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Garden Pests

Spring is an exciting time for everyone, but especially gardeners. The time to begin their yearly botanical endeavors is quickly approaching. However, it is not all smooth sailing no matter how skilled of a gardener one is— there are dangers in the form of garden pests lurking around the corner. Garden pests lay in wait for your new plants to begin growing, which when they’ll come out in full force, hungry from winter dormancy. By diligence and taking preventative action, you can stop these pests from wreaking havoc on your garden.

Aphids

Aphids can come in many colors and species, all of which can cause damage to your plants. These pests use their piercing mouthparts to feed on plant sap and juices. They can be found feeding in groups on new plant growth or the undersides of leaves, which kills them, as well as stems and buds. An aphid infestation can actually be exacerbated by over-fertilization with nitrogen. The plants most affected by aphid damage include geraniums, roses, tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, carrot crowns, kale, and cabbage. You can plant certain herbs that will attract wasps, who prey on aphids, to help control an infestation; however, spraying them off with a garden hose is most effective.

Corn Earworms

Corn earworm is a pest that migrates to Michigan every year carried on weather fronts; it overwinters in the southern United States, where it is also a pest of cotton and soybeans. Aptly named, corn earworms feed on ears of fresh corn. These worms are the biggest threat to sweet corn in Michigan because once they enter the ear, they become impossible to remove.

The worms attack corn silk, which results in moldy and deformed ears. Controlling corn earworms can be a difficult task that requires year-round vigilance.

Colorado Potato Beetles

Potato beetles have a yellow shell with ten narrow black stripes. In the spring, the females lay their eggs on the undersides of leaves.

When the larvae hatch, they feed on plant vegetation for 10-30 days before reaching adulthood. Potato beetles continue to feed on the foliage, which leads to the death of the plant. Use a floating row cover on potato plants to prevent these beetles from reaching the plants. Hand pick adults and larvae from the leaves and drop them into a cup of soapy water.

Cucumber Beetle

Cucumber beetles cause severe damage to crops like cucumbers, watermelons, and cantaloupe. These yellow-green beetles don’t limit the extent of their damage to feeding; they also cause bacterial wilt.

The bacterium that causes bacterial wilt lives in the stomachs of the cucumber beetles— in the spring when they emerge to feed, they spread the bacterium from their mouthparts and through their excrement. Once inside, the bacterium quickly multiplies which produces blockages that cause the leaves to wilt and die. The beetles unwittingly pick up the bacteria from the exterior of the plant and transfer it. There is, unfortunately, nothing that can be done to save a plant infected with wilt. Early preventative measures are essential to halt the spread of bacterial wilt. Cover crops with a row cover and remove as plants flower to help control these beetles.

No gardener wants their hard work to be compromised by garden pests. Knowing what to look for is the first step toward protecting the fruits of your labor!

 

 

Shoo, flies!

Contrary to popular belief, there is a variety of species of common flies. In fact, there are over 20,000 in North America alone! While we’d thoroughly enjoy discussing the differences between all of the fly species, we wanted to focus on the two we deal with most regularly— the house fly and the cluster fly.

House Flies

The house fly is by far one of the most common pests we find in and around homes. It has a worldwide distribution and is extremely prominent throughout the US. We consider these insects to be not only nuisance pests while buzzing in and around homes— but they also have the potential to carry diseases. They have relatively brief lifespans; however, they have the ability to quickly reproduce in numbers, leading to large house fly populations if not properly identified and effectively controlled.

House flies are usually grey in color and have four black stripes on their thorax. Adults are about 1/8-1/4 inches long. They have slightly hairy bodies, a single pair of wings and compound red eyes, which contain thousands of individual lenses that give them broader vision. Female house flies are usually larger in size than males and they do not have teeth or a stinger.

Housefly eggs closely resemble grains of rice; these eggs will hatch into larvae, or maggots, that range in size from about ¼-3/8” long. Maggots are cream in color and appear to be greasy. When entering the pupal stage, maggots become dark and develop hard outer shells, as well as legs and wings, ultimately emerging as full-grown adult flies.

