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Winter Flies

It’s a beautiful winter day, and the sunlight is gleaming on the snow. Taking in the view and feeling the warmth of the sun on your face, your attention is drawn to an all-too-familiar sound buzzes by your ear. That’s right— buzzes. There is snow on the ground, but sure enough, there is a fly INSIDE of your house. Eager to get outside, it hurls its large sluggish body against the window. This is not your classic housefly, it’s important to note, but rather a more elusive species. The unwanted houseguest almost went unnoticed. They’re probably around even if you can’t see them!

How do flies survive during winter?

There are too many common fly species to count, and they handle winter in all kinds of ways. Flies associated with filth such as blowflies, fruit flies, and phorid flies tend to live in and around garbage all year. They nestle into the trash in sheltered areas and hunker down to preserve heat during the winter.

Other flies, like face and cluster flies, lay eggs in warm areas during the fall. The flies laying the eggs die off, but their offspring hatch throughout winter. Once they are inside, they continue reproducing— a cycle of laying eggs and hatching. To survive the cooler temperatures and decline in food sources, cluster flies enter the state of diapause to preserve energy and body heat.

What are the flies inside my home?

This winter, the flies most likely to bother you in your home are cluster flies. This species is ubiquitous in Michigan, even during winter. Cluster flies are easy to distinguish as they are big, stocky flies with dark coloration. 

Cluster flies are common around attics, basements, and doors/windows. They seek secluded places near a heat source where they can pack together and enter a state of rest called diapause. They occasionally emerge on warm days to regain heat and energy. They will often appear slow-flying and sluggish, “drunk” if you will.

How do these flies enter my home?

Cluster flies find their way inside of homes in the late summer and fall months. They quite literally cluster together in large groups on the sides of walls to soak up the warmth of the sun. As temperatures lower, the flies look for cracks and gaps they can use to stay out of the wind. These cracks may often lead them into your home, either behind the walls or in attics and basements. Common access points include cracks under the windows or door trim, baseboards, and around lights, fans, or other utility appliances.

What do flies want?

Without warmth and shelter, cluster flies can’t survive Michigan’s freezing temperatures. Most common flies can’t hibernate, either, which means they need shelter and food access. If you have a fly infestation, it means your home likely provides both of these. Cluster flies look for warm, secluded areas where they can remain in diapause for long stretches of time. They eat little and do not reproduce or cause any real damage during this time. The only times they may show themselves are on sunny days. 

How can I get rid of them?

Admittedly, cluster flies are rather difficult to control in winter. This is because they are already inside the walls. If you seal their access points now, you will trap them in your walls. That could potentially create a mess and attract other, even less desirable pests. Upon the arrival of spring’s consistently warm temperatures, cluster flies will leave your home to warm up outside. This does not always mean through their original access point, though, so don’t be surprised if you see/hear many live flies. Vacuuming up any deceased is the best method of disposing of. ‌

On the bright side, albeit a nuisance, flies aren’t really that big of a deal. At worst, consider them an annoyance. Even if cluster flies are just an annoyance, the bad news is that they’re still… annoying.

Pest-Free Christmas

The Christmas season is officially underway! Black Friday is over, and shopping has formally begun. This time of year is for chestnuts roasting on an open fire and Jack Frost nipping at your nose. So, turn up the Christmas music, hang up the lights, decorate the tree, and take in all that makes Christmas the ‘most wonderful time of the year’. However, while you’re at it, consider taking a couple of steps to keep this Christmas season pest-free.

Tips for Before Christmas 

  • If you’re like most, this is the time of year you’re going to bring in boxes of decorations from storage. If you store your Christmas lights, ornaments, and other items in cardboard boxes, you might have a guest stop in for a visit. Many insects like to get into stored cardboard boxes, and a few rodents as well. Be aware that bringing a package in from a shed, garage, or any other outbuilding could potentially bring unwanted guests into your home. Consider thoroughly checking before bringing any boxes or bins indoors.
  • Pests can also enter your home hitched to a Christmas tree. Spiders can lay eggs in trees, and when those eggs are warmed inside your home, they may hatch into dozens of baby spiders. To be safe, give that tree a fair shake before setting it up.
  • No holiday is complete without lots of food. Make sure you check all of the packages you purchase at the store to ensure there are no holes or rips, preventing unwanted insects from gaining access to your pantry.

After Christmas

  • Once the festivities are over, it’s time pack everything away. Consider storing items in plastic totes rather than cardboard boxes. Bins will keep them safe from mold, mildew, dust, and even pests during the year and prevent any surprises for the next.
  • When you’re storing things away, be sure to check for any nesting material in your garage or attic. This is the season when mice are most likely to invade these places for the winter. Mouse nests look like pieces of fabric, insulation, cotton, cardboard, and other obviously collected materials.

If you find signs of pests this Christmas season, or you would like us to assist in preventing all of the many creatures that can invade your home this time of year, Hogarth’s Pest Control is happy to help. Give us a call today! Happy Holidays from our family to yours.

