs will attempt to eat more Asian beetles to rid their mouths of the foul taste.
Hemolymph is corrosive and can cause chemical burns in both the mouth and gastrointestinal tract. If the chemical burns are not treated properly, an infection may develop and with time could become serious. While the threat to dogs is there, it is relatively unlikely. Most of the time upon even smelling the hemolymph, canines will steer clear.
Preventing Asian Beetles
Exclusion will help to prevent Asian beetles from entering the home in the fall and will prevent an infestation. Sealing where the foundation meets the siding, around windows, piping, eaves, along with repairing a popped ridge vent and caulking any visible cracks will help keep these fall invaders out. Ensuring all window and door screens fit tightly and are free of holes will also help to keep the beetles outdoors. If you find dead Asian beetles near your windows and doors, the carcasses can be easily vacuumed up. It is important to note that handling Asian beetles gently will prevent squashing them and releasing the hemolymph, which does have a potential to stain.
Proper exclusion and chemical treatments in the spring are ultimately the most effective means of prevention. We specialize in this type of clean-up, eradication, and exclusion. If you are experiencing an issue with Asian beetles, do not hesitate to give us a call today!
Sources:
Fitzsimmons, Paula. “Asian Lady Beetles: Could They Harm Your Dog?” PetMD, 25 Oct. 2017, www.petmd.com/dog/emergency/poisoning-toxicity/asian-lady-beetles-could-they-harm-your-dog.
Lupo, Lisa Jo. “How to Tell the Difference Between Good and Bad Ladybugs.” The Spruce, The Spruce, 27 Mar. 2019, www.thespruce.com/good-and-bad-ladybugs-2656236.
Zika. West Nile. Malaria. Encephalitis. These are but a few of the dangerous diseases commonly associated with mosquitoes. While the threat for these diseases is nowhere near as high in the United States as it is in other countries, it is still something to be mindful of; as the mosquito’s real danger goes well beyond the prick of a sting or the resulting, itchy welt. According to the CDC, mosquitoes kill more people per year around the world than any other living creature! With these astronomical numbers, it is no wonder that we are always on high alert for these insects, especially when traveling.
It is important to know that mosquitoes are simply a vector for transmitting disease; the original host is usually a bird, and in some cases horses or deer. In Michigan, the bird suspects include Blue Jays, robins, and crows, which is why their populations are monitored by health officials. The insects feed on the blood of the infected animal, and then move on from host to host. Interestingly enough, it is only the female mosquitoes that bite as they require blood to develop eggs. Males, on the other hand, are rather innocuous, feeding on plant nectars and juices instead.
Mosquito Lifecycle
Michigan has roughly 60 different species of mosquito, including Aedes Egypti, Anopheles, and Culex; All 60 species fall into 3 main categories: permanent water, floodwater, and artificial container/tree hole mosquitoes. Aptly named, all three require some type of standing water source to breed and grow, such as ponds, flooded areas, old tires and water-filled buckets.
All mosquitoes start out as an egg which hatch when they are exposed to water. The larvae, called “wigglers” because of their movement patterns, will molt several times before turning into a pupa. In the pupa, or “tumbler”, stage the mosquito will not feed. This is the final stage before they emerge from the water as adults. Adult female mosquitoes can lay up to 100 eggs about every third night after mating only once! After laying three sets the mosquito will die; her eggs will hatch, thus starting the lifecycle over again. While this cycle typically takes up to two weeks, it can range from 4 days to as long as a month.
Zika and Mosquitoes
Since mosquitoes are cold-blooded, spring is the season in which they become active— hibernating once the temperatures drop below 50 degrees. In the extreme South and Hawaii, mosquito season has been known to last throughout the year! This is why we must be mindful when traveling abroad. Many of the diseases spread most commonly by mosquitoes are contracted in countries outside of the US; most prevalently the Zika virus. It is, however, important to know that while there is no current local transmission of the Zika virus in the United States, infection during pregnancy can cause certain birth defects; it transfers from a pregnant woman to her fetus. A great resource to remain up-to-date on Zika can be found here.