Signs of an infestation

The most common sign of a housefly infestation is the physical presence of the flies themselves. You may also see larvae crawling out of their breeding material as they pupate. Along with seeing the insects, people may hear them around the home. House flies produce buzzing sounds which are a result of their two wings beating together.

If you suspect to have a house fly infestation in your home, it is important to contact a licensed pest control professional in order to conduct a proper inspection, specifically looking for any places where house fly eggs deposit. Since house flies enter from the outdoors, internal breeding sites are uncommon. However, garbage rooms and trash compactors provide an ideal environment for house fly breeding and should be routinely checked. If the breeding site(s) are not thoroughly cleaned or removed, the problems with these pests will persist.

Once the breeding site has been remediated, eliminating the existing adult flies is the next step. A pest control professional will develop a treatment plan based on the circumstances of the infestation; this may include the use of fly bait, applications, or traps.

To prevent a house fly infestation from occurring in the first place, vigilant and constant sanitation is a necessity. Regularly removing trash and using adequately sealed garbage receptacles can help to deter any house flies from residing around waste bins. Additionally, pet waste must be taken care of immediately to prevent the development of any further breeding sites. Finally, all doors and windows should have fine mesh screens in order to avoid house flies from entering the home. If screens are already present, make sure there are no visible rips or tears.

Cluster Flies

Cluster flies, on the other hand, are slightly larger and thinner than house flies at 3/8 of an inch in size. They are a dull grey in color (not metallic like some other fly species) with golden hairs on the thorax and a grey checkerboard pattern on the abdomen. When resting, their wings usually overlap over their backs. If you crush cluster flies they may smell sweet, like honey!

These flies have a unique life cycle. The larvae live in soil where they are internal parasites of earthworms. Consequently, structures with large lawns or those near fields are more likely to have problems with overwintering cluster flies. There are four generations a year, but we only consider the late-season adults as pests as they move inside structures in late summer or fall. Adults feed on flowers and are not attracted to garbage, feces or dead animals.

Cluster flies are slow-moving, especially when they become active indoors on warm winter days (when the heat fluctuates) or in early spring as they look for a way outside. They head for light and often end up clustered around windows or in ceiling light fixtures.

We can control cluster flies by creating barriers in mid-to-late-summer to prevent their entry: treatment of the exterior with a repellent residual, as well as pest-proofing of openings, especially around the roofline. It’s critical to time the residual application before fly entry in your area.

Once the flies are inside, control is difficult, and results are often disappointing. Avoid killing them in inaccessible voids because the dead flies can attract beetles. Vacuuming, sticky traps, and light traps can remove wandering flies.

Signs of an infestation

During the cold winter months, cluster flies often congregate around windows or doors on warm days or when the heat is increased, prompting frantic calls for service. Controlling cluster flies indoors can be difficult as populations are frequently hiding in hard-to-reach voids or attics. Indoor insecticide applications are often impractical and result in large numbers of dead flies that are attractive to secondary pests such as carpet beetles. Usually, exclusion is the best solution but should be complete by the early autumn, before the insects make their way indoors.

Completely sealing every entry point is difficult, especially because cluster flies enter near the roofline through soffit or ridge vents. Exterior surface applications of appropriate repellent insecticides can be helpful in deterring them, but applications should be made before aggregations of flies begin to appear on the building. In many cases, we instruct clients to vacuum any carcasses popping up in homes.

No matter the fly, Hogarth’s Pest Control and Wildlife Removal has the skillset to not only curb an infestation but the necessary exclusion and clean-up work required to keep any home fly-free. If you have noticed an issue with house or cluster flies in your home or business, please give us a call. We have been keeping Northern Michigan homes free of these pests for 25 years!