Make Halloween Safe Again

Halloween spending has skyrocketed in recent years. The National Retail Federation has stated that “Americans are expected to spend $2.7 billion on Halloween decorations this year”.

In turn, wildlife organizations say they have also seen an increase in animal visits to local rehabilitation centers for injuries related to outdoor holiday decorations.

Halloween any other holiday in which homeowners decorate the exteriors of their houses is particularly dangerous for wildlife populations. Anything that hangs, flutters, or loops can be potential hazards. Increased human activity and scattered candy wrappers during Halloween can also put animals at risk.

We want to share some easy ways you can help make sure this Halloween isn’t a scary one for wildlife!

Keeping Wildlife Safe on Halloween

  • Limit the use of fake spiderweb or other decorations made of entangling fibers. Wild animals can easily become unable to break the material to free themselves.
  • Avoid decorations with loops and circles. A foraging animal can unknowingly put its head through a loop or circle and choke.
  • Avoid decorations with edible-looking parts.
  • Don’t leave candy where wildlife may find it, always being sure to dispose of candy wrappers.
  • Carved pumpkins may also be attractive to wildlife as food, so properly dispose of them to avoid unwanted, post-holiday trick-or-treaters.
  • Be on the look for nocturnal wildlife while out trick-or-treating. Avoid cutting through lawns and brushy areas to avoid accidental encounters.
  • Drivers on Halloween night know to be alert for children; however, we encourage you to keep an eye out for wildlife that may be scared out by all the increased nighttime activity.
  • Strings of lights can become snare traps for adult male deer who get them caught in their antlers. As a result, avoid hanging lights or decorations in areas where deer pass.

 

Wildlife is not the only at-risk critters this Halloween. It is important to be mindful of household pets, too!

Tips for Keeping Household Pets Safe on Halloween

Stash your treats.

The candy bowl is for trick-or-treaters, not the household dog. Several popular Halloween treats are highly toxic to pets. Chocolate in any form—especially dark or baking chocolate—can be very dangerous for cats and dogs; candies labeled ‘sugar-free’ contain the sugar substitute xylitol which can cause serious problems in animals. 

Watch decorations and keep wires out of reach.

While a jack-o-lantern is certainly festive, pets can easily knock over a lit pumpkin and start a fire. That being said, curious kittens are especially at risk of getting hurt by candle flames. Popular Halloween plants such as pumpkins and corn are relatively nontoxic but have the ability to produce stomach discomfort in pets who snack on them.

Be mindful of costumes.

For some pets wearing a costume can become stressful. If you do decide to dress up your pet, be sure the costume does not limit his or her sight, ability to breathe, move, bark, or meow. Check the costume carefully for easily chewed-off pieces that could become a choking hazard. Poorly fitting outfits can become twisted on external objects and result in injury.

Be sure to try on the costume before the event; however, if they seem distressed or show abnormal behaviors, consider foregoing.

Keep pets easily identifiable.

Halloween brings exciting activity with visitors arriving at the door; overstimulation and strangers can often become scary and stressful for pets. Even the most social animals should be kept away from the door during trick-or-treating hours. While opening the door, be sure that your pet doesn’t dart out. Always make sure your pet is wearing proper identification!

 

The main goal of Halloween along with any other holiday you decorate for is to have fun. It is important, however, to always be mindful of how we affect those around us— animals too!

“Halloween Home Decor Can Hurt Wildlife, Officials Warn.” WDRB, 17 Oct. 2019, www.wdrb.com/news/national/halloween-home-decor-can-hurt-wildlife-officials-warn/article_fd700df2-f100-11e9-8162-47f987f12c4e.html.

Controlling Whiteflies

All whiteflies suffer from somewhat of an identity crisis, as they are not flies at all. Their tiny, white appearance resembles moths, but they are, in fact, most closely related to sap-sucking aphids. Aphid-cast skins are easily mistaken for that of the whitefly, but whiteflies will quickly fly away if disturbed.

The fact that they hide on the undersides of the leaves, coupled with a quick flight pattern, makes them challenging to manage. Whiteflies are also fruitful because their numbers rapidly increase from two to four, four becomes eight, eight becomes 16, and so on. During the hottest weeks of summer, whiteflies may mature from the egg stage to a reproductive adult in as little as 16 days.

Damage

Whiteflies cause two types of damage to a plant, the first being direct. Whiteflies seriously injure plants by extracting juices from them, causing leaves to yellow, wither, and fall early. If the number of whiteflies per leaf is significant enough, it could lead to plant death. The second, or indirect, happens by way of adult whiteflies. They are able to transmit several viruses from diseased plants to healthy through their mouthparts.

Whiteflies (again like aphids) excrete “honeydew,” which is a sweet substance that forms a sticky coating on leaves. A fungus called “sooty mold” also quickly colonizes, which makes leaves look dirty. Generally speaking, sooty mold is harmless except when it is incredibly expansive, thus preventing light from reaching the surfaces of leaves, which stresses the plant. Sooty mold washes off easily with a forceful stream of water on sturdy plants.