Other Threats
Despite the threat of Zika being minimal, there are other, more easily contracted ailments. Malaria and West Nile are the most well-known, and although both transmit through the insect’s bite there are several differences; primarily, malaria is a parasite, whereas the West Nile is a virus. Only Anopheles—and only females—can transmit malaria. Malaria is caused by plasmodium, a one-celled parasite. The female Anopheles mosquito picks up the disease by drinking the blood of the infected. Unfortunately, malaria kills 80% of its hosts.
On the other hand, only around 20% of those infected with the West Nile virus exhibit mild flu-like symptoms; it is easy to beat. If you do exhibit symptoms, however, there are no medications to treat the illness, though ver-the-counter pain medications can assist in relieving the flu-like symptoms. It is important to know that less than 1% of those infected with West Nile present with serious symptoms developing into neurologic illnesses such as encephalitis or meningitis.
Another, far less threatening issue caused by mosquitoes is nuisance of their bites. The red, itchy bumps are simply a summertime annoyance. The bumps are caused by histamine produced by the body to fight off the foreign substance (mosquito saliva) that enters the area through the broken skin. Some people react worse than others who become more tolerant to a mosquito’s saliva over time. For many, the reaction remains consistent, and mosquito bites continue to be an annoyance.
Treating Mosquitoes
There is no way to eliminate all of the mosquitoes on one’s property, but they can be controlled. One of these tools is to larvicide any standing water that cannot be emptied out around a home. These areas may include ponds and catch basins. Another tool is to chemically treat the barrier of the property or area. If you’re not a prime candidate for a barrier treatment, consider purchasing a fan for the deck, patio or lawn! Mosquitoes are not strong fliers, so a fan swathing back and forth will keep them out of the area you’re trying to enjoy. This will make your BBQ or family gathering much more enjoyable while also being eco-friendly. Maintaining awareness of the dangers that surround mosquitoes is by far the best method of protecting yourself from a potentially dangerous illness.
Sources:
Travelers’ Health https://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/page/zika-travel-information
Mosquitoes in Michigan: Here’s What To Know To Help Keep Them Away Frank McGeorge – https://www.clickondetroit.com/health/mosquitoes-in-michigan-heres-what-you-need-to-know-the-facts
Tips and Dangers Associated with Mosquitoes in Michigan Laura Sternberg – https://www.tripsavvy.com/mosquitoes-in-michigan-1085463
West Nile Virus | West Nile Virus | CDC https://www.cdc.gov/westnile/index.html
Malaria | About Malaria – Biology | CDC https://www.cdc.gov/malaria/about/biology/index.html
We want to save the bees, but keep them away from ourselves and our loved ones, right? Approximately 86 people die from run-in’s with these insects every year, typically from anaphylaxis which is commonly associated with an allergy. All bee species in Michigan are considered important pollinators, as they fly from flower to flower spreading pollen, so it is illegal to kill some species. Removal and control are the best methods to combat a bee infestation.
Bees make their hives in anything hollow; including tree stumps and unfortunately the walls of our homes or other structures. They are disturbed whenever the structure in which their hive is built is disturbed; the vibrations from any outside movement cause the bees to become very unhappy, and in many cases this is when stings occur. That being said, There are 3 main types of bees in Michigan, and it is important to know which ones you are dealing with in the event you notice them buzzing around your homes and/or structures this summer.
Bumble bees
Bumble bees are large insects that are black and yellow in color with a seemingly fuzzy appearance. There are 15-18 different species of bumble bees in Michigan and the surrounding states. They are ground-nesting; their hives are usually smaller hives than honey bees. Bumble bees are important pollinators and are often found circling the purple cone flower. In recent years, due to a lack of these flowers in gardens, the bumble pee population has significantly decreased. Bumble bees like to keep to themselves, as they are not considered aggressive and only sting if they feel their nest has been threatened. Queen and worker bees have the ability to sting repeatedly, as their stingers are not barbed, so stinging does not kill the bee.
Carpenter bees
Carpenter bees are large insects whose life only spans up to one year. Females rarely sting and males completely lack the ability to, so they are not considered dangerous. True to their name, these bees bore into raw wood, such as deck timbers, especially if it’s weathered or has starter holes. As a result, this can cause severe damage to log and wood-sided structures. Contrary to popular belief, these bees do not eat the wood, they simply hollow out and live in it. Nectar from flowering plants is their main food source; so, like other native bees, carpenter bees are important plant pollinators, thriving in gardens and in some crops.