Fruit Flies

If you have seen small flies or gnat-like insects in your kitchen, odds are they are most likely fruit flies. Fruit flies are a year-round issue; however, they are especially common during late summer and fall months. This is primarily because they are most attracted to ripe, fermenting (rotting) fruits and vegetables. Fruit flies have oval bodies with six legs. Adults are about 1/8 inch in size and usually have red eyes. The front section of the body is tan, and the rear part is black. They feed on decaying food items, especially fruits and vegetables.

Melons, tomatoes, grapes, squash, and other perishable items from the garden are often the cause of an indoor infestation. Fruit flies thrive on rotting, unrefrigerated produce from the supermarket as well.

Biology

We find fruit flies most commonly in homes, restaurants, grocery stores, and wherever food can rot. Female fruit flies lay their eggs near the surface of rotting foods or on other moist, organic materials. Upon hatching, the small larvae continue to feed near the surface of the rotting item. This surface-feeding characteristic is significant; the affected over-ripe parts of the vegetables and fruits may be cut away without having to discard the entire piece out of fear of containing any developing larvae. Fruit flies reproduce like wildfire, notorious for laying up to 500 eggs at any given time! The entire lifecycle from egg to adult completes within seven days.  All that is necessary for development is a moist film of fermenting material.

Behavior

Though fruit flies are especially attracted to ripened fruits and vegetables in the kitchen or pantry, they will also breed in trash cans, drains, garbage disposals, empty bottles and cans, mops, and cleaning rags. Infestations can enter the home via previously rotting or fermenting fruits and vegetables, or empty bottles and cans.

That being said, adults can also fly in from outside through windows and doors with inadequate screens. For those who live or work near orchards, even the cleanest home may still experience a fruit fly issue due to all of the rotting fruit. One of the best and most straightforward solutions is to keep a fan blowing at the most frequently used door. This works toward keeping the flies outside because, due to their tiny stature, they are unable to fly against the force of the wind.

This trick actually works with most fly species because they aren’t strong enough to fly against the blowing air. The primary issue associated with fruit flies is that they are nuisance pests. However, their excrement also has the potential to contaminate food with their bacteria and other disease-producing organisms.

Prevention

The most effective method to avoid a fruit fly infestation is to eliminate sources of attraction. Produce should be eaten, discarded, or refrigerated upon ripening. Cracked, bruised, or otherwise damaged portions of fruits and vegetables should be cut away and dumped– especially if eggs or larvae are present in the affected area. A single rotting potato or onion at the back of a pantry or sticky fruit juice under a refrigerator is breeding ground for thousands of fruit flies. In addition, full and unclean trash or recycling bins are also ideal locations.

People who can fruits and vegetables, or make their own beer, cider, or wine should ensure that the containers are well sealed. Otherwise, fruit flies will lay their eggs under the lid, and the tiny larvae will enter the container upon hatching. Equip windows and doors with tight-fitting (16 mesh) screens to help prevent adult fruit flies from entering from outdoors.

Eradication

Once a structure is infested with fruit flies, all potential breeding areas must be located and eliminated. Unless the breeding sites are removed or cleaned, the problem will continue no matter how often one applies insecticides. Finding the source(s) of attraction and breeding can be very challenging and usually will require much thought and persistence. We often suggest personal eradication attempts right off the bat because a small infestation can be easy to nip in the bud. Potential breeding sites that are not easily accessible to humans (i.e., garbage disposals and drains) can be inspected by taping a clear plastic food storage bag over the opening overnight. If flies are breeding in these areas, the adults will emerge and enter the container.

A better approach, however, is to construct a trap by placing a paper funnel (or roll a sheet of notebook paper) into a jar that contains a few ounces of cider vinegar. Place the jar trap(s) wherever fruit flies are buzzing about. This simple but effective trap will soon catch any remaining adult flies which can then be killed or released outdoors.

If you exhaust your personal attempts and still can’t seem to shake a fruit fly problem, Hogarth’s can inspect your property and assist in eradicating the issue completely.