Detection

Like many insects, whiteflies have nymphal and adult stages. Females lay their eggs in arcs or circles on the underside of the leaves that they spend their entire life cycle on. Whitefly nymphs have wingless, oval bodies and no apparent legs or antennae. The adults that emerge from mature larvae are winged and look like a very tiny moth.

Prevention

  • Attract beneficial enemies to your garden.
    • Plant a wide variety of flowering plants or individual insectary plants can provide beneficial insects with the habitats they require. Natural enemies of whiteflies are spiders, small birds, lacewings, ladybugs, and big-eyed bugs.
  • Scrutinize new plants. Make sure you aren’t purchasing infected plants.
  • One way to detect an invasion early is to hang sticky traps above the plants at the beginning of the season.
  • Use slow-release, organic fertilizers.
    • Maintain healthy plant growth, but make sure you do not over-fertilize with high nitrogen fertilizers. Too much nitrogen can overstimulate lush plant growth, prompting aphids to reproduce more quickly. Organic fertilizers are superior because they slowly release the proper levels of nutrients.
  • Avoid excessive pruning
  • This stimulates whitefly-attracting growth.
  • Use a row cover to exclude whitefly and other pests while still allowing light, air, and water to reach all plants.
  • Control ants by painting or spraying a 4″ wide sticky barrier around woody shrubs or trees.
    • For many sensitive trees, such as citrus, apply a protective barrier of white latex paint to the trunk before the sticky wall.

Less-Toxic Control

  • Use a syringe of water on the undersides of leaves on sturdy plants to wash off whiteflies and honeydew.
  • Use a vacuum to suck up whiteflies in the early morning when they are cold and slow-moving.
    • After vacuuming, empty into a sealed plastic bag and remove it from the premise.
  • Prune away any severely infested portions of the plant.
    • Place and seal material in bags and remove them from the premise.
    • Dispose properly and do not compost.
  • Use insecticidal soaps to kill whiteflies while causing the least harm to beneficial insects.
    • Even coverage of the underside of leaves is essential for effective use. These products do not leave toxic residues, sparing injury to the natural enemies.
  • Use spray (horticultural) oils to control whiteflies minimizing adverse effects on natural enemies.
  • To protect bees, avoid applying imidacloprid during the period one month before or during bloom. Removing blossoms before they open on young trees will prevent honey bee exposure to imidacloprid in the nectar/pollen.

COVID-19

As of March 24th at 12:01 AM, Michigan is under a “Stay Home, Stay Safe” executive order due to the COVID-19 pandemic. This order will last 21 days, at least, and will significantly affect many of our resident’s lives. This has caused many of our residents to fall into somewhat of a panic (hello, toilet paper shortage). Many of you have asked how this affects the services we provide, especially as spring progresses and more critters awaken from their long winter’s nap. That being said, there are a few items we would like to address; hopefully, this will clear up any confusion you may have before making a call.

According to the executive order, businesses deemed as essential can continue to operate; even as more quarantines and restrictions are put in place. Both the National Pest Management Association and Michigan Pest Management Association firmly believe that structural pest control is an essential industry; one that must continue to provide the valuable services we offer during the COVID-19 pandemic. These services protect our customers from not only emotional distress but more importantly, from an array of diseases. However, despite operating as usual, the questions do not stop there, and for a good reason!

There are many questions surrounding COVID-19, including how it spreads. With spring progressing, there have been concerns about potential disease transmission from insects. It is imperative to note that COVID-19 does not spread via pests. While the most accurate and up-to-date resource for information on COVID-19 remains the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, we’ll dive deeper into the differences between common vector-borne diseases and various coronaviruses to help dispel any myths about transmission.

What are Vector Pests?

Vector pests such as mosquitoes and ticks play significant roles in the transmission of many serious diseases. Worldwide, mosquitoes are the leading vector pests responsible for the transfer of infections to humans. They are responsible for spreading malaria, West Nile virus, Zika virus, Eastern equine encephalitis (EEE), yellow fever, and others. Ticks are responsible for the transmission of Lyme disease, the most common vector-borne infection in the United States; as well as many others such as Rocky Mountain spotted fever, ehrlichiosis, babesiosis, and anaplasmosis.

What are Coronaviruses?

Coronaviruses, which are common to humans, are well-known causes of the common cold and flu and were first identified in the 1960s. There are four main subgroups of human coronaviruses; they mainly transmit through contact with the bodily fluids of an infected person. This is done by simple acts such as coughing and sneezing. Droplets, often microscopic, from the infected person are inhaled by someone nearby (usually within a three to six-foot radius); also via contact with a contaminated surface— such as one that was just coughed or sneezed upon, then inadvertently touching one’s face or eyes; or by something as simple as sharing an eating utensil. This is why it is imperative to wash hands and refrain from touching our faces during this time.

How is COVID-19 Different From Other Coronaviruses?