Honey bees
Honeybees are one of the more popular bees, despite representing only a small percent of bee species. They measure at about 15mm in length and range anywhere from golden yellow to black in color. They make their hives in anything hollow, such as tree stumps damaged by carpenter ants or inside of the walls of home or frequented structures can become damaged over time as the hive grows and is filled with honey. Honey is a sweet and viscous food substance derived from plants that serves various purposes to humans. Honey not only contains some nutrients and antioxidants, but is considered to be a “less bad” alternative to white sugar and is low in cholesterol! The bees make honey as a food source for the winter months, so even experienced bee keepers must be careful as to how much honey they harvest from hives to sell.
During their mating season in the spring months, honey bees swarm which can cause quite a disturbance to customers. A honey bee stinger is barbed, so it is unable to remove the stinger upon stinging a person. They rupture their abdomen in an attempt to get away, which not only leaves behind the stinger but also part of its abdomen and digestive tract, plus muscles and nerves. This kills the bee, making the honey bee the only bee to die after stinging.
It is important to know that these bees are extremely beneficial and protected federally; so, it is illegal to kill them. Eradication must include the help of a licensed beekeeper, of which we have a couple to recommend.
Benefits of honey bees include:
Pollination
Honeybees are among the most popular of all the pollinators. They are an integral part of our ecosystem!
Honey
Honey has been used by humans for millions of years. It is not only a healthier alternative to white sugar but tastes wonderful on its own!
Beeswax
Used for candles and beauty products
Royal jelly, propolis and bee pollen
All of which have medicinal benefits
It is important to know that certain predatory wasps are commonly misidentified as bees. The yellow jacket, despite its black and yellow thorax, is in fact a wasp. Due to their intense aggression and ability to chase and sting victims, bees have gotten a bad reputation amongst people. We will discuss yellow jackets at length on a later date, but it is important to know that there is a difference upon discovering a hive. Bees, for the most part, just enjoy flying around mind their own while stimulating the ecosystem as they go.
Proper handling is important when dealing with any sort of bee or their hive, so it is important to call a licensed pest control professional. We have been keeping properties free of bees in Northern Michigan for 25 years, so don’t hesitate to reach out to us today!
I was driving yesterday, windows down, my hair blowing in the breeze. Beside me in the passenger seat, our German Shorthaired Pointer, Milo, sprawled out lazily, enjoying the rare occurrence of riding shotgun. He laid his head back, both ears flopping over to expose the smooth inside. That’s when I saw it. Strange and definitely foreign looking, I ran my thumb over what looked to be a large skin tag on the inside of his left year. My initial thought was that it had to be a tick, as I had read multiple pieces detailing this year’s influx in tick populations. That being said, Milo has been on tick medication for the majority of his life and I didn’t think much of the ‘epidemic’. However, seeing one latching onto him was entirely different.
When my husband came home (he’s the bug guy, not me) he immediately checked the ear. Sure enough, there it was. A female deer tick! She wasn’t fully burrowed into Milo’s skin just yet, which made extracting her fairly simple. This was both of our first run-ins with discovering a tick on a dog, and we are now fully aware of how rampant they are this year.
All about Ticks
Ticks are tiny insects, typically the size of a sesame seed. They feed on blood from humans and other animals. Ticks partially burrow into the skin, and prefer to feed in heavily vascular areas like the head. The danger associated with ticks is simple: Lyme disease. The CDC reports more than 300,000 cases of Lyme disease each year, and health officials believe that 75% of these cases are caused by ticks. White-footed mice and chipmunks are the most well-known hosts of Lyme disease due to the bacteria they house. When a tick, and most commonly a deer tick, feeds on these rodents, they become a vector for the disease and transfer it to humans and other animals as a result.
Lyme disease manifests itself as a multi-system inflammatory disease that affects the skin in its early, localized stage. It starts out as a red rash in a bullseye pattern around the bite mark. From there, it spreads to the joints, nervous system, and other organ systems in its later, more advanced stages. If diagnosed in its early stages and immediately treated with antibiotics, Lyme disease is almost always cured. The disease in its later stages can also be treated effectively, but because the rate of progression and individual response to treatment varies from patient to patient. In humans, an attached tick must take a blood meal and then transmit the bacterium, borrelia burgdorferi, to infect a host with Lyme disease. In most cases, a tick requires at least 36 to 48 hours to have enough time to feed and spread the bacterium.