Middle East Respiratory Syndrome (MERS), Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome (SARS), and now COVID-19 are zoonotic coronaviruses– meaning they are viruses that have jumped the species barrier from their regular animal hosts to humans (Think Bird and Swine flu). This happens through direct contact with an infected animal, as well as indirect contact or eating contaminated food. Zoonotic diseases are also prevalent, and once they transmit to humans, they continue to spread through person-to-person contact as well. This makes proper handwashing and other preventative actions outlined by the CDC paramount to public safety.

Can Pets Contract Coronavirus?

Dogs and cats can contract certain types of coronaviruses, such as the canine respiratory coronavirus, but we believe this specific coronavirus to not be a health threat to pets.  The CDC says that “while this virus seems to have emerged from an animal source, it is now spreading from person-to-person.” The CDC also states that “there is no reason to think that any animals or pets in the United States might be a source of infection with this novel coronavirus.” Fortunately for pet owners, the virus survives best on smooth surfaces, such as countertops and doorknobs. Porous materials, such as pet fur, tend to absorb and trap pathogens, making it harder to contract them through touch.

While the world is in an uproar unlike any we’ve seen, rest easy that we are doing as much as we can to ensure the protection of your home. We have received training in the use of proper PPE (personal protective equipment); as well as practicing proper hygiene to cut back on the spread of any germs. So, if during this 21 day period you hear/see any unwelcome guests around your home (in-laws not included) please do not hesitate to call. Remember: no question is a stupid question, and we look forward to answering yours!

AKC Staff. “Can Dogs Get Coronavirus?” American Kennel Club, American Kennel Club, 20 Mar. 2020, www.akc.org/expert-advice/news/can-dogs-get-coronavirus/.

“Animals and Coronavirus Disease 2019 (COVID-19).” Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, 16 Mar. 2020, www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/prepare/animals.html.

Fall Fruit Fly Tips

There’s so much to love about the early fall months; fresh apples, donuts and cider, flowers, colorful hikes, camping, and so much more— however, one of the most significant negatives of the first warm fall months is fruit flies. We’ve written about these nuisances before, but the continued warm temperatures in Northern Michigan have seemingly allowed infestations to maintain. And if you’re like us, you love the goodness of having fresh fruit available and that glass of wine to enjoy without the hassle of these aggressive pests, so, we thought we would offer some DIY methods in curbing the seemingly endless issue.

Unfortunately for homeowners, the average natural life span of fruit fly adults (in optimal temperatures) is forty to fifty days. Females have the capability to mate and lay several batches of eggs in that time, which allows the fruit fly population inside of a home to multiply quickly.

Now, many commercial traps can aid in ridding your home of them, and we even offer them to customers. That being said, there are also some natural and effective remedies that you can do by using goodies found in your pantry that’s inexpensive and effective.

Keep in mind, however, that to curb an infestation, it is imperative to start at the source. Ensuring any houseplants you may have are potted in high-quality soil, maintaining clean drains, keeping all areas dry, washing dirty dishes, and keeping trash receptacles tightly closed are all effective methods. If these efforts remain unsuccessful, it may be time to seek out other options.

Below, we’ll share some at-home methods that are proven effective if you’re experiencing a visit with those pesky rascals.

Apple Cider Vinegar

ACV is genuinely a heaven send for attracting fruit flies. They absolutely cannot stay away from it. Mixing the vinegar with a few drops of dish soap is a timeless method in trapping and killing the flies.

Essential Oils & Herbs

Basil, peppermint, and eucalyptus are a few of the herbs that help to deter fruit flies. Placing these in tea bags or muslin sacks and hanging them around the house can help to prevent them.

Lavender, camphor, (be very cautious with this one), peppermint, clove, and lemongrass essential oils deter fruit flies as well. They simply can’t stand the smell. Dab some cotton balls and wipe the oils around the home, especially in the kitchen area, and deter them all while making your home smell naturally amazing. Another method is dipping tea bags into essential oil blends and hanging around the home.

Beer & Wine

It’s no wonder why these pests like a good glass now and then. Fruit flies are lushes of a sort and love the smell of red wine, and it will draw them in very rapidly! So, a small glass of leftover wine used to trap them, similar to the apple cider vinegar method, works exceptionally well with attracting, trapping, and killing the fruit flies. Beer is a close second, which is no wonder why you will find hoards of them buzzing around your recycling. The same method words for beer as well, so whichever beverage you have handy should do the trick.

Fruits

Place jam, jellies, or ripened fruit (especially bananas) into a jar covered with plastic wrap to attract the fruit flies.

Incense

Fruit flies hate all smoke but especially smoke from incense—their bodies can’t handle inhaling it. When they inhale, they die fairly quickly, which can help leave you fruit fly-free.

Closing Tips

Keeping fresh fruit refrigerated, reducing any standing water including in vases, as fruit flies are attracted to the sugar water in most flower arrangements, and getting rid of any rotting fruit (the yeast is where they lay their larvae).

If all else fails, there is hope on the horizon as fall progresses. Studies show that at 60°F, the lifespan of fruit flies significantly decreases. When the temperatures fall below 53°F, these flies stop developing entirely. While the first frost may not seem like something to look forward to for many of us, those experiencing a fruit fly infestation can rest assured that these unwanted houseguests will soon be gone— until next year, that is!

How to Avoid Fall Pests

Fall pests can be a real mood-wrecker. Cold weather brings everyone indoors, including some of the more undesirable houseguests. Snuggling up on the sofa with a pair of fuzzy slippers and a blanket wrapped around your shoulders can be a comforting feeling— until something scurries across the living room floor.

Unfortunately, your family may not be the only ones enjoying the warmth of your home. Pests such as mice, cockroaches, flies, and certain species of spiders have life cycles that last longer than a year; meaning they must find shelter during the winter months to survive. Apart from being creepy-crawly, these pests can pose serious risks to both people and homes.

When making their nests in walls, rodents often chew on drywall and electrical wires, and they are known to pass on diseases including Hantavirus and salmonella. Cockroaches will leave droppings around the home, contaminate stored food, and, especially in children, can even trigger asthma. On top of it all, some spiders commonly found in and around homes are poisonous.

Below are ten pest-proofing tips that every homeowner can follow to more effectively keep pests outside during the fall and winter:

  1. Installing screens on attic vents and openings to chimneys, as well as keeping an eye on any other areas where the home may be open to the elements, such as animal doors and mail slots.
  2. Keep attics, crawl spaces, and basements dry and well-ventilated. Pests are attracted to areas with an abundance of moisture, which is something they need to survive. Running dehumidifiers in garages and basements will help to keep these areas dry.
  3. Caulk and seal any noticeable cracks and crevices on the outside of the home. Be especially mindful of the areas where utility pipes enter the structure. Keep in mind that many rodents can fit through a dime-sized hole.
  4. Keep kitchen counters clean, dispose of garbage regularly in sealed receptacles, and store food in airtight containers. A buildup of trash and crumbs are an attractant to pests scavenging for a bite to eat. We recommend properly cleaning up and disposing of all waste after meals and to ensure garbage cans remain closed when they are stored inside of the home or outbuilding.
  5. Replacing weather-stripping and repairing loose mortar around the foundation and windows is another means. Both are simple ways to keep not only pests but also cold air from entering the home.
  6. Keep shrubbery well-trimmed and store firewood at least 20 feet away from the house. By merely removing areas where pests can hide near your home, you can significantly reduce the chance of them finding a way ins.
  7. Install door sweeps and always repair damaged screens. Cracks under doors and torn window screens are ideal entry points for most household pests. When you open a window with a damaged screen, you are likely allowing more than just fresh air to enter.
  8. Inspect items such as package deliveries, boxes of decorations, and grocery bags before bringing them inside. Pests often find creative ways to enter a home. Shake out and thoroughly inspect anything that has been left or stored outside or in the garage.
  9. Avoid leaving pet dishes outdoors for prolonged periods. Pests will not discriminate between cat food and human food. Dishes that have been left sitting outside are extremely attractive to all kinds of rodents and insects.
  10. Have and maintain a proper drainage system on the exterior of your home. Installing gutters or making repairs an existing system will help to draw water and moisture away from your home, which prevents any leaks or build-up that may attract unwanted houseguests (is not effective for in-laws, though!).

Following these pest-proofing tips in the fall when the temperature begins to drop is the most effective way to protect your home and prevent any pest infestation during the winter months. However, if you think you have a pre-existing pest infestation, be sure to contact a pest control or wildlife professional to assess the situation.

BMSB

The brown marmorated stink bug, otherwise abbreviated as BMSB, is an invasive species; as it was introduced to the US from Eastern Asia in the mid-90s. It is also known as the East Asian or yellow-brown stink bug. The BMSB was first collected in the United States in Allentown, PA in the fall of 1996, but was not identified until years later in 2001. From there, it quickly spread east. Today, BMSB has been identified in 44 states including Washington DC. The stink bug’s native range includes China, Japan, Korea, and Taiwan.

Stink Bug Odor

BMSB is aptly named by the odor they emit when they feel threatened. It is thought that this odor aids in protecting against predators. The bugs produce the smelly chemical in a gland on their abdomen. Some species can actually spray the several chemical inches. The smell has often been compared to potent herbs like cilantro.

Interestingly enough, the composition of the odor is comprised of chemicals commonly used as food additives and is actually present in cilantro. This smell can linger for hours so it is in your best interest to try to avoid the bugs or carefully sweep or vacuum them up if they have entered your house.

Physical Attributes

Stink bugs are characterized in several different ways. They are described as “large and oval-shaped” and “shield-shaped”. Adult BMSB can reach almost 2 cm in length and are almost as wide as they are long. Their legs extend from their sides, which makes adult bugs appear even larger. The BMSB is brownish in color with lighter bands on their antennae and darker bands on their wings.

Adult stink bugs are strong fliers and fold their wings on top of their body when they land. The wings of nymphs are not fully developed but they do appear as they become an adult. Mature wings are an identifier of adults.