Tips for keeping Ticks away:
Keep firewood and debris away from home
Hang bird feeders away from the home
Mow yards and pathways regularly
Wear long pants and long sleeves while walking through tall grass or in the woods
Apply DEET insect repellent to clothing before walking through tall grass or in the woods
Always check yourself or have someone else inspect you for ticks after walking outside
Make sure pets are on flea and tick medication from their vet
Contrary to popular belief, ticks do not jump on to their hosts. They hang out in heavily wooded areas and on shrubs, bushes, and tall grasses, waiting for the hosts to brush up against the vegetation. If you find a tick on your skin, it needs to be removed immediately. Make sure to thoroughly inspect all clothing after being outdoors— always check children and pets. If a tick burrows deeply into your skin, seek care of a professional. Mouth parts left behind can cause infection!
How to remove a tick yourself
Using tweezers, gently grab the tick as close as possible to its mouth. The body of the tick should be above the skin. Avoid touching the tick with bare hands! Using nitrile gloves is beneficial.
Lift the tick from the skin with even force. ensuring you are squeezing the mouth.Squeezing can cause the stomach contents to leak from the mouth, which can cause infection. Do not pull, turn, or twist the tick as this increases the chances of separating the mouth from the body. Make sure to remove all mouth pieces and remnants left behind.
Upon removal, clean the area with soap and water.
Hogarth’s now offers a new method of tick control; a multi-year process that results in 88% total population reduction of ticks in the first year, and up to 97.3% of ticks by the end of the second year. If you have discovered a tick on yourself, your child, or your pet, do not hesitate to give us a call. This kind of pest prevention requires continual effort. We will be happy to help remediate this potentially dangerous problem. Keep your pets and loved ones safe this summer season!
In the pest control industry, we are no stranger to dealing with very real fears. Many of the critters we deal with have some kind of a phobia attached to them— whether it be general fear, anxiety induced by the diseases they carry, etc. We know that we are often dealing with sensitive nuisances. This is why it brings us so much pride to come to the aid of our customers. We truly have seen it all, and are pretty much desensitized to most. However, there are some creepy crawlies that will cause even the most seasoned PCO to jump— namely, spiders.
Spiders are among the top concerns for homeowners. It is important to know that not all spiders are “bad”. Many are extremely helpful to the ecosystem. Moreover, the presence of spiders ensures that the insect population is being controlled naturally. Despite the positives, many have an instinctive fear of spiders and will not tolerate their presence in the home. This is where we come in. There are a few main issues that we hear about concerning spiders: the fear of bites, the visual unpleasantry of their presence and webs, and the potential for structure staining and damage from their droppings.
Spiders are generally an unpleasant sight in outdoor seating areas, as well as on the exterior of structures. Spiders and their webs cause an unsightly problem for both owners and guests. Their droppings leave stains and with time they can do damage by causing build up, especially with vinyl siding. Have you ever returned your cottage or cabin only to walk through webbing to reach the door? Are you sweeping webbing off your screens? Do you have to wash the spider mess off your windows more than once a year? These problems are very common in wooded and heavily-scrubbed areas as well as waterfront properties. In our great state it seems that many seasonal homes are located in these areas.
While there are many different types of spiders in Michigan, most of them are simply web builders and house invaders. There are only two spiders in Michigan that we consider dangerous: the Brown Recluse the Northern Black Widow. Fortunately, these are not very prevalent and we rarely find them in or around homes.
The Brown Recluse
The Brown Recluse rarely bites unless pressed against the skin. It is common to its name in the fact that it hides in dark areas, gloves, undisturbed clothing and bed sheets, and it is non-confrontational. We identify the Brown Recluse by the violin shaped marking and can range in color from cream to brown to dark brownish gray. If bitten by this spider it is imperative you seek medical attention immediately as it can turn into severe skin lesions.
The Northern Black Widow
The Northern Black Widow is shiny black in color and can be identified by a red hourglass marking on the underside of the abdomen, which is incomplete or split in the middle. It can also have white stripes on the abdomen. This spider is timid and chooses to flee when disturbed, therefore rarely bites. If bitten pain is felt almost immediately and increases for 1 to 3 hours. There has only been a 1% mortality rate from a Black Widow bite.
We have many species of spider that help to control mosquito, wasp, hornet, and even other spider populations. However, their legginess and seemingly erratic movement patterns make them all equally unwelcome house guests for most. Your every day home invaders include the common house spider, wolf spider, daddy long-legs, orb weaver and the jumping spider. Most are quick to dodge anything you throw at them and their disappearance can cause uneasiness for even the toughest person.
If you are noticing spiders in your home, especially in the spring months, it is important to call a licensed pest control professional. Spiders will lay between 2 and 1000 eggs, depending on the species, so a small problem can become much larger in a short amount of time! Identification is key with these pests, and we always ask our customers to try and save a specimen for the professional to identify and treat accordingly.
Hogarth’s Pest Control specializes in the removal and prevention of spiders in and around homes. If you are experiencing an unpleasant spider issue, do not hesitate to give us a call today!
If you’ve ever caught sight of a mole, you know they’re really quite strange looking. Sure, they are small and furry— but that is more or less the extent of their cuteness. Moles have inconspicuous ears and eyes, meaning these features are not prominent; because of their subterranean lifestyle, they are practically blind, as they do not require their eyes to tunnel so they remain closed at all times. New research suggests that certain species of mole are evolving without eyes all togetherⁱ, according to a team of researchers led by J Martin Collinson from the University of Aberdeen. Their front legs were designed for digging, equipped with large webbed paws with 5 finger-like appendages; whereas their back legs are reduced and nowhere near as powerful, though webbed as well.
Moles cause major problems for anyone who appreciates the cosmetics of well-manicured lawn. They burrow underground tunnels just below the surface, feeding on various insects, earthworms, roots, seeds, fruits, and vegetables. Under good conditions a Mole will produce tunnels at a rate of 15 feet per hour. When tunneling, moles dump excess soil upward which creates molehills that are made of loose dirt. This seriously destroys the cosmetic appeal of lawns and golf courses. There are various species of mole, all of which share some similarities.
Types of Moles
There are two types of moles we commonly deal with in Michigan: the eastern and the star-nosed mole. Both species have several traits in common; for example, both moles can dig from 30-100 yards a day. The distance is dependent on temperature and soil quality. The eastern mole, the most common, has a very large range that can sometimes span multiple acres. They dig horizontally and have ravenous appetites, sometimes consuming 100% of their bodyweight daily! Their diet mainly consists of grubs and earthworms, but they will also feed on ants, centipedes, snails, and slugs as well as grass seed, dog food and any human food left on the ground.
For those of you who have laid eyes on a star-nosed mole, you know they look eerily similar to the demogorgon from Stranger Things— the face only a mother could love. Unlike the eastern mole, the star-nosed mole tunnels vertically and creates the largest mounding problem for lawns. They burrow deeply until deciding to turn back around and burrow nearly to the surface, creating substantial mounds. These moles are semi-aquatic and many of their tunnels will exit in the shallow end of bodies of water. Star-nosed moles are usually treated by methods other than trapping, such as certain rodenticide treatments.
Eradication of Moles
Mole problems can and will persist if proper eradication and prevention does not take place. Moles do not hibernate and remain active all year long. As the soil freezes deeper, moles stop making surface tunnels and tunnel further into the ground. Once they reach below the frostline, they remain there for the duration of winter feasting on insects and earthworms. It is important to know that there is no way to stop moles from getting in to the property, so preventative measures are fruitless. There are, however, a few means to mole eradication and control depending on the species and extremity of the situation. One of the most common ways is via trapping. It is important to trap as many mating pairs as possibly to significantly cut back on the population.
Alternatives Methods
Due to the range of certain mole species, trapping is not always the best option. The most effective and cutting-edge way (also our preferred way) to solve a mole problem is by the use of a machine that produces carbon monoxide called the BurrowRX. These machines fill the soil with just the right amount of of CO so that all existing moles will be eradicated in 10-15 minutes. This method is by far the quickest, however it is important that all humans and animals remain indoors for the duration of the treatment as CO is harmful if inhaled. The BurrowRX assures users that secondary kills of non-target species are not likely when the machine is properly operated.
Moles are in my yard. What now?