The nymphs are very tiny when they first hatch and are yellow and red in color. As they mature the yellow fades to white. Nymphs have bright red eyes during this stage of their lifecycle. They molt or shed their skin 5 times as they mature. Nymphs become larger each time they molt. By their final molt, the nymphs are almost as large as adult stink bugs.

Habits

In general, adult BMSB feed on fruits and the nymphs feed on leaves, stems, and fruit. The life cycle of BMSB typically involves mating, then reproducing, and feeding from the spring months to late the fall. Upon the cold temperatures, stink bugs seek shelter to spend the winter in a dormant phase known as ‘diapause’.

BMSB search for overwintering sites in late fall before the weather conditions change drastically.  They spend the winter in diapause inside homes or buildings, usually within the walls, attics or crawl spaces. However, diapause may not be the total competition of their season. If the weather warms up for long enough, overwintering stink bugs may be misled in thinking it is time to exit diapause and become active once again. Stink bugs will then reemerge in early spring and become active.

BMSB mate and create up to 3 generations per year depending on their habitat. Colder areas only see one generation each year, whereas warmer areas will likely see two or three. Stink bug females typically lay 20 to 30 eggs. These eggs are light green and barrel-shaped, attached side-by-side in a mass on the underside of a host plant’s leaves. The eggs will hatch within four to five days and from there the nymphs will begin to feed.

Signs of an Infestation

In most cases, homeowners will first detect stink bugs by their large invasions in the fall months. Finding large numbers of living or dead stink bugs is also a sign of an infestation. Stink bugs will show themselves on sunny sides of homes where they enjoy warming themselves. Farmers often detect an infestation by the damage caused to their crops.

Threats

The BMSB cannot sting and is also unlikely to bite humans or animals. The stink bug’s mouthparts are grouped into the piercing/sucking category, but they do not use blood as a food source like mosquitoes, bed bugs, or biting flies. Their mouths are not structured in a manner that allows them to bite through human skin.

Stink bugs are relatively harmless to humans, though they do have the potential to spread throughout the country. This could result in harm to the agricultural industry, as they destroy crops. BMSB can cause damage to fruit trees, ornamental plants, and gardens, but they are more of a nuisance pest than an actual threat to humans. They do not spread disease or cause structural damage.

To avoid a potential infestation of these pests, proper exclusion is of the utmost importance. Hogarth’s is well-versed in varying types of exclusion for residential and commercial properties. We will seal entrance holes around pipes, windows, ridge vent and soffits. It is important to note that exclusion alone will not always fix the issue; the home will need to be treated to keep every BMSB away from the structure. Call us today!

Shoo, flies!

Contrary to popular belief, there is a variety of species of common flies. In fact, there are over 20,000 in North America alone! While we’d thoroughly enjoy discussing the differences between all of the fly species, we wanted to focus on the two we deal with most regularly— the house fly and the cluster fly.

House Flies

The house fly is by far one of the most common pests we find in and around homes. It has a worldwide distribution and is extremely prominent throughout the US. We consider these insects to be not only nuisance pests while buzzing in and around homes— but they also have the potential to carry diseases. They have relatively brief lifespans; however, they have the ability to quickly reproduce in numbers, leading to large house fly populations if not properly identified and effectively controlled.

House flies are usually grey in color and have four black stripes on their thorax. Adults are about 1/8-1/4 inches long. They have slightly hairy bodies, a single pair of wings and compound red eyes, which contain thousands of individual lenses that give them broader vision. Female house flies are usually larger in size than males and they do not have teeth or a stinger.

Housefly eggs closely resemble grains of rice; these eggs will hatch into larvae, or maggots, that range in size from about ¼-3/8” long. Maggots are cream in color and appear to be greasy. When entering the pupal stage, maggots become dark and develop hard outer shells, as well as legs and wings, ultimately emerging as full-grown adult flies.

Signs of an infestation

The most common sign of a housefly infestation is the physical presence of the flies themselves. You may also see larvae crawling out of their breeding material as they pupate. Along with seeing the insects, people may hear them around the home. House flies produce buzzing sounds which are a result of their two wings beating together.

If you suspect to have a house fly infestation in your home, it is important to contact a licensed pest control professional in order to conduct a proper inspection, specifically looking for any places where house fly eggs deposit. Since house flies enter from the outdoors, internal breeding sites are uncommon. However, garbage rooms and trash compactors provide an ideal environment for house fly breeding and should be routinely checked. If the breeding site(s) are not thoroughly cleaned or removed, the problems with these pests will persist.

Once the breeding site has been remediated, eliminating the existing adult flies is the next step. A pest control professional will develop a treatment plan based on the circumstances of the infestation; this may include the use of fly bait, applications, or traps.

To prevent a house fly infestation from occurring in the first place, vigilant and constant sanitation is a necessity. Regularly removing trash and using adequately sealed garbage receptacles can help to deter any house flies from residing around waste bins. Additionally, pet waste must be taken care of immediately to prevent the development of any further breeding sites. Finally, all doors and windows should have fine mesh screens in order to avoid house flies from entering the home. If screens are already present, make sure there are no visible rips or tears.