It is important to continue taking preventative measures in order to keep moles from damaging your lawn. Unfortunately, there is no permanent solution or way to physically block them from entering. In order to keep the moles from taking over once more, we suggest a monthly maintenance program to ensure no further damage. At Hogarth’s Pest Control & Wildlife Removal, we specialize in the removal and control of moles and will work with you to create a program that works best for your situation. If you are suffering from mole damage, please do not hesitate to give us a call today!
Sources
BMC Biology. “Genetic Explanation For Moles’ Poor Eyesight.” ScienceDaily. www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2008/10/081020191534.htm (accessed April 13, 2019).
In recent years, rodent populations have seemingly increased. Mice in particular are common household pests that can become an out-of-control problem if not nipped in the bud. They multiply quickly and in great numbers; two can turn into twenty within weeks. While unaggressive, these rodents can cause quite a scare for homeowners and an infestation can lead to health problems along with potential fire hazards from their tendency to gnaw on electrical wires. Mice control requires three methods of defense: trapping and removing, baiting from the exterior, and exclusion…but more on those later! In Michigan we have 4 species: white-footed, house, deer, and field. It is important to properly identify which type of mouse we are dealing with before eradication, as each species comes with their own set of preferences and tendencies.
“How do mice get in my home?”, you may ask. Mice are notorious gnawers, and will chew their way into virtually any structure; including homes, cabins, restaurants, hotels, factories, nursing homes, hospitals, food processing plants, commercial kitchens, RV’s, air conditioning units, heat pumps, outbuildings, and airplanes. Mice chew through window and door seals, and are known to damage weather stripping.They can squeeze through holes as small as a dime! Really there is no structure a mouse won’t chew its way into if given the chance.
Remediating an Existing Issue
There are three methods of defense to remediate and/or prevent future infestations from occurring; trapping and removing, baiting from the exterior, and exclusion. If the inside of your home is deemed to be infested by a licensed pest control professional, the mice must be trapped and removed by using various traps. Snap traps and glue boards work well to catch mice on the interior as we will not and do not recommend that poisons are used inside. Using bait inside will cause the mice to die inside, creating a whole new problem.
Bait stations are set around the exterior of the structure so that the mice outdoors will be lured in. Our bait stations are designed to be the strongest on the market so that problems aren’t created with non-target animals, and pet safety is one of our biggest concerns. The stations are tamper-proof, weighted, and locked to ensure the bait is protected. We also scan our stations for digital data tracking. Exclusion is the process of sealing any cracks or holes around the exterior of a structure to prevent mice from squeezing through.
Hazards
While the mice themselves will not cause harm as they do not generally bite unless held. The real threat comes from the health problems they can cause. Mice are known to carry parasites, and their waste can cause diseases such as salmonellosis and hantavirus. Hantavirus is particularly threatening because it lives in feces and when disturbed becomes airborne. The virus can be contracted by so much as breathing in contaminated dust from nests and/or droppings, so it is important to call a licensed pest control professional for proper remediation and clean-up. If you believe to have come across a mouse nest in your home, do not touch it! During the professional clean-up, every effort will be made to avoid stirring up any dust as well as a respirator to ensure there is no inhalation.
Tips to Prevent an Infestation
Eliminate food sources
Proper storage of food sources in pantries, cupboards, and especially in garages can help to prevent mice from chewing their way in to access. Airtight containers and storing food off of the floor will also be helpful.
Safeguard your garbage
By storing your outdoor garbage in a contained space such as a tin lidded bin, rodents will be unable to access.
Carefully tend your vegetable garden
Any leftover fruits or vegetables are an attractant to mice foraging for food. Mice are omnivorous, which means they eat both plants, meat, fruits, seeds, and grains.
Block entry points
If you come across cracks or holes around the exterior of a structure, you may block them. Keep in mind any mice trapped inside may perish and cause a disturbing odor.
Reduce clutter
Reducing clutter creates less spaces to hide, nest, and travel. Mice are extremely resourceful and will use just about anything as nesting material. In homes, clutter is often found in attics, basements, and garages, the same sites of most mouse infestations.
Protect your pool
Pools are essentially giant water bowls for mice, who can easily fall in and drown. It is not uncommon to find deceased rodents in pools and jacuzzis. Always cover these when not in use!