Cluster Flies

Cluster flies, on the other hand, are slightly larger and thinner than house flies at 3/8 of an inch in size. They are a dull grey in color (not metallic like some other fly species) with golden hairs on the thorax and a grey checkerboard pattern on the abdomen. When resting, their wings usually overlap over their backs. If you crush cluster flies they may smell sweet, like honey!

These flies have a unique life cycle. The larvae live in soil where they are internal parasites of earthworms. Consequently, structures with large lawns or those near fields are more likely to have problems with overwintering cluster flies. There are four generations a year, but we only consider the late-season adults as pests as they move inside structures in late summer or fall. Adults feed on flowers and are not attracted to garbage, feces or dead animals.

Cluster flies are slow-moving, especially when they become active indoors on warm winter days (when the heat fluctuates) or in early spring as they look for a way outside. They head for light and often end up clustered around windows or in ceiling light fixtures.

We can control cluster flies by creating barriers in mid-to-late-summer to prevent their entry: treatment of the exterior with a repellent residual, as well as pest-proofing of openings, especially around the roofline. It’s critical to time the residual application before fly entry in your area.

Once the flies are inside, control is difficult, and results are often disappointing. Avoid killing them in inaccessible voids because the dead flies can attract beetles. Vacuuming, sticky traps, and light traps can remove wandering flies.

Signs of an infestation

During the cold winter months, cluster flies often congregate around windows or doors on warm days or when the heat is increased, prompting frantic calls for service. Controlling cluster flies indoors can be difficult as populations are frequently hiding in hard-to-reach voids or attics. Indoor insecticide applications are often impractical and result in large numbers of dead flies that are attractive to secondary pests such as carpet beetles. Usually, exclusion is the best solution but should be complete by the early autumn, before the insects make their way indoors.

Completely sealing every entry point is difficult, especially because cluster flies enter near the roofline through soffit or ridge vents. Exterior surface applications of appropriate repellent insecticides can be helpful in deterring them, but applications should be made before aggregations of flies begin to appear on the building. In many cases, we instruct clients to vacuum any carcasses popping up in homes.

No matter the fly, Hogarth’s Pest Control and Wildlife Removal has the skillset to not only curb an infestation but the necessary exclusion and clean-up work required to keep any home fly-free. If you have noticed an issue with house or cluster flies in your home or business, please give us a call. We have been keeping Northern Michigan homes free of these pests for 25 years!

Mice in Michigan

In recent years, rodent populations have seemingly increased. Mice in particular are common household pests that can become an out-of-control problem if not nipped in the bud. They multiply quickly and in great numbers; two can turn into twenty within weeks. While unaggressive, these rodents can cause quite a scare for homeowners and an infestation can lead to health problems along with potential fire hazards from their tendency to gnaw on electrical wires. Mice control requires three methods of defense: trapping and removing, baiting from the exterior, and exclusion…but more on those later! In Michigan we have 4 species: white-footed, house, deer, and field. It is important to properly identify which type of mouse we are dealing with before eradication, as each species comes with their own set of preferences and tendencies.

“How do mice get in my home?”, you may ask. Mice are notorious gnawers, and will chew their way into virtually any structure; including homes, cabins, restaurants, hotels, factories, nursing homes, hospitals, food processing plants, commercial kitchens, RV’s, air conditioning units, heat pumps, outbuildings, and airplanes. Mice chew through window and door seals, and are known to damage weather stripping.They can squeeze through holes as small as a dime!  Really there is no structure a mouse won’t chew its way into if given the chance.

Remediating an Existing Issue

There are three methods of defense to remediate and/or prevent future infestations from occurring; trapping and removing, baiting from the exterior, and exclusion. If the inside of your home is deemed to be infested by a licensed pest control professional, the mice must be trapped and removed by using various traps.  Snap traps and glue boards work well to catch mice on the interior as we will not and do not recommend that poisons are used inside. Using bait inside will cause the mice to die inside, creating a whole new problem.

Bait stations are set around the exterior of the structure so that the mice outdoors will be lured in. Our bait stations are designed to be the strongest on the market so that problems aren’t created with non-target animals, and pet safety is one of our biggest concerns. The stations are tamper-proof, weighted, and locked to ensure the bait is protected. We also scan our stations for digital data tracking. Exclusion is the process of sealing any cracks or holes around the exterior of a structure to prevent mice from squeezing through.

Hazards

While the mice themselves will not cause harm as they do not generally bite unless held. The real threat comes from the health problems they can cause. Mice are known to carry parasites, and their waste can cause diseases such as salmonellosis and hantavirus. Hantavirus is particularly threatening because it lives in feces and when disturbed becomes airborne. The virus can be contracted by so much as breathing in contaminated dust from nests and/or droppings, so it is important to call a licensed pest control professional for proper remediation and clean-up. If you believe to have come across a mouse nest in your home, do not touch it! During the professional clean-up, every effort will be made to avoid stirring up any dust as well as a respirator to ensure there is no inhalation.

Tips to Prevent an Infestation

  1. Eliminate food sources
    1. Proper storage of food sources in pantries, cupboards, and especially in garages can help to prevent mice from chewing their way in to access. Airtight containers and storing food off of the floor will also be helpful.
  2. Safeguard your garbage
    1. By storing your outdoor garbage in a contained space such as a tin lidded bin, rodents will be unable to access.
  3. Carefully tend your vegetable garden
    1. Any leftover fruits or vegetables are an attractant to mice foraging for food. Mice are omnivorous, which means they eat both plants, meat, fruits, seeds, and grains.
  4. Block entry points
    1. If you come across cracks or holes around the exterior of a structure, you may block them. Keep in mind any mice trapped inside may perish and cause a disturbing odor.
  5. Reduce clutter
    1. Reducing clutter creates less spaces to hide, nest, and travel. Mice are extremely resourceful and will use just about anything as nesting material. In homes, clutter is often found in attics, basements, and garages, the same sites of most mouse infestations.
  6. Protect your pool
    1. Pools are essentially giant water bowls for mice, who can easily fall in and drown. It is not uncommon to find deceased rodents in pools and jacuzzis. Always cover these when not in use!

By taking these steps, homeowners are able to make their property less appealing to mice and other rodents. The more you know, the more effectively we can work together.  If you believe to have found evidence of mice in your home do not hesitate to give us a call. We have been keeping homes in Northern Michigan mouse-free for 25 years! We look forward to solving your problem. 

All About Stinging Insects

Bees, wasps, yellow jackets and hornets are one of the most common pest control issues we deal with at Hogarth’s Pest Control. Stinging insects are often unwelcome summer guests, nesting on homes, in trees, under decks and even underground. Though all stinging insects have multiple similarities, each have individual qualities that differentiate them.

Yellow Jackets

What many confuses as “bee stings” are actually stings from yellow jackets. Yellow jackets are the most aggressive of the stinging insects and typically nest underground. If you notice flying insects coming from an underground burrow, it is most likely yellow jackets and should be taken care of by a professional. Colonies can contain thousands of yellow jackets and can be easily provoked. Yellow jackets can also sting multiple times. All of our technicians are equipped with a bee-suit and protective equipment to combat even the worst type of nests. We highly suggest avoiding yellow jacket nests and calling Hogarth’s at the first sign of an issue.

Paper Wasps and Hornets

Bald Faced Hornets Nest
Bald Faced Hornets Nest

Paper wasps and hornets also form colonies but nest above ground, unlike yellow jackets. Both can inflict extremely painful, sometimes paralyzing stings. Their nests can be commonly found under decks, steps, and railings but are also built in trees and bushes. Nests can grow from a baseball to basketball-size in just days. Most customers aren’t even aware they have a nest until being stung. We suggest carefully inspecting areas around your home where paper wasps and hornets are likely to nest, especially if you have small children or pets.

Bees

Bumblebees are usually easy to distinguish based on their larger size. Their colonies are much smaller than other stinging insects, usually with only 100 individuals. Like yellow jackets, bumblebees can sting multiple times.

Honeybees are the gentlest type of stinging insect and typically nest in hollowed out trees or in homes where there is some type of cavity or opening. Honeybees only sting as a last resort, usually sacrificing their life to protect their colony. When it stings, the stinger rips from its body and the bee dies. We do not want to harm honeybees and instead refer clients with honeybees to our local beekeeper.

Combating Stinging Insects

Prevention is key to protecting your home from unwanted stinging insects. The best method is via exterior spray on the home to prevent bees, wasps, hornets and yellow jackets from building nests on your structure. We also offer individual nest removals, but preventing nests from being re-built can only be done by treating the home. We strongly suggest having a professional take care of these issues as they can be dangerous and can cause further issues if not handled properly.

Call Hogarth’s with all of your stinging insect needs, and be sure to prevent problems before they occur!

Spiders and Web Sweeping

spiderOne of the main pest issues in Northern Michigan and the Upper Peninsula is spiders, their webs, and the droppings they leave on homes and businesses. In most cases, spiders only need to be treated from the exterior of the home. This prevents them from building webs and getting inside. We include a web sweeping service with our spider spray treatment. We use poles and extensions to reach webs and nests in the high peaks of your home. Removing the webs along with an exterior spray can make a huge difference for your home. This spray also prevents against other crawling insects and bees, wasps, and hornets.

There’s often a misconception that power washing the home will reduce a spider and web problem. This is an added cost that isn’t needed on a regular basis. Our annual spring treatment will cut down on the cost of an extra service, as well as reduce the number of insects in and around your home. However if you power wash your home, it is important to do so before a spider treatment as it will wash the product off the structure.

Perimeter spraying the outside of a structure is the best way to prevent against spiders and other insects and to control the amount of webbing. However, if you seem to have an abundance of spiders inside your home we do offer an interior treatment. This will rid the inside of your home from the spiders currently there, while the exterior treatment will prevent them from getting inside in the future.

We begin our spring treatments as soon as the snow melts! Be sure to call us right away to get on the schedule and have your home treated as soon as possible.