By taking these steps, homeowners are able to make their property less appealing to mice and other rodents. The more you know, the more effectively we can work together. If you believe to have found evidence of mice in your home do not hesitate to give us a call. We have been keeping homes in Northern Michigan mouse-free for 25 years! We look forward to solving your problem.
Carpenter ants. You’ve seen them— the black, oversized bodies with pinchers on their faces. Aptly named after their nest building, carpenter ants burrow smooth tunnels in wood and are commonly referred to as the “Michigan termite”. Rather than eating the wood, they excavate to make their nests. This poses a threat for property owners if they gain access to a structure. Early detection is key! Unlike the termite, it takes years for their destruction to cause significant structural damage; however, it is still important to remain proactive in the prevention of an infestation.
But what do they do?
Carpenter ants attack wood that has been damaged by mold or water. While they begin with the weakened wood, they move deeper and can easily burrow in the dry, undamaged wood. In the wild, these ants make their homes in fallen trees, hollowed-out stumps, rotting fence posts, and under logs/lumber. However, water damaged wood around a structure or home is also alluring to carpenter ants. Homeowners will commonly find an infestation in areas that have experienced flooding such as kitchens and bathrooms. These ants gain access to structures through the damaged areas; as well as through cracks around doors, windows, plumbing, and electrical holes. If there are tree branches or electrical wires touching the structure, they can use those as a means to enter as well. Once inside, they begin to build their colonies.
The parent colony houses the queen, eggs, and young. Satellite colonies may branch off from the main but only once the parent colony is mature, which can take years. The workers and winged ants emerge from the pupae in the late summer months and begin mating flights. This process is called swarming and can be quite a disturbance for homeowners as it is a sign of an infestation. In some cases however, a homeowner may become aware of an infestation by hearing a rustling in the walls. Other signs of an infestation in the home include finding sawdust piles around the home, or seeing small holes in wood.
Carpenter ants are most active during dusk and dawn, though they can be seen out in broad daylight. They feed on plant and fruit juices as well as insects and other arthropods and will forage for food up to 700 feet from their nest in the wild. In the home, they enjoy kitchen grease, meats, sweets, and eggs.
Tips to prevent
Proper identification is key!
Trim branches and bushes from structure.
Be sure to fix and replace any water-damaged wood
Have an exterior preventative treatment applied to your structure. The best time to do is in the spring; however, if you have an infestation you should get treated by a professional immediately.
Keep food stored in airtight containers
If you believe to have found a carpenter ant in your home or structure, it is important to call a licensed pest control professional. While carpenter ant damage is slow-moving, these pests are best dealt with sooner than later. The first line of self defense a homeowner with an assumed infestation turns to is typically self-treating with store bought pyrethrin pesticides such as Ortho® Home Defense®. While this may seem to alleviate the issue, it will only kill the ants being seen and drive more ants inside the home! To eradicate a colony, the queen must be killed and store bought pesticides will simply not do the job. The best course of action is to work with a pest control professional to ensure proper and lasting eradication. Not only will a professional rid your home of ants, but they will also provide you with tips and additional services to prevent re-entry.
Hogarth’s Pest Control & Wildlife Removal specializes in these types of jobs and the exclusion work required to prevent it from happening again. We work with you on creating a program best-suited to your needs. Hogarth’s Pest Control & Wildlife Removal has been eradicating carpenter ant colonies in Northern Michigan for over 25 years, and we do not stop until the job is done!
report that nut-hoarding squirrel species can be quite particular about their nut caches, putting them away in neat little groupings. This strategy helps them remember where all of their hiding places are. The findings point to just how mentally taxing caching nuts is; however, the organizational abilities of squirrels only go so far.
If you’ve ever caught sight of a mole, you know they’re really quite strange looking. Sure, they are small and furry— but that is more or less the extent of their cuteness. Moles have inconspicuous ears and eyes, meaning these features are not prominent; because of their subterranean lifestyle, they are practically blind, as they do not require their eyes to tunnel so they remain closed at all times. New research suggests that certain species of mole are evolving without eyes all togetherⁱ, according to a team of researchers led by J Martin Collinson from the University of Aberdeen. Their front legs were designed for digging, equipped with large webbed paws with 5 finger-like appendages; whereas their back legs are reduced and nowhere near as powerful, though webbed as